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make sure your plug wires are correct order 1,2,3,4,5,6
make sure your tps is adjusted proper and plugged in
try unplugging maf and see if its a difference
check your timing

 

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(using an analog multimeter and unlugging it putting the prongs into the tps itself -not the harness- and moving the throttle really slow waiting for the nedle to jump. if it does the tps is bad. if not then get a digital multimeter andat idle theres a # it should read and at wot theres a # it should read. just unscrew a little the 2 screws and move the tps itself up or down to get it within spec

 

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nope the car off.

 

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When ya have the timing cover off, check to see IF you're still dot to dot on the chain gears.
ALSO NEED NEW tensioner. It's really mandatory to change it while there.
Also go get a balancer snout sleeve repair kit (it's stainless steel sleeve slips over balancer to reduce leak down there & $4).
Number one is passenger side front.
Bring to TDC, check balancer marker (should be by 0*. Then disassemble.
IF ya got spark, you have spark. Noneed to test that.
Change the fuel filter, for sure.
If ya feel real energenic, I'd remove the distributor and rebuild it. Cause then you'll include the coil on distributor base for replacing.
Do a search for my distributor rebuild tech thread.
PS after all this, you'll be so pleased cause tis car will run smooth, use less gas and run cooler, too. This is a worthwhile search for the solution.

 

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if you have good compression and you wrent burning oil before i would hold off on the rebuild

try changing and gapping plugs then test all the injectors. they mey not be very well.

and yeah change the fuel filter

so its still turning over and trying to fire?

and did you check for spark yet?

 

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yeah i would test injectors next then fuel filter

did you scan codes for the hell of it?

does everything else work, like interior lights radio etc...

 

you check the ICM? autozone can check it for you.
even if you get spark this can still be bad

while youre there get them to test your alternator.

its cheapest to buy 'tested good' working parts from a junkyard, and if you get your car running buy new and keep the tested good as a spare

 

oh and while your ate the wreckers take a few relays. such as the fuel pump relay.

a bad relay will still prime the fuel rail, but not pump fuel when the car runs.

 

If my advice wasn't on the spot for ya oh well
Atleast ya get to enjoy your project.
That's nice.

 

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Skimmed above...thought of one thing that hurt my car...There is a back up on the fuel system that killed my car. the oil pressure sensor...my plug came off and grounded out and blew the fuse to the fuel system...worth a look if you have not yet. should be on the passenger side in a sealed fuse holder. Though it would not turn over when this happened to me!

Also possible could you have a bad computer. I have been thru 3. Each time it was the fuel system curcuit that acted up! I could not get the car to run right. the last time it kept stalling out & back firing! I also replaced the prom once. Also the smaller chip was not in right and cause similar probs! Check those areas if you have not yet!

 

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First off, check the sparkplug wire set to proper location...that means that every sparkplug is receiving the fire right on time.....my poor experience says that it also can be poor fuel delivery, check for fuel pressure, fuel lines out of problems and fuel regulator on good shape. When I bought my car, it misfired so bad!....until I found out (thanks to a friend that gave me a very good clue) that the problem was the fuel pump, since I have changed it, I had no problems at all....

 

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is there a junkyard nearby?

i would rape it for parts you could replace on your car. (sensors, injectors, relays) just paint the junkyard ones with a paint marker so you know which ones are old, you may get lucky


did you test the injectors yet?
did you replace the fuel filter yet?

 

oh and your car WILL start and run even with the maf unplugged.

 

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id test the injectors

and its still getting a strong spark?

i drive 30 minutes to my fav wrecker. sometimes farther to ones i know have thirdgens tucked way up on the hill.

id grab some relays and regulators.

 

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you didnt tell me that, as at the first post it was turning over

now id say check your battery with a multimeter, put in a spare or charge the old one.

test your alternator and starter, get a starter solonoid, and ignition switch, clean rust off engine grounds.

why do you think it isnt turning over now?

 

do the dash lights come on now? does anything else work?

 

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actually that would burn your dads alternator as well


so at the beginning of this thread it was turning over

why isnt it turning over now? doesnt make sence, or maybe you need to clarify

but if its not starting you need to check your battery, alternator and starter, get a starter solonoid, and ignition switch, clean rust off engine grounds. change the fuel filter too like you said you were going to. it gets confusing when you say youre going to do somthing that may solve the problem and then dont do it.

theres not much you can do unless you actually do these things.
get a battery charger, they are 30$ at canadian tire, batterys can be had from the wrecker as well as alternators cheap. why the hell not go to the wrecker and get tons of parts cheap, then if you can use them to figure out whats wrong with the car then go buy new and keep the wrecker ones as spares.

i cant help any more until you do some of these things

 

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youre too vague and need to list everything that you have done and what the car is doing in one reply, instead of spread out over 15, if i have to read this whole thing every day just to remember what youve done and said you were going to do, but assume you didnt do, then nothing will help, and thats probably why noone else is trying as hard to help you.

"the car has never started with the MAF unplugged, it has only ever turned over with it unplugged, and now its doing niether...."

is this the mangled sentence where i was supposed to know that you were trying to say 'my car did crank, now it doesnt' ?
on top of this you dont seem to be doing anything about your car, nor take any advice given

 

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Damn, That really sucks. I wish I still had my v6 car so we could test it on mine.. grr. Uh, maybe a stupid question, but I didnt see anything on this thread about the wiring? Maybe one of the connections somewhere in there is messed up..

 

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Distriibutor rebuild is a must.

 

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First of all, replace the coolant temp sensor and connector if needed. That little bugger can and will screw everything up for you if it's toast. Believe me, I've been there. Also check the sensor in the airbox (intake air temp sensor, or IAT) for proper resistance.

Second, have the ECM tested. Check its fuses (the one in the fuse box and the one near the MAF mounted on the frame rail with an orange and red wire sticking out) to make sure they are good. Check your ECM connectors for proper seating of the individual pins, especially the black wires, since they are ground. If the ECM isn't receiving power, (just check it anyways since it sounds like it is getting power just to be on the safe side) the engine will hiccup like it's going to run but just won't go. Also check the seating of the PROM and CALPAK inside the ECM.

Third, check your IAC for proper working order. Remove it from the throttle body and clean it if there is any carbon on it, then have someone key the ignition on and then off again. When doing this, you may want to point it at a rag or something, since when the key is turned off, the pintle will fly out, if it is working.

As far as the starter is concerned, does the starter turn but not crank the engine, does it click, or does it just not do anything? Most auto parts stores (especially AutoZone) can charge a dead battery in an hour. I would get a second from a junkyard, just in case, and have them charge that as well. Grab an alternator while you are there, maybe even two. That way you might be able to save some more money on a rebuilt unit, or grab a working one.

There are ways of checking the various parts of the distributor. Take the black ignition control module to an auto parts store for testing. If it fails at all, especially when cold, get a new one, perferably an AC/Delco unit. Take a DVOM, set to AC voltage, and probe the two terminals of the pickup coil. The pickup coil should put out an AC voltage if working properly-I don't remember what it should read exactly but there should be a VAC reading.

Testing injectors is easy. Unhook both ends of the injector harness and probe every other terminal (1 and 3, 2 and 4) using a DVOM at either connector. You should get a reading of about 3 ohms resistance for each set of injectors. If you get four or more ohms, you have a bad injector.

There are a lot of parts stores out there that unknowingly sell bad parts. A lot of us on here have had to go through one or more "rebuilt" alternators before finding a good one, for example. If you replace the battery, replace the alternator as well. Each, when bad, will kill the other.

 

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I have a post set up for the IAC and CTS resistance values. I need to find it for myself, so I'll link to it when I find it.

I don't know if it is relevant or not, but there is also a CRANK fuse in the fuse block. There should be (at least on my car) two good fusable links on the positive battery terminal of the starter. While down there, you might want to unhook the smaller purple wire from the solenoid and see if that wire gets battery voltage when you hit the key. If it does, then the solenoid is shot and replacement of the solenoid is a lot cheaper than replacing the starter.

:edit: I just realized I posted some incorrect info. The total resistance of each bank of injectors should be 4 ohms instead of 3. If you get six ohms or more resistance, then you have a bad one in that bank.

 

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Here's the link to the IAC and CTS resistance values. The left hand column is for ambient temperature in degrees F, and the right hand column is what you should see on a DVOM. The values are the same for both sensors.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=281596

Also, you can't really test the MAF until you get the engine running. There are several test you can do. First is to unplug the MAF and start the engine. If it runs better than with the MAF plugged in, then the MAF is bad. If you tap on the MAF with a screwdriver handle (don't whack it, just a tap will do) and the engine stumbles, it's bad. Also, there is a relay tucked in one of the corners of the frame by the radiator. If you have a Firebird, the relay is tucked right in front (from the driver's seat) of the sensor and air box, and is bolted to the body. If you unplug the relay and swap it with the fuel pump relay (they are identical and you should ask for a fuel pump relay at the parts store if you need a new one). If the engine runs better, the relay that was removed is bad. Also, the other fuse that is mounted on the frame rail is for the MAF relay. Check it.

 

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I'm at the point of the coolant temp sensor.
Borg Warner #3000
Comes with wires connector
$16 or so.
Yes this sensor can wreck havoc on your car.
Have you checked the fusible links to starter?
Or when it was cranking did you hear a sizzling or a frying smell?
If not, the fusible link wiring at starter is probably still ok.
By touching starter wires if they feel "cruchy" they are history.
New ones are about $3 or so.
Shrink wrap the souldered ends of the replaced fusible links wiring, if you have to replace them. Those wires are also rated for certain power demands. Make sure ya mention the starter usage.
I once fried my starter wires, it's a sound and smell you'll remember if that happens
If you have a remote starter you can use that instead of the steering column ignition switch.

 

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It's the wires to the starter, down there.
Go to starter, feel back from the wires on starter connection, it's those wires.
The one thick one is the battery cable.
I fried my fusible link starter wires by reversing the battery connection (pos wire on neg post and..).
PS the environment down there is harsh so to really protect your (if ya gotta) new fusible link wire job, shrink wrap is advisible and so is the soldering.
Hope you find another cause for no starter clicking.
Perhaps the starter switch on steering column shifted and that may be cause of no starter activity.

 

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