This is the sequence I used to do half of the valve's, thanks Dale.

Here are a few questions. 1. do I turn it a full turn and a half or just half a turn. If so with the 1 full turn and a half I adjusted the 3 ex. and after I got it to spin no more I could only get 3/4 of a turn out of it before it stopped.
2. Is the number 4 cly at TDC or the rotor pointing to the #4 spot on the cap or is that the same? I have all the spark plugs out so it will be easy to tell if the piston is up all the way. 3. When I pulled the #5 plug out it looked as though it had never fired.

I tried the lifting on the pushrod and that didn't work for me. Man are my fingers sore from turning them. I did notice that when I got the PR to stop turning I would wiggle the rocker a little bit and it would spin some more. I would repeat this same process until the rocker wouldn't wiggle and the PR wouldn't turn. Then I turned it 1 and half more turns.

Am I doing this right?

1. Install pushrod properly, and install rocker, pivot ball, nut

2. rotate engine until mark on torsional damper lines up with 0 timing mark with engine being in #1 piston firing position.

3. In #1 FIRE position, adjust Exhaust valves 1,2,3. Intake valves 1,5,6.

4. Adjust tell all lash is removed (do this by spinning pushrod with fingers) and then turn nut 1.5 turns more

5. rotate engine to #4 fire, 0 timing mark.

6. In #4 FIRE position, adjust Exhaust valves 4,5,6. Intake 2,3,4.

7. Adjust lash (see sequence 4)

 

I found in the haynes manual on how to do it and that didn't work. It says do the lift test until you can't lift it anymore, then turn the PR until you feel a slight drag and then turn 3/4 turn. I had a few rockers that I could move so far and then pull the pushrod out. This sucks!! I was not meant to be a mechanic!

 

If you tightened it down in the correct order, then it should be fine. It sounds like you did it in the wrong order. Make sure you are doing the right rocker at the right time. Sometimes people mistake the intake rocker for the exhaust and vise versa.

If you do it right, you should have no movement when the spring is relaxed.

Have you had the front cover off yet and looked at the timing chain? I would suggest that and line up the dots on the gears, that way you know you're at TDC on #1

 

So How would you adjust the lifters? I figured which was exhaust and intake.
The rocker thats closest to the ex is the ex lifter. Not hard.

 

what it sounds like youre doing is letting the lifter bleed down and tightening it again. what you have to do is tighten it till it stops turning then a half turn. it is eventually gonna become loose a lil again because the oil is leaking out of the lifter (bleeding down). you have basically pushed the valves all the way open now. take them all loose, take the lifters out, soak them in oil and push the plunger in to let oil get back in and do it again. but once it stops turning, dont wait and check it again.

and i dont go by the haynes manual. i just bring each cylinder up on TDC and adjust them that way. start w/ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. thats how ive always done it, never fails.

 

I recommend for the novice, to use the up & down method. Just go up & down with the pushrod till it stops moving (giggling), that's zero lash. Then go 3/4 turn. Reason is that not everyone has the same feel to spin them.

 

how many turns do you use when you find 0 lash, dave?

 

3/4 turn

and youre supposed to adjust till it stops going up and down, then till it stops turning. you can get a good 1/4 turn more by going till it stops turning, which could be the difference between a lil noise in the first second or two of start up, been there. i had to pull my valve covers back off and a couple were just slightly loose. turn the ratchet (or whatever) with one hand and twist w/ two fingers, as soon as it stops turning, stop and go another 3/4 turn.