fuel filter replacement, what tool to use?
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
fuel filter replacement, what tool to use?
I'm using a line wrench on the fuel filter nut & a open end on the end closest to the carb, to hold it in place . I can't get it loose, I don't want to strip it.
So..... any ideas?
So..... any ideas?
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: lakewood colorado
Car: 84-92 firebirds
Engine: 2.8/3.1
Transmission: auto
Where are all these '84 thirdgens coming from all of a sudden? Anyway, you're on the right track, the nut is going to need some persuasion to break free. Try spraying the fuel line connection with WD40, let sit for 5 minutes or so, then apply firm steady pressure. Careful of your knuckles when it breaks free.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 510
Likes: 5
From: Santiago, CHILE
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: The famous 700R4
Axle/Gears: No idea
Puffff! Too hard.
In my FWD V6 I used 1/2 - 3/4 WD40 can, gloves, 1/2 - 1 labour hour, a big steerson wrench capable to make force against the stupid nut, an open end wrench and a snap pliers (named "cayman" here) because the fuel line could turns attached to the nut.
Good luck.
Denis V.
In my FWD V6 I used 1/2 - 3/4 WD40 can, gloves, 1/2 - 1 labour hour, a big steerson wrench capable to make force against the stupid nut, an open end wrench and a snap pliers (named "cayman" here) because the fuel line could turns attached to the nut.
Good luck.
Denis V.
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Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z / 1992 Corvette
Engine: 305 TPI / LT1
Transmission: 700R4
yeah, I've already experinced the twisting fuel line adventure. Finally found a replacement at a wrecking yard that was in good shape. I don't want to mess this one up.
Did they make the fuel nut in a stronger metal? It seems pretty soft for what it does.
Did they make the fuel nut in a stronger metal? It seems pretty soft for what it does.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 229
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From: Cheyenne, WY
Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Invest in a can of PB Blaster...
It's a anti-rust catalyst... the best product on the market.
WAY better than kerosene-based WD-40.
It's about $4.50 / unit... but, way worth it !
It's a anti-rust catalyst... the best product on the market.
WAY better than kerosene-based WD-40.
It's about $4.50 / unit... but, way worth it !
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
For what its worth.. this wasn't on an F-body, it was on an old Mercury Zephyr, but- same thing, carb line froze to the filter housing. Trying to get the two separated was turning the tube nut and filter housing into a mess- and it wasn't my car, so I got a little worried.
Instead, I was able to loosen that line by the fuel pump! So I unhooked that whole fuel line (pump-to-filter-housing). Then I brought it all down (the fuel line attached to the filter housing) to the workbench. That's where I put the filter housing in the vise, a LARGE open-ended adjustable wrench on the tube nut, and tapped the wrench with a hammer. It loosened up, I changed the filter, AND i put some anti-sieze on the threads of both tube nuts before putting the line back into the car.
I prefer the LARGE (12 inch to 15 inch) adjustable wrenches because the thicker jaws seem to work better on tube nuts. Plus, if the tube nut has rusted away a bit, your flarenut wrench may not fit tightly.
Its gotten so that I never touch my flarenut wrenches anymore unless the line is brand new and rust-free.
And hey you could always go aftermarket and get AN fittings and stainless braided hose if the line gets really bad!
Instead, I was able to loosen that line by the fuel pump! So I unhooked that whole fuel line (pump-to-filter-housing). Then I brought it all down (the fuel line attached to the filter housing) to the workbench. That's where I put the filter housing in the vise, a LARGE open-ended adjustable wrench on the tube nut, and tapped the wrench with a hammer. It loosened up, I changed the filter, AND i put some anti-sieze on the threads of both tube nuts before putting the line back into the car.
I prefer the LARGE (12 inch to 15 inch) adjustable wrenches because the thicker jaws seem to work better on tube nuts. Plus, if the tube nut has rusted away a bit, your flarenut wrench may not fit tightly.
Its gotten so that I never touch my flarenut wrenches anymore unless the line is brand new and rust-free.
And hey you could always go aftermarket and get AN fittings and stainless braided hose if the line gets really bad!
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 510
Likes: 5
From: Santiago, CHILE
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: The famous 700R4
Axle/Gears: No idea
Ah, and be careful with your fingers. When the nut loose, your hand attached to the wrench will accelerate from 0 to 100 mph in ..... 1/2 second and: AAAAAAAAUCCCHHH.
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