Today, i was stopped in traffic after a long hard run of the engine, and my oil light came on. I have a previous post regarding a low reading on my gauge.. i chalked that up to a bad sending unit, but unless the idiot light and the gauge use the same sending unit (i doubt it), i guess i was wrong. It doesnt knock, tick or show any other signs. For it to be bearing failure... wouldnt I hear it? Any advice is welcome.

 

Check the oil level.

 

I just changed the oil, checked it before and after the trip for good measure.. the oil level is fine, and the oil is still golden. I just bought this car, so i dont know how long this problem has been going on. The level, if anything , is a tiny bit above full.

 

I'd get a mechanical gauge, hook that up - to verify the oil pressure. If it reads none, then look toward a new oil pump

 

thanks for the reply. Tomorrow it's going to get inspected, get it's big red reject sticker, the go to the mechanic so he can change out the oil pump. I would do it, but I dont have a lift. Think I hurt anything running with low oil pressure for the week or so Ive been drving it? Still sounds good haha.

 

We have an oil light?

 

You've got a oil light and a gauge?

edit: thanks for the dash pic. Now I understand. I've never seen the Berlinetta dash before.

 

i have an oil light and a guage as well

it comes wit the starship dash option with the berlinetta



http://pages.prodigy.net/berlinetta/...5Page10-11.jpg

my guage doesnt work

 

hey what sending unit did you use to fix the guage on your berlinetta?

id like to have mine working

 

ya, the berlinetta has a light for everything! hahahah

 

even an "OK" light to let you know none of the other lights are on

 

ive never seen that one. What is the gauge to the left of the oil gauge, and 2 below the engine light? It looks like low coolant to me hahah... I cant get the damn thing to shut off, although I really havnt tried. to answer your question, I never replaced the sending unit... I used a mechanical and verified mine as correct...

 

bad news.. I hooked up my mechanical gauge... the oil pressure is very low after it heats up, not zero, but still very low. looks like my pump needs to be replaced

 

you try a thicker oil?

 

naw.. i'd rather fix the problem instead of just band aiding it.

 

Don't waste your time or money.
Leave it alone.
Use a bottle of 30-50 oil or 20-50 oil & see what happens. Yes drain out old stuff first or do this next oil change.
What ya got going on is loose tolerences.
That accounts for it "sounding good".
And at ilde it's low & at speed it picks up to about 30-40 PSI?
That's fine.
Use a bottle of thicker oil or oil suppliment & drive it until it dies.
WHAT YOU SHOULD BE NOW LOOKING FOR IS A 3.4 long block to swap in.
Cost of oil stuff is like $3-$8.
Labor cost & oil pump part is like $100-$175.
The 2.8 engine is old & aged. Find a replacement block, now.
3.4 latest best score is a 40,000 used long block for $650!
People have scored 3.4s for a low as $210.
I've been up to 211,500 miles on a 2.8. I got my moneys worth.
Low oil pressure & over heating its way to death until the 3.4 swap.
Toss in oil stuff & drive it until it dies.

 

Years ago...when the dually's oil pump went the engine blew... the shop was supposed to change the oil pump with the new engine and did not. Then they closed permenatly right before I reported the prob... They had replaced my motor with a Jasper... Well I called Jasper to report the prob. They had me take it to their repair facility. The few times the pressure fell in the dually's new motor was enought to throw some nice metal into the oil pan... so they replaced the motor again underwarrenty... installed the new oil pump this time. All was fine then! So I wuld not recommend messing around with a bad oil pump unless you are considering the 3.4 swap! You might really end up needing it!

 

the motor only has 70,000 on it! it should be fine in the bearing department. idk. I want to investgate the pump before I write this engine off. it could even be something as simple as a blocked screen on the pump. if it needs it, I'll change the pump myself.. do you need to lift the engine or can you drop the pan without. Thanks for your help/suggestions, but i cant be without this car from more then a few days, so unless it dies I cant afford to swap the engine. Good news? I have connections and can get a new engine for veeery cheap.

 

Read my response & thry that
Meaning it's way easier to do oil change than pump change.
At 70K you shouldn't have any problems.
Oil pan remove engine from engine mounts (as in raise it).
Start searching for a 3.4 long block thru your connections & make sure it'sa RWD version w/lowest miles. 1993-1995 is the object of years desired.
Give the quick fix a try befor ya go to labor.
If ya drop oil pan may as well remove the tranny to go after the other problem gaskets, rear main seal leak & also rear cam shaft seal leak, too.
And a new Timing chain, too. THEN if all is really "good" ya got mucho miles before anymore "repairs".

 

well, the car is in the mechanic's. We'll see what he says tomorrow.

 

im to lazy right now ,,but the motor has to come out to change the oil pump right,,,,,? on a 3.1?.....also could it be his pick up unit is clogged?

 

That's correct also.
Once had my broken off plastic timing chain gear teeth in my oil pump screen.
Anyone know if Original issued 60* timing chain gears also use plastic teeth?
My example was on my 1974 Chevy engine.

 

ok, I got it back from the mechanics. Runnin 10-40 and with a new oil pump i now have about 20-30 pounds at idle hot. Thanks for your help everybody.

 

The original chain gears I pulled out of my car were all metal...