Again, I am not going to get into an agruement with you.

Get temp numbers... PERIOD.
Before, after, with stock aluminum, and that steel intake.

I will BET YOU the temps are higher in that STEEL ONE.

It is not worth arguing with you, you think that steel is better than aluminum for intakes? your insane...

Talk to someone that cares now, I do not.
You wanna spend that money for a hotter intake charge go for it.

 

it does fit underneath the stock hood, i had a problem with mine cause of the huge tb that i am using(65mm). my problem wasn't directly from the intake, it was from the iac valve housing that i made. the thing sticks up 1/4" too much to fit. i am still trying to find someone with a laptop that i can download the images from my camera to a disk. once i can do that, i will post some pics.

it is not that large. it is alot taller than the stock intake, and the big improvement was the dia. of the pipes, and the bends..... there are other improvements over stock, but you get the idea.

as far as numbers go, i will get them when i have the money to go to the dyno. right now, i already spent my next paycheck on the exhaust for the headers.
personally i don't care if anyone believes the numbers, they will see when i get the dyno results.

i will get some track numbers as soon as i get the clutch broke in enough to make full passes.

 

In response to those waiting for new dyno numbers, I don't know what else to say, we spent lots of money on dyno runs and flow bench testing and put the charts up at trueleo.com for everyone to see. There's also been a long running thread on the PFF Fiero forum (Hi-Flo update) that has covered the whole project from day one. We have sold quite a few intakes now and you can read some user comments on that forum. What you won't find on that forum is a single unhappy user. Short of forced air induction and or NOS, nothing will get you more power and RPMs than our intake. As with any forum, I have no control over what people write, if it did not work as claimed, there would be lots said on PFF to that fact as people love to slam things, there is none. Like most people, we like to see prof that something works as stated and that's why we spent the time and money to do the dyno runs etc. I'd just like to add, that Raydar fellow, well he don't work for us, he's just a loyal customer that appreciates our product and how we support our customers. Personally, I'd also like to see the new dyno numbers just see what that particular modified engine will do.

 

I (We) are not argueing dyno numbers, anything is an improvement over stock.

I (We) are tring to get you (And others) to realize that the material used is not a very good choice. It WILL HEAT SOAK most likely within 20 minutes of running.

The intake charge is hotter, I (and anyone that knows anything about metal) also knows it.

You want to show it is not, get IAT readings from the stock aluminum intake, and IAT readings with the steel intake. Bt I can already tell you the results, the steel will be hotter. I would guestimate by 5* or more...


Yeah, you made an intake that takes a 100+* bend out of the intake tract, of course it will make more power, if it did not something would be SERIOUSLY wrong.

I give you props on making it, just now concentrate on making it out of something more desirable and priced more decenty.

You (and others) keep taking what is being said about the intake being made of steel as an attack, it isn't. It is CONSTRUCTIVE, I said from my first post on this that is all it is, take it OR leave it...
IT IS ADVISE

ALSO, if you cannot take the opinoins of others, maybe you should not be doing what you are doing...

 

i fully agree with v6 sucker

from day one i have thanked you for making it, but most people on here just found it made gains, for the price a simple change to aluminium would yeild even greater changes, imho this intake doesn more harm then good, the increased temperatures will kill sensors faster, and for the price, i'm surprised it wasn't aluminium, if it was you;d have my money on your pocket today

 

Ummmm... What?! Puhleeease.

Which sensors specifically? There are no sensors in the upper intake.

I'll submit to you that the Fiero underhood environment is a lot hotter than an F-bod underhood, due to more restricted airflow. I've been using this intake since April, driving in Atlanta traffic. I certainly haven't cooked any sensors (OR ignition modules, which Fieros seem to have an appetite for, even on a *good* day.)

Edit - It's gonna be next week before I can get the temp probe. Of course she forgot to bring it home. Jeez.

 

Actually you will have more problems with detonation than killing sensors, so I agree with you there.

However, we do not need to keep hearing about your driving around atlanta without issue. That proves absolutely nothing.

Kretos, the air is not getting heated until right before being introduced to the engine. Hense the pyhsical upper intake is basically oven like in heat transfer.

 

In the context of "all that heat" killing sensors, I believe it does.

As for detonation, I believe that the increased airflow (and thus leaner mixtures) would be as likely to cause detonation as anything. The chips that are included with the manifold address this.

Regardless... I don't have the probe this weekend, so you all can have fun. Post away. I won't have any rebuttal for a couple of days unless I can find something else to use.

cheers.

 

ive tried to stay out of any of these posts since shawn got on here but ive gotta finally chime in............ wildponies3 or 87blueracr or whatever name man, please..... get a digital cam, take some pics, go to walmart, get them on a disk, and upload them on here. im not trying to be jerk or anything but you really need to show us some proof. no one believes you on here, youve gotta show us some proof. show us pics of this intake/throttle body youre making or this MIGHTY 2.8 or whatever youre doing. you talk the talk, but dont ever walk the walk. and please dont tell us that you cant get them onto a disk, because any place w/ a photolab can put them onto a disk so you can upload them.... its 2005. again, im not trying to be an a$$, i just want to see some proof of what you have been saying over the past months. and if you are for real, i have lots of respect for you then shawn......

dr. dave

 

i bought the camera a couple of weeks ago, i always forget to get that done at walmart, or i would. i got a buddy to do it on the boat for nothing, but he forgets to put them on the computer, or i forget to bring the freaking thing to work...
i promise you that it is installed, and that the ford throttlebody is hooked up, though i still got to tune the tps in. the iac that i made needs some shaved off the top and the bottom to get it to fit under the hood.
i will throw some pics of the parts i have been working on as well. the color of the intake is old ford motor blue, the dark one. i got the intake that color, the interim heads are that color, and the extra valvecovers i got are the same color with a chevy bow tie in the middle. i have to redo the one valvecover, as the paint decided to wrinkle on me with the application of high temp clear coat.... i was pretty upset that i have to go back and redo the whole thing..... will try to have them by monday if i get a break from putting the clutch and slave cylinder in this weekend.

 

Hopefully when we post our dyno numbers on Redraif's cars you guys will put away your slide rules and quit the arguing. If there isn't a heat problem in a Fiero driving in the worst traffic in the country (the 405 ain't **** compared to 285!), in the summer, with a heat index that goes well over 100 degrees, then most F-bodies wouldn't have an issue. No sensor hooks directly to the upper intake (which is what we are talking about, the throttle body is aluminum), and the upper is seperated from the iron heads by an aluminum base anyway. We'd all like to have aluminum intakes, aluminum heads, and all sorts of stuff that other engine owners take for granted, but we're lucky that anyone will take the time, effort, and expense to make anything for these engines now...they haven't been produced in 10 years, and weren't popular when they were new. Not to mention most V6 owners don't have the $$$ (or the desire) for a lot of upgrades.
Even if Francis was willing to make an aluminum version, I doubt any of you would want to pay for the cost of all the TIG welding, much less the materials. Call Hogan's, or Billet Fabrications, or any of those guys and ask them what they would charge to build a similar intake for you...if its within $1500 of what Trueleo wants for their intake, I'd be surprised. Its no wonder that no one wants to step up and make parts for this market; all of you expect so much from the parts themselves, but still want to pay bargain basement prices. If there is a willing market for an aluminum intake, one of you guys should build your own.

 

Don't know if I asked, before.

If you wouldn't mind an audience when you do the dyno run, I'd sure like to meet you there and watch. I'll even take pics if you want. I live in Douglasville, so driving to Marietta is not a problem. Don't even have to get on 285.

Of course, it depends on whether I have to work that day. I work the most unbelievably f'ed up schedule you could imagine.

 

That would be cool, I have been meaning to PM you to suggest it esp since we are into Fieros too. We usually go to Dynolab on Thursday nights, though I'm not positive we'll be finished with it by this Thursday (way too much going on lately). We might wind up going during the day the week of labor day if that doesn't work out. I'll be sure to let you know!

 

GET OFF THE DAMN DYNO INCREASE FOR GODS SAKE.

THAT IS NOT WHAT IS BEING ARGUED/DISCUSSED.

WE ALL KNOW that by removing that damn bend you will get more power. SO STOP BRING THAT UP. I DON'T CARE ABOUT THAT.

I AM CONCERNED ABOUT INTAKE TEMPS.

Now everyone please stop posting the same damn crap about "dyno increases" and ACTUALLY ANSWER THE FRACKIN QUESTION. JUST HOW MUCH HOTTER IS THE INTAKE CHARGE?

Now, I am sick and fracking tired of attempting to discuss this... everyone that is discusing for the intake says NOTHING BUT DYNO... THAT IS NOT repeat NOT the concern being talked about. SO GET THE HELL OFF IT.

Now if they are needing to supply a chip for the intake, I am betting they are adding more fuel to deal with not only SMOOTHER (NOT INCREASED) air flow (as there has been NOTHING posted about flow rates compared to stock), and the added heat to the intake charge, as both these conditions scream lean out and increased chance for detonation.
So it requires more fuel to handle that.

I came into this expressing my opinion, and posting suggestions. I them moved to asking questions and asking for answers. And for this people that are doing the same as me are continuously being attacked, and being accused of atacking.

Since when is ASKING QUESTIONS, and POSTING OPINIONS and SUGGESTIONS ATTACKING?

You people need to get off your high horse and realize to comprehend what is being said and stop taking questions as attacks.

I know how that intake will effect things. Anyone that knows about how metal acts also knows eactly what will happen.

Lastly I am not willing to get a few more ponies just to risk possibly burning up piston(s) and burning more gas. Because it WILL INCREASE intake temps, and INCREASE the chance for detonation, they do not tune that chance out, or change the design to reduce that risk, they simply add more fuel.

I am done tring to discuss this. I feel like I am talking to brick walls. I ask a question, I get it shows hiher dyno nubers... THE QUESTIONS NEVER GET ANSWERED.
IF this was done correctly, and really dyno tuned, this product would not look anything like it does now.
A REAL Dyno tune would have shown the increase in intake temps and the company would never have even considered using steel for an intake unless the area has an excess of airflow, not a stangant area like Thirdgens and Fieros have.

I could go on and on about issues with the "dyno tuned" desing this thing has... but I am not. It is simply not worth it. Noone is willing to listen, and actually discuss anything. Dyno numbers are not everything.

 

If the intake temps (actually combustion temps) were high enough to burn pistons, they would have sent NOx readings to hell in a handbasket, long before that happened. My car passed emissions, including NOx with flying colors. And our emissions are done under load, on dynos. (Sorry. There's that hated word again.) Other than the visual inspection, they are as stringent as anywhere.

Even if the intake temp was a few degrees higher (I'm still not willing to concede that. Not by a long shot), it's not going to appreciably raise the combustion temp. Certainly not to the point that it would start melting stuff.
Consider all of the people who are removing their (restrictive) factory cold air ducting and installing (less restrictive) cone filters, but sucking in hotter air from under the hood. If your theory were true, those guys would be leaving trails of broken engine pieces in their wake. Although the ideal scenario would be unlimited cold air, apparently the temperature tradeoff is worth the extra airflow.

Edit- I'll get the intake charge temps. Just not as quickly as I'd hoped.

 

their is a huge difference between using a cone filter to suck in warmer air into an ALUMINIUM INTAKE, and have a cold air intake sucking air into a STEEL INTAKE, theres not a doubt in my mind theres gonna be increased temps, its steel.

warmer air into an aluminium intake will disapate faster then in a steel intake, look at when you weld the two metals, steel takes longer to heat up but it retains the heat for a long time, aluminium on the other hand, heats up faster but also cools down alot faster. this is not opinion this is fact.

also i'm not flaming francis raydar or anyone, i'm just trying to get the actual facts and not a bunch of, oh well its worked better. as v6sucker said, its gonna be alot better then stock, but i want temp readings.

thanks guys, hopefully someone can put them up and end this, the ideal way to do this would to be take a f body with the stock intake, go for a hour drive through the city, get home pop the hood and check, take the same f body with the truleo intake a few days later and do the same 1 hour drive, get home and pop the hood and check the temps, come back and 2 hours later on both and check again.

 

I'll post temp readings as soon as I get the probe.
It'll be Fieros instead of an F-bod. Hope nobody minds.
The first car will be my 3.4 with the Trueleo intake. It's running the stock air filter and a 195 stat.
The second car will be a stone stock 2.8, also with the stock air filter and 195 stat. I'll do similar test loops on both cars, on the same afternoon.
If I don't get the electronic probe within a reasonable amount of time, I'll try to use the metal "stick" thermometer that I already have. It'll just be harder to get the readings, as I won't be able to see them while I'm driving, or datalog them, for that matter.

 

i have no problem waiting a bit for the proper results, the difference between the 2.8 and 3.4 shouldn't be much.

i'm glad someone here is willing to get some answers, i'm just slightly disapointed its not the guy trying to sell these

 

Francis is a good guy. I've never met him, but we trade emails a couple of times a week.
I bought one of the very early production pieces from him and agreed to "critique" it for him and be a guinea pig. I made some suggestions that were implemented. In general, it has worked well. It has allowed the 3.4 swap, into a Fiero, to actually make some meaningful power.
Do I have an ulterior motive? Do I work for Francis? Am I making anything off of this?
No, on all counts.
I'm just a fan. I just think this thing is that good. And if Francis and Troy can sell enough of them, it may encourage them to work on other projects. He has mentioned Fiero headers and 3.4 DOHC intakes. Very few people are doing anything meaningful for us (the Fiero folks). I'm all for it. The V6 F-bod folks are kind of in the same predicament. I hope he succeeds. Not everybody wants (or can afford) to swap in a V8. It's whole lot cooler to go fast with less motor.

 

i fully agree, everyone on here wants a good aftermarket for our parts, i would love to be proved wrong on this, the issue here isn't wether or not the design is good, its whether or not this intake is a good long term design for a daily driver

 

No one attacked anyone (at least not until this rant). Chill the f*ck out. Raydar is going to try to get the numbers you asked for, so don't have an aneurysm over it! Its not worth it. Since the intake, the materials, and the testing aren't up to your standards, why don't you just build your own damn intake and take your insane rant elsewhere? We'd all like as much information as possible, but being an a$$ about it doesn't help the situation.

 

You just do not get it...

I posted comments, suggestions and questions...

The ONLY responses I am getting from anyone that is speaking about the intake is DYNO NUMBERS.

I do not need to chill out, people that come in posting NOTHING to answer anything like you did just need to either shut up, or get the answer to questions being asked.

I was very considerate even while I was being bashed for ASKING QUESTIONS.

I could care less about this crap anymore.
I think now I remember why I left this board over a year ago... dealing with stupid crap like this...

 

No, you posted a whiny rant that added nothing to the post.

WTF do you want? Raydar is taking the temp #s on the Fiero version, and comparing them to a stocker; I'm going to take temp measurements as well, when the installation is finished, and compare them as scientifically as possible to the stock piece. I'm also going to provide the dyno numbers and temps with it fully heat soaked...which after all, IS THE ONLY RELEVANT INFORMATION ANYWAY!!!! IF the air intake temps were affected as much as some people here seem to think, that will be reflected in...you guessed it...the DYNO NUMBERS!!!

I'll reiterate: you need to chill out There are only two F-body intakes even in the hands of customers ;one of which had an unfortunate fire that damaged the harness before any tests could be made, and the one sitting in my garage. It'll be finished up soon, and all the relevant numbers (and even some of the irrlelevant ones) will be posted...because I want to, not because some arrogant pinhead is barking orders for the questions he wants answered. FYI, there would not even BE a Trueleo intake for F-bodies yet without my efforts...I emailed them requesting it when I found out about the Fiero one, I took the measurements to see what would clear, I made a trip to the salvage yard to get the F-body intake and a Ford TB so that the modifications could be made to the Fiero design, and shipped everything to them, and stayed in close touch to insure that this intake would even be made. Guys like you would still be pissing and moaning about being stuck with a stock intake, not about intake temps on the only 60 degree V6 performance intake available, if I hadn't gotten off my a$$ and made this happen. When you have contributed something other than hot air (no pun intended!), feel free to tell me to shut up...until then, your input isn't needed.

Considerate...hmm. You probably think you're being friendly, tactful, and conversational, too.




No need to leave, just take it down a notch or two. This board is usually a friendly place, and I think we all want to keep it that way.

 

I shouldn't bother throwing this out there since no Fiero user has had any problems with heat or otherwise, but I think some might find this interesting: Two points I'd like to bring upm 1st; back in the days when the V8 was the mainstay in cars and iron and steel intakes were the norm, those intakes had water passages in them so the engines would run decent until they warmed up. Whereas cold intakes don't atomise fuel very good. Those manifolds were also very heavy and very thick with lots of mass.
The aftermarket people eventually came out with allumium intakes but they did so only to get lighter intakes with better flow angles, the factor was not really a consideration.
The second point is about mass, our intakes are a few pounds lighter than the stock alluminium ones. With alluminium being much lighter than steel, that means the stock intake has way more mass to it. Thick metal absorbs more heat and takes longer to cool can thin metal. Our thin runners with nice airflow all around are really not at a disadvantage to the stock units. four of the stock unit runners are in pairs and thus each runner does not have air flow all around it. I think when you take into account the reduce mass and the better airflow it, it may explain why we have not had any problems with heat whatsoever with our intakes.

 

True that.

Buick motors with iron intakes use a heat riser on one of the exhaust manifolds. Which is just a butterfly valve that blocks off the pipe some to force the exhaust gases through the intake.

Though the first thing everyone does is gut the heat riser [ you can't just remove it as its part of the gasket, Buicks doesn't use iron or fiber donuts.] and install blocking plates in the intake to stop that.


So yes your right about the iron intakes in a way.
Also why lots of guys including me run plywood carb spacers.
[Old drag racers trick. Before aluminum intakes.]

 

This post is getting funny now.

We have a con artist...

We have a brown noser...

we have a few parinoid defenders, one without the ability to go to a photo lab and use an $6 throw away camera....

We have heat riser tube specialist that apparantly has no clue heat riser tubes on on most cars in some form or fashion....

The only guy that is asking fair questions an getting attacked is V6sucker. Hell folks, he may want to buy one, he's asking for some techinical imput before he makes his purchase desicion and everyone else is offended for no reason other then he wants facts.

Then there's me off course.... Like any of you give a sh*t but would all love to have my car and experience.

 

gee funny ain't it?

the steel intakes died in the 80's... ever wonder why?

 

Since you're name-calling now, you forgot to mention the posterior orifice. We're all happy that you decided to chime in and complete the mix.

He'll get his info. He'll actually get more info than he asked for.

You're right. We don't.

 

it's pretty weird how abunch of 2nd graders have jobs an cars, grow up guys

 

You're right. Sorry. I've tried to remain civil, but it's not easy.

It remains to be seen whose "logic" will prove to be the correct logic.

It'll be interesting if the temp readings turn out to be nearly identical. I wonder if the results will be discounted as being "bullsh*t" or if the naysayers will find something else to disparage about this thing. I suppose that we shall see.

 

well seeing how from day one i've been one of the "whiners" about the heat issue, if its not a factor i've already said i would admit it, no problem

lets just get the numbers and shut everyone up

 

kinda curious though, when people starting asking about heat issues, how did all these fiero guys get on here to defend the product?

just kinda curious, instead of the maker getting temp numbers for us we get a bunch of people saying its not a problem.

 

The Fiero guys have been using this since March.
Francis drives a turboed 86 Fiero GT, and was looking for a little more airflow for his engine.
He asked on the Fiero forum if anyone thought they might be interested if he was to build a few extras, since most of the engineering would have to be done, even for a "one off".
The 3.4 guys (including myself) jumped on it with both feet.
We have been swapping 3.4s into Fieros for years, keeping the Fiero intake plumbing, but the stock Fiero intake system has always been the choke point. No matter what anyone has done, the engine has always fallen on it's face at ~4500 RPM.
Long story short, many of us have bought these, and have had extremely good results. I'll add, now, that the temperature issue just never came up. (I know that it's an issue here. I *will* get answers for you.)
Francis wondered if the F-body community would be interested. At about that same time, LT1 guy approached him about building one for the F-bods. (He learned about it on the Fiero Forum.)
Francis opened an R&D thread (this one) and invited me to have a look, and contribute if I wanted. Thought I might be able to help, since I've got some real-world experience with it. (It has proven to be the answer to many 3.4 swappers' wet dreams.)

Why am I answering this instead of Francis?
Easy. I'm here.
I'm sure that Francis has a life. I, OTOH, have been in the house with a stomach ailment of some sort, for the past few days. Can't get too far from the "facilities". (I'm sure that will draw some humorous comments from some folks. ) I've got nothing better to do. Might as well answer.
Of course if I've made any factual errors, I'm sure he will correct me.

 

ah ic, just kinda curious thats all

 

Raydar, I already know what the temp reading will show. I want to see how accurate you are willing to be. I will then post two pictures of readings, One from the TB, and one from the steel bracket that is factory attached to the plenum bolts.

I am curious to see what #'s you post, then I'll post my findings which are factual- since I have that reputation of being accurate.
I have a very highend cooking thermometer out of my wifes kitchen that she uses for candy making and such, it needs to be very accurate for carmelising heat and is.

 

We'll probably be waiting all year for this guy to get a thermometer so I'll just go ahead and post some proof so everyone can see.

Now take note that my car runs extremely cool since I have ceramic coated stainless steel headers and I have a radical aftermarket cooling system with an Aluminum BeCool radiator.

Yet, this was done at around noon today right after my wife returned with the car from out and about driving in 94* heat here in So. Cal today

The plenum aluminum right by the TB neck reads 128* while the car is hot and still running after driving in the heat of the day.

I then put it onto one of the metal brackets that attaches to the aluminum plenum to see if it absorbs more heat and low & behold it certainly does have more heat soak being steel (144*). The heat in this bracket is absorbs FROM the aluminum runners yet it is hotter! Why? It absorbs, retains and does not dissipate heat as well as the aluminum.

Cant read the dial because the camera is poor quailty to read that small, but you can compare the distance of the red needle from the white lettering in the small blue circle on the therm.

First one read 128* on aluminum
The second one reads 144* on steel
on the same motor approx the same distance from the heads that the heat needs to transfer and dissipate.

 

BAM!

 

exactly, and i bet if dean were to of gone back 2 or 3 hours later to remeasure, the alumiun would of been a hell of alot cooler then the bracket

 

Do any of you really put that much faith in any manufacturer's numbers? I'd rather have numbers from someone who is an end user of the product, and not afiliated with the company in any way. It just so happens that right now most of the users of this product own Fieros, since they got their intake first.

 

Dean, from your pictures it appears that the metal bracket you took the temperature of is the AC compressor support bracket. I was just curious if the AC had been running before, since they do get very hot and it could possibly account for some, if not all, of the difference in temperature.

 

so what is the manifold temp when the car is moving? Exhaust manifold heat is where the majority of the engine bay heat is coming from, and those w/o coated parts are gonna get soaked no matter what. For that matter, what if the intake gets coated itself? then heat soak is a non isue.

 

Sorry but heat transfer from an air gap to the A/C compressor? your joking right?
If anything that bracket is mostly isolated from the A/C Compressor except from the actuall 1 (ONE) bolt it has attached to it. Otherwise it sees alot of air flow actually, and yet it is STILL 16* hotter... while true that is not that much.

Now also remember the part we are talking about is barley 1/8" thick and sees great air flow, but imagine if it did not have that airflow around it, what would the temp be then? 160? 170? 180?
Then try to account for metal three times as thick...

The fact is that steel is not good at sheading heat, never has, and it most certainly never will be.

You defenders are fighting a known lossing battle. Heat is not a friend of steel.

Steel cannot shead heat well, it heat soaks faster yet you continually try to call the laws of thermodynamics lies...

 

i was going to stay out of this one but i've got to throw my experience with my aluminum intake in here. i just got home from driving around for about an hour (datalogging). i pulled up in front of the house, left the car running popped the hood and layed my hand straight on the top of my 1/4" thick aluminum intake manifold....i BARELY felt any heat in it! i have ceramic coated mine, also. but, before i coated it, i shot it with a infrared thermometer gun (which i'll have to get my hands on again soon)...after running about a half hour, if i remember correctly, during the day...it was in the 70 degree range! the stock mid section (cast aluminum) was about 110*! i can't imagine what steel would have been!

 

this is why a few people on here including myself are waiting for yours to come out, just make it so the vavle covers can be gotten at and my money waiting

 

Alan, I'm REALLY glad you posted. I've been avoiding this thread like the plague, but wow...

a) the A/C lower bracket is NOT enough to hold the A/C compressor in line. It WILL bend slightly toward the belt - I can see it every single time I take my bracket off. You MUST have the upper bracket, if you have A/C

b) I can not even believe the debate about Aluminum vs Steel is even happening. There is no debate. If you believe there is, I encourage you to go research about what you are debating. Nicest way I can put it

c) Aluminum is better than steel for an intake. By a VERY large margin. Maybe not profit margin, but definetly performance wise.

 

<------- guinea pig
redraif<-----Guinnea pig



okay first off, i am the one that started this thread back on my other s/n before i got banned for arguing and cussing at dean, and dean the same thing...
second of all,
lt1 and i both were emailing troy and francis about getting theese made, him and shannon just got to getting them the money before i did, him and shannon also gave trueleo a intake to make sure they could do it.

heat soak..... let's see 11.5:1 cr, anyone else running that high of compression??? not the last time that i checked..... if there is gonna be a problem with spark knock, and detonation, don't you think that i would see it running on 87 octane?


as for my car, pics are on the way, gotta pick them up from walmart tommorrow.(cant' get ahold of the car tonight) engine is out, tranny was out, is now back in. i need 3 hours and 2 more bodies, and the engine will be back in..... yea you heard me i need 3 hours to get the engine in...... it took us 4 to get it out, but that was with trying to figure out how we were gonna do it on the fly...... once the engine is back in and the clutch hose is gotten(fire fried that too) then i will start it...... again and find out some better temperatures...

now allan, do you still have that gun?
may be making a trip down to you this weekend to get some temps.... heat soak should occur in what 3 hours? if not before...

you all want answers, i can get the answers, and if i can't then someone else with the intakes can... not that there are alot of us!!!!!

 

The goal is to have the lowest intake air temperature increase as it traverses the intake. Surface temperatures will not provide this information.

To properly evaluate the intake air heating two measurements are required: ambient air temperature, and intake air temperature at the base of the runners (center section). Between these two readings the temperature rise of the intake air can be calculated. That is the value that matters.

The goal is to have the value of the increase in temperature from ambient to the base of the runners. The lower the better.

Measuring the ambient air temperature is easy, can use the current IAT or even a temperature probe in free air.

To measure the temperature at the base of the runners, drill and tap a small hole and insert a probe. Read and record or data log that value as the car is driven. For a probe I've used a small glass bead thermister and a 10-32 nylon screw. Drill two small holes through the length of the screw, insert the thermister leads through screw and install in runner. A little glue will seal the lead holes, shorten the screw to the thickness of the runner.

RBob.

 

thanks rbob, that is what i have been trying to say the whole time, but didn't know how i wanted to say it. as long as the intake charge isn't gaining heat from the intake itself, there is no problem, if it is gaining temp, then there is a problem, i believe that there won't be much change from ambient temp to air charge temp. the air is moving through there prety fast compared to the stock intake, so i think it will be 2 things:
1 cooler than stock,
2 faster than stock.

poeple make sheetmetal intakes all the time, that is steel, not alum. they work better than the cast aluminum intakes out there cause they like rbob says don't raise that charge temp as much, along with allowing more air to flow.

 

You just keep missing the point.

The point: The sensors and injectors will heatsoak an fail is much more previlant when instaslled on a steel intake. You have multikle sensors on the TB. Heat kills electronics.

Plus the fact that you are probably going to blister the frikin paint right off your hood- Fieros don't have steel hoods, they have that plastic sh*t.

My Edelbrock STB gets hotter than the top of my plenum and my hood is showing signs of paint trouble. Even with my dual Becool fans blowing over the motor, the engine compartment heatsoaks the STB with heat so hot you can't touch it more than 2 secs without pulling your hand away.

 

There has not been a single word from any user on failing sensors. And please explain this, since my intake is not powder coated, I run turbo (which adds to the air temp) and the plain old dupicolor silver on put on my intake looks fine. My GT is a daily driver and even with the turbo, I haven't replaced a single sensore. I also have a take-off on my intake and an operable EGR. Heat is only an issue because you think it is. Jsut look at the dyno numbers it works.