ok, my money person called tonight. They didnt like my idea of ditching the car and finding something else. So I need to find out how much its gonna cost to rebuild this thing so they can decide

1. How much does it cost to have the block dipped/cleaned, whatever. New cam, crank bearings, honed, and new piston rings installed?


2. What else do I gotta get
a head gaskets
b intake gaskets
c tc/wp gaskets
d oil pan gasket
e head bolts
f exhaust gaskets
e oil pump
g antifreeze
h oil/filter

Whatever to rip my ac out and plug the lines.

 

www.napaonline.com
price rebuild kit
master gasket kit, i think its included in the rebuild kit. oil, filter, coolant, trans fluid, you may want to replace the clutch and slave cyl. while its out, its soooo much easier. dont worry about plugging off the whats left of the a/c if its not being used agian unless you really want to. put the lines and such for sale if theyre good., oh, water pump too., im going to the machine shop at napa to see what they can do with my heads, if i remember, i'll ask

 

rebuild? What happened? I thought you got it running good except for a SES code of some sort?

 

Northern Auto Parts: - Chevy 3.1-T Camaro/Firebird 90-92

about $430ish shipped for EVERYTHING new, cam and all that... Where did you get the MTC-5? If you picked it up from Autozone, tell them it was defective, and send that bad boy back.

Now, if you were to ask what I would do in your boat -

$133 for a re-ring kit from Northern Auto Parts. Just call them up, and tell them exactly what parts you want!

 

redbird, slave and clutch are less then a year old. But I did forget about trans fluid! Water pump is less then 2 years old. I want to pull the ac stuff because its not working, but "may" want to put it in later. Save weight for now

1989karr, negative. Go read my "while were away for commerical" thread.

Doward, cam is already swapped and a new one on my hatch But I still have to pay for a machine shop to install all this crap. Main thing is I need the block cleaned! All the oil gallys n crap.

I figured up last night almost 200 in gaskets, fluids, and oil pump

 

Dale, add a couple of cans of GM EOS (engine oil suppliment) to your list. Add a full can for initial break in and a half can at each oil change. Today's oils have less zinc in them which makes it hard on flat tappet cams.

If you don't mind some advice on flat tappet cam install: only use the dark gray moly paste on the cam and lifters. There is some others out there but are not as good. For the lifters do not get any on their sides, only the bottoms. The lifters need to spin in the bores, otherwise it is trouble. Use engine oil on the lifter sides.

During initial fit up oil the lifters and check that they move freely in their respective bores. A quick hone with a brake cylinder hone can be helpful.

Use regular 10-30W oil and a can of EOS for first startup and breakin. May consider blocking the file bypass valve in the oil filter adaptor. Pre-oil with the drill in the pump drive (do NOT crank it to pre-oil).

For the initial startup, set everything up as well as possible to get the engine to fire off immediately. Avoid excess cranking without the engine starting. Tighten the distributor enough so that it won't move on it's own, but can still be moved by hand. I usually have a timing light hooked up, it can come in handy.

As soon as the engine fires off bring the RPMs to 2,500 and hold it there for 20-30 minutes. This is required for flat tappets, rollers do not require this. You may need to twist the distributor a little to get the engine to run better. This is a feel thing. The timing should be around 30 - 38 degrees during the 2,500 RPM break in. If the exhaust manifolds start to glow add more timing.

Once the cam break in has completed let the engine down to idle, disconnect the EST and set the timing to 10 BTDC. Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST. Time for a beer.

During the break in will need to keep an eye on the oil pressure and coolant temperature. May need to attend to things such as topping off the coolant and keeping rags out of the fan (that's a funny, but I've seen it).

RBob.

 

Or for a little cheaper route, I use Rotella T SAE 30 diesel oil for my break in periods. Extremely robust additive package, and HDEO oil at that!

The re-ring kit, with rings, mains, rods, gaskets, is only $133 @ Northern Auto parts.

Forgot to mention - if you aren't running a good synthetic oil yet, DO IT. Mobil 1 is my preference

Otherwise, look for a good SL (NOT SM) rated oil... the SM rated oils have drastically lowered the zinc levels, making flat tappet cams very susceptible to lobe failure.

Personally, I'd go synthetic, and never look back.

 

the water pump is like 30 bucks, and if it has that crap plastic impeller, definetley replace it,one less thing to worry about, its better to do on an engine stand when theres no fluids to mess with.

 

mmm...ic ic. Keep us posted though

 

I see a problem here. I put paste on the sides of the lifters.

 

If that were the problem, you would have either wiped more than one lobe out, and chances are that it wouldn't be the same lobe as before.

 

We have a winner. I wiped 1 on the stock cam, I wiped 2 DIFFERENT ones on the mtc5.

 

Since I've been awol for months I have no idea what this is all about- but that sucks about the cam. If it makes you feel better, I probably would've smeared that paste all over everything too!

Did you ever find out cost for your item #1 above (hot tank/magnaflux/cam bearings/etc)? I had read in my GM 60-degree rebuild book that v8 cam bearings were suggested, but since they were a bit wider, the shop would have to be extra careful to make sure the oil holes lined up OK.

 

I called around and only found 2 reputable shops. One is the one I had do my heads and was not happy with.

short block rebuild was est 700-800. Both said there is no 3.4 rebuild kit available so it would be considered "custom job".

 

grab hold of a P.A.W catalog, they have 3.4 kits out there, and probably cheaper than even parts store.