Burnout
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 71
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From: Glenville, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: LB8, 2.8L V6
Transmission: t-5
Burnout
I did a search but didnt find what I wanted, although I didnt go through all the threads. Anyway, those of you who have a 2.8l w/a t-5, have you been able to get a nice sustained burnout? I cant seem to do it. What Ive tried so far is dropping anywhere from 4k-5k and getting them to slip, but then I cant get my foot over to the brake fast enough. Either Im moving too fast and I just press the brake all the way and it barely does anything or I dont have the throttle down far enough and it wants to stall. I was thinking of getting it rolling slow in 1st with my foot just above the brake, then slamming the gas (hopefully so they spin) and hitting the brake immediatly. Any suggestions?
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From: Highlands, NJ
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 3.4 outa 95' bird
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open rear
i have been able to get some good power brake burn outs on my 2.8 M5, just floor it and dump the clutch at like 5k, and hit the brake pedal, my car would still climb in rpms, i'd go to about 3/4 throttle, and i could play with the brake pedal to creep the car at like 1-5 mph while burning the tire ,although, im not too sure how my rear brakes look, i could smoke out my entire parking lot at work., going slow and flooring it will only work if you have some play in the rear end, and your tires are cold and you're on the right surface
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
hmm, what is the purpose of hitting the brake to do a burnout?...why not just floor it and peel out? (admittedly, i don't have a manual if that makes a difference)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally Posted by Crusin' 1980's
hmm, what is the purpose of hitting the brake to do a burnout?...why not just floor it and peel out? (admittedly, i don't have a manual if that makes a difference)
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 405
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From: South Florida (NW_Broward)
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4
With my auto I've only been able to spin em in the rain.
If I brake stall I can only get them to chirp if I let my foot slip off the brake at WOT.
If I just floor it with the gear selector in 1 it just goes... how embarrasing LOL.
Performance parts exist, you just have to be creative. Cams, headers, cats, exhaust, custom PROM, oversized pistons, underdrive pulleys, custom intakes... Lots isn't simple bolt in though.
If I brake stall I can only get them to chirp if I let my foot slip off the brake at WOT.
If I just floor it with the gear selector in 1 it just goes... how embarrasing LOL.
Performance parts exist, you just have to be creative. Cams, headers, cats, exhaust, custom PROM, oversized pistons, underdrive pulleys, custom intakes... Lots isn't simple bolt in though.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 238
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From: Redding, Ca
Car: 1988 Camaro, 1960 F-100
Engine: 2.8L V6, 223 inline 6
Transmission: TH-700R4, T98
Axle/Gears: 3.42/3.11 Posi Lock
why not just install a brake line lock / roll control for the front brakes.. One like from hurst ther easy to install and do a much better job.. Plus U wont burn up your rear brakes this way.. I have one in my 88 ...
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 71
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From: Glenville, NY
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: LB8, 2.8L V6
Transmission: t-5
I actually tried again today and was able to get a pretty good burnout going. Trick was I had to get a little braver and drop it just slightly above 5k. Was pretty easy after that. BTW I was on dry pavement, I did it once when it was wet and scared the **** outta myself and almost ended up in a ditch. I might look into a line lock, but I dont think Ill be doing it enough to make it worth the money. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 94
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From: stafford conn.
Car: 2002 ranger(showtruck) 90 firebird
Engine: 3.1l
Transmission: 700r4
do what i do in my ranger put your right heel on the brake and toes on the gas, then rev the engine to mid rpm and let the clutch out like you are taking off from a stop. dont ride the clutch too bad though or the smoke you get might really stink and be from something other than your tires. i do this cause its not a harsh slam on your drivetrain and i do burnout comps where you cant move out of a box and its easier than dumping the clutch and jumping on the brakes. practice a couple time and let us know how you do
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 830
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From: Kansas
Car: 85 camaro sport coupe
Engine: 2.8 MFI
Transmission: v6 700R4 wish it was a 5spd Stick
Axle/Gears: Stock non posi 3.42s
I used to have no problems doing burnouts in my car till i started fixing the Suspention. I dont do brake stands either thats to hard on an auto trans and Rear.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 133
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From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 89 Camaro RS, 99 Sunfire GT
Engine: 2.8L, 2.4L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
1 foot on the brake and the other on the gas. then after a while remove your foot from the brake and let the car peel out while still smoking the tires. Then you need new tires and you'll have to wash your car to remove the burnt rubber.
Realy it's cool the first time, the second time it's like flushing money down the toilet
Realy it's cool the first time, the second time it's like flushing money down the toilet
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
thats my biggest problem, i cant stop the tires from spinning. and that really hurts at the dragstrip. i used to think it was cool till i wanted lower times in the 1/4 mile, now its not so cool. just buy cooper cobras and you can do it all day long. cant wait till tomorrow when i get my new rubbers on.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
did somone say "cooper cobras"?
the hardest part of a stickshift burnout is getting it started, especialy in an "underpowered" car. you can start easy by puring some motor oil on the ground and rubbing it on your tires, easy to get them started that way.. then you have oil and rubber smokage. the oil burns off prety quick unless you use too much.
check out the huge smile on my face in that picture...
the hardest part of a stickshift burnout is getting it started, especialy in an "underpowered" car. you can start easy by puring some motor oil on the ground and rubbing it on your tires, easy to get them started that way.. then you have oil and rubber smokage. the oil burns off prety quick unless you use too much.
check out the huge smile on my face in that picture...
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 539
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From: Chico, CA
Car: 89 Firebird, 92 RS
Engine: 2.8L MPFI, 355 TPI
Transmission: t-5, t-5
Axle/Gears: open 3.42, posi 3.42
just put some 205's on the back and you shouldn't have much trouble. i know i had 255's on my auto and i couldnt even get a burnout going in the rain. tired-*** 230k mile 2.8, but still. khumo 245's on it now, its a stick now too, but i havent bothered trying. why struggle for a one tire fire when youve got 350 rwtq anxious to light up both rears on another car?
oh another trick is to try it on concrete and not asphalt. i do remember one time i got a burnout going on my auto on concrete, but asphalt no way.
oh another trick is to try it on concrete and not asphalt. i do remember one time i got a burnout going on my auto on concrete, but asphalt no way.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 409
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From: desert
Car: only GM,88 camaro, 91r/s camaro, 91
Engine: Clean oil, looks fresh, no leaks
Transmission: Bright Red, never burnt, no leaks
Axle/Gears: currently whining
now this is the good stuff
i took my camaro to pick my girl up from high school, and while in front parking lot, to show off i droped the clutch in the 2.8 and threw the throw out berring yea i looked bout retarded,.,.,.,.So i had it towed to my buddys shop and spent all nite trying to take the bell housing bolt off to get it down and replace what we thought was the clutch.,.,after 6 hours and 3 replacment socekts from A/Zone [the tough black steal ones] i managed to pull out the throw out berring and replace it with a nother one from a big ol chevy truck that i did a clutch job to when i compared them side by side they looked the same so i dunked it in a buckett of diesel fuel i keep on hand.,oh yea and boy was the old throw out berring shot,.,.i had to use a teliscoping magnat to pull all the bb's outa the housing.,,.to this day im
sure that that one last housing bold is welded on that m/f
sure that that one last housing bold is welded on that m/f
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