ive done searches but i cant seem to find any info...i want to remove the ac system on my 88 2.8l sport coupe, just need some tips on how to do it, ive never done it before but considering it blows hot, and i got t tops, i dont need the extra weight and friction. is it something a novice should do himself or what...what kind of belt would i need once i take out the ac, i was thinking about throwing this 60 dollar set of 2 pulleys summit has for it on in the process...

 

usually they sell accessory belts without A/C

For environmental issues you might want to drain the fluid into a bottle and dispose of it appropriately.

Ive only ever removed it from the tower to the compressor.
2 wrench's did it for me but just make sure you use the fill valve to drain as much as you can controlled.

For now you might want to consider keeping it on and just getting a belt to bypass it and see if you like the gains.

 

Are you just trying to get it off the serp setup? Or remove everything and put it a non-ac heater box? I just did mine, it took probably 30-45 minutes for everything, including removing the radiator to take out the smaller radiator looking thing that connects to the AC. I havent put in the delete pulley yet, but they arent too bad in price and only 3-4 bolts.
Heres a pic of where im at, just have the wiring left to do.

 

Before on the left, After on the right. You can see it cleans everything up nice, and is supposed to free up 42 lbs. It should look a lot better once I get the pulley, and I'm assuming its the same for 2.8 as it 5.0? Correct me if I'm wrong, its still just nuts and bolts in the end.

 

I was able to get just a smaller belt for my camaro instead of a delete pully

 

[For environmental issues you might want to drain the fluid into a bottle and dispose of it appropriately.

Well you don't "drain the fluid into a bottle"

.....Refrigerant is a compressed gas, and would come out with a great jet engine type sound in a white cloud!

I suspect, however, that if your system is blowing hot air it has over time leaked out all the refrigerant somewhere.

Do a on the "Cooling" board- there is likely a sticky about this.

As far as wieght reduction, it has been posted many times the entire system wieghs about 60-70 lbs- thats every component. As far as drag on the engine, unless the clutch is engaged you are not using any real measureable horsepower, though I am sure some "expert" will chime in and tell me different.

 

Well, how about a surprise and someone telling you that you are exactly right!?!? Mine didn't work for the last 5 years, but instead of ripping it all out, I replaced everything and converted to R134, I havn't loved my daily driver this much since I got it.

 

there isnt much drag on the system, but as far as draining it, chances are that there isnt any freon left in it anyway, just open the sheader valves really quick to see if there is any left, and as far as draining it, the PROPER way is to hook up the HVAC pressure guages and put one hose into a bucket of water and let the gas disperse into the water, you cant get in trouble for venting it into the atmosphere unless your HVAC certified, in which case they revoke your certification.

 

One person on here has said that they could get a belt to stretch across w/o getting an ac delete pully.

But most others get the ac delete pully. IMO, that pully cost almost as much as it would to fix the ac. So mines still on tell I can find that pully cheap. Then I'd like to ditch it all

 

Dale, couldn't you fabricate one up with a "spare" alternator pulley or something? Or an AIR pump delete pulley?

Like Eric said, if the a/c unit is blowing hot air then there's probably no refrigerant left; check it out with an R12 gauge set- or I'm sure a mechanic could check it for free (tell them your a/c blows hot, is it just refridgerant, could they please check because you want a price on how much to fix- they might "smell business" and not charge you for the 5 minutes labor).

But I suggest having the pressure checked because if there is pressure, you could get hurt when you unhook the pipes.

Plus, R12 is expensive- and mechanics do get $$ for recovering it. If there is still pressure and you ask the mechanic to drain the R12 out, he should be paying YOU for it.

 

Friend of mine did that on a 96 c1500. He used a smooth pully, when it should have been ribbed. You can watch the belt "wiggle" on the pully. Dont like it myself. I'm sure if I could get time to hunt the yard, I could find something.

As well, If I dont do the heater only box, I want something to cap the lines off. Finding them threads could be interesting.

 

I was able to use small adjustable freeze plugs to cap off my coolant hose delte thing, but that was on the 3800, and I don't have any 2.4/3.4 parts left to compare for that

 

where can i find a delete pulley bc i cant get any belt to work without them touching at the top of the water pump...if i cut the A I R Out can i just weld or cap off the line comming off of the exhaust manifold?

 

Dealer, ebay, maybe the parts section here, junk yard, or as tom above said, create your own.