Bah Help!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
Tapping starter was not the suggstion.
Following those wires from starter, because they are the fusible links, was my suggestion.
Your ride may have a cover under steering column.
Remove it.
Sitting in seat, left side, by knee area will be on the steering column a slide switch, with rods. Those rods connect to starter key switch on the column and high low beam on turn signal. That is the switch to which I refer. It may be cause of the no start problem. Or the wire harness to the switch may be.....
IF you can turn on radio with the "accessory key position" your positioning of switch is good.
But that switch may be bad.
IF you feel activity when you turn key, your rod connections are good.
If you feel nothing as you turn key, your key cylinder is bad.
Following those wires from starter, because they are the fusible links, was my suggestion.
Your ride may have a cover under steering column.
Remove it.
Sitting in seat, left side, by knee area will be on the steering column a slide switch, with rods. Those rods connect to starter key switch on the column and high low beam on turn signal. That is the switch to which I refer. It may be cause of the no start problem. Or the wire harness to the switch may be.....
IF you can turn on radio with the "accessory key position" your positioning of switch is good.
But that switch may be bad.
IF you feel activity when you turn key, your rod connections are good.
If you feel nothing as you turn key, your key cylinder is bad.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
Likes: 6
From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
You will have to take apart the dash panels (specifically the one where the fuse cover is mounted and the knee bolster just above it) to reach the ignition switch. It's located on the left side of the steering column and is a big box about halfway down the outer shell, with a lot of wires coming out of it.
Also possible that your neutral safety switch in the console, or the clutch start switch on the clutch pedal if you have one, are out of alignment. These have to close (clutch depressed, auto shift lever in either P or N) for the starter to operate.
If the CTS is bad, then changing the coolant won't do anything. The CTS doesn't have the blue injector-like connector on it, it has a similar connector to the IAT in the airbox, but it's black with black and yellow wires coming out of it. That blue connector is for the cold start switch (CSS) which controls the operation of your seventh injector, mounted directly in the intake manifold and connected to the fuel rail by the white metal line, called the cold start injector (CSI).
Also possible that your neutral safety switch in the console, or the clutch start switch on the clutch pedal if you have one, are out of alignment. These have to close (clutch depressed, auto shift lever in either P or N) for the starter to operate.
If the CTS is bad, then changing the coolant won't do anything. The CTS doesn't have the blue injector-like connector on it, it has a similar connector to the IAT in the airbox, but it's black with black and yellow wires coming out of it. That blue connector is for the cold start switch (CSS) which controls the operation of your seventh injector, mounted directly in the intake manifold and connected to the fuel rail by the white metal line, called the cold start injector (CSI).
Last edited by Maverick H1L; May 20, 2005 at 01:48 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
The WIRES are the Fusible links.
Like that plastic fuse in fuse box, the wires off starter (NOT THICK battery cable ONE) are the fusible links.
Try key accessory first. IF operationl turning on radio, the postioning is fine.
Again try the key and if ya feel something your rods are hooked up. Once knee panel is off and rods exposed, push down on them to push harder on the switch for activation.
If nothing happens, try another idea of non start.
Perhaps ya reversed battery cables and fried fusible links and if so re-read my suggestion of attaching new wires.
Removing starter switch on steering column is not much fun, so keep trying until you exhaust other options.
Either a ground is your weak link or your fusible link wires to starter were damaged.
Like that plastic fuse in fuse box, the wires off starter (NOT THICK battery cable ONE) are the fusible links.
Try key accessory first. IF operationl turning on radio, the postioning is fine.
Again try the key and if ya feel something your rods are hooked up. Once knee panel is off and rods exposed, push down on them to push harder on the switch for activation.
If nothing happens, try another idea of non start.
Perhaps ya reversed battery cables and fried fusible links and if so re-read my suggestion of attaching new wires.
Removing starter switch on steering column is not much fun, so keep trying until you exhaust other options.
Either a ground is your weak link or your fusible link wires to starter were damaged.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
The wire is the fuse.
As does the "wire" in the plastic fuse separate, so does the starter wires ya were touching.
If they felt proper and intact, that probably is not your current starter turn over problems.
Get a remote starter, hook it up, push the button to see what's going on. If starter turns over, your problem is somewhere else.
The battery problem (mine) happened to me & that's how I fried my fusible links to starter. That's also how I learned about those wire fusible links at the starter.
If still not to clear on fusible links, go to a parts store and ask for them.
The remote starter idea may be your best bet to isolate where is the starting problem. I made mine from some store bought parts.
A heavy duty on-off button, two clips, some wire.
It clips to the starter terminals. Bypasses everything. Still need ignition to be on to start car, but not turn over engine by starter motor.
As does the "wire" in the plastic fuse separate, so does the starter wires ya were touching.
If they felt proper and intact, that probably is not your current starter turn over problems.
Get a remote starter, hook it up, push the button to see what's going on. If starter turns over, your problem is somewhere else.
The battery problem (mine) happened to me & that's how I fried my fusible links to starter. That's also how I learned about those wire fusible links at the starter.
If still not to clear on fusible links, go to a parts store and ask for them.
The remote starter idea may be your best bet to isolate where is the starting problem. I made mine from some store bought parts.
A heavy duty on-off button, two clips, some wire.
It clips to the starter terminals. Bypasses everything. Still need ignition to be on to start car, but not turn over engine by starter motor.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
One clip to thick wire, one to thin wires. Should work like that idea.
Sounds like your problem lies between the starter & the key switch.
If wires were crunchy feeling they were bad. Your response rules that out it seems.
On to next round of ideas.
Sounds like your problem lies between the starter & the key switch.
If wires were crunchy feeling they were bad. Your response rules that out it seems.
On to next round of ideas.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
IF your car DID NOT warm up AND it started backfiring, IT MAY NOT BE THE coolant temp sensor.
My problem was never backfiring,
but
bucking while accelerating
AND
my cooling fan did NOT cycle on & off.
BUT coolant temp sensor does control
timing and
also throttle sensor
and cooling fan cycling on & off.
It's not a bad thing to replace but it may not solve your problem.
Atleast you have the ignition key in on position & the engine ignites, using the remote starter. That's a help.
My problem was never backfiring,
but
bucking while accelerating
AND
my cooling fan did NOT cycle on & off.
BUT coolant temp sensor does control
timing and
also throttle sensor
and cooling fan cycling on & off.
It's not a bad thing to replace but it may not solve your problem.
Atleast you have the ignition key in on position & the engine ignites, using the remote starter. That's a help.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L MPFI
Transmission: 700-R4
Ok so I've run out of time this weekend so I've decided to send it off to the shop after I insure and register it and give them the following list...
www.jamesyedon.info/Personal/CAMARO.doc
I have to take my tools back to work so I can't take apart the timing chain **** to check it and I figure a professional will know and fix it quicker then I will so this is the best solution to get this thing running finally.
On a good note, for all you base 2.8L Auto guys wondering what your Camaro pulls on the dyno at higher elevations, I'm going to start going to meets in Red Deer at a local shop and he says we get to use the Dyno and such for free so
I also need a new exhaust as cat back is uhh, missing, so I will be ordering the Pacestter headers and a 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back, not sure if I will go with a cat or not, and most likely flowmaster 40's or equivilant, then throw it on the dyno again 
Anyways back onto current issues, thanks for everyones help, elminated alot of issues so hopefully it will be cheaper to fix and I can get this thing rolling this week
www.jamesyedon.info/Personal/CAMARO.doc
I have to take my tools back to work so I can't take apart the timing chain **** to check it and I figure a professional will know and fix it quicker then I will so this is the best solution to get this thing running finally.
On a good note, for all you base 2.8L Auto guys wondering what your Camaro pulls on the dyno at higher elevations, I'm going to start going to meets in Red Deer at a local shop and he says we get to use the Dyno and such for free so
I also need a new exhaust as cat back is uhh, missing
, so I will be ordering the Pacestter headers and a 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back, not sure if I will go with a cat or not, and most likely flowmaster 40's or equivilant, then throw it on the dyno again Anyways back onto current issues, thanks for everyones help, elminated alot of issues so hopefully it will be cheaper to fix and I can get this thing rolling this week
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 2.8L MPFI
Transmission: 700-R4
Ok well aparantly the engine is fuxord, the bottom end is knocking or something, But they fixed the firing order if I remeber right so it would stop misfiring, don't know why it wasnt the same as the book but oh well.
I might try and drive it home, see if I can blow it up
Time to look into getting a 3.4, I'm just reviewing engine swap threads for 3.4 right now, I told my mechanic it was basically a straight drop in and he said probably 8 to 10 hours of work, I'd do it myself but I dont have my tools here and a swap for me would take longer then a weekend so we will see.
On the hunt for information and engines now.
I might try and drive it home, see if I can blow it up
Time to look into getting a 3.4, I'm just reviewing engine swap threads for 3.4 right now, I told my mechanic it was basically a straight drop in and he said probably 8 to 10 hours of work, I'd do it myself but I dont have my tools here and a swap for me would take longer then a weekend so we will see.
On the hunt for information and engines now.
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