timing chain?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 186
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: v6-173-2.8L
Transmission: Automatic
timing chain?
Have a problem with my car dying, hesitating, rough idles and all together tough to drive. I had a error code for O2 sensor so I had it replaced. Got a code for low voltage for TPS, what should I do about this? My biggest question is the timing chain. I don't think its ever been replaced, should I replace it, will it make a difference? My timing has never changed always locked at 13. Any suggestions.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 405
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From: South Florida (NW_Broward)
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4
If your car has over 100,000 miles on it, and you aren't absolutely sure it's been done, it's due. It involves setting the engine to #1TDC on the compression stroke, pulling the water pump (which also involves possibly pulling the power steering pump (just the bracket you don't need to pull the pulley)), crank pulley (4 13MM bolts 1 *17MM* (I think) bolt - you'll need to pull the flywheel cover and wedge something onto the flywheel) - harmonic balancer (needs a special puller), several bolts on the timing chain cover, then you can see the set - 2 gears and a chain that *should* be lined up, provided you set the engine to #1TDC as above. Double roller chain set is better but you'll need to remove the tensioner for that one, and possibly modify the cover. If you don't ask for anything special they'll give you a single sleeve type set that will wear out in 30k miles. Get a timing set and a gasket kit that includes the "crankshaft snout repair sleeve" aka "harmonic balancer repair sleeve". Or buy that piece seperately. Tap that on the end of the crankshaft before you put back the harmonic balancer for a renewed sealing surface. It prevents a possible oil leak from that area.
Note, if you set the engine to #1TDC on compression, your rotor should be pointing *EXACTLY* at #1. If its off then your chain has skipped a tooth.
That your timing is rock solid at 13* indicates its probably good for now, good insurance to replace it while you have the motivation, saves later headaches.
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TPS is easy to check/replace. Its up on the throttle body right at the other side of where the throttle hooks up. 3 wire connector, theres plenty of posts about it, search is your friend. ~0.6V at idle and ~4.5V at WOT, check to make sure though.
Note, if you set the engine to #1TDC on compression, your rotor should be pointing *EXACTLY* at #1. If its off then your chain has skipped a tooth.
That your timing is rock solid at 13* indicates its probably good for now, good insurance to replace it while you have the motivation, saves later headaches.
----------
TPS is easy to check/replace. Its up on the throttle body right at the other side of where the throttle hooks up. 3 wire connector, theres plenty of posts about it, search is your friend. ~0.6V at idle and ~4.5V at WOT, check to make sure though.
Last edited by bobdole369; Apr 20, 2006 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Cloyes makes a true dual roller set (chain and sprockets) for the 2.8/3.1; Summit carries it. Bought mine back in '99 for $90 or so; I changed the chain set at 180,000 miles.
DON'T use the center bolt of the crank pulley to install the balancer!! I destroyed my crank snout's threads by doing that. My balancer's been welded to my crank since that job. Use the proper tool (eastwoodco.com carries it) or bang it on with a hammer & block of wood.
DON'T use the center bolt of the crank pulley to install the balancer!! I destroyed my crank snout's threads by doing that. My balancer's been welded to my crank since that job. Use the proper tool (eastwoodco.com carries it) or bang it on with a hammer & block of wood.
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