TheLegedaryErin

As I rule I change my Oil every three mouths, three thousand miles, or when ever I get bored. In my camaro I run the wall mart brand Tech 2000 and a standard Fram Filter 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. Now I recommend better oils for people who have cars with motors in better shape them mine when I do oil changes for them. I have never had any problems with doing things this way. Keeps the Oil clean, the filter unplugged, Air filters fresh and the front end greased.

I have been hearing a lot people who don't believe in regular oil changes some going years with out one. They argue the big scam perpretrated my quick change oil Places and oil manufacturing companies. Many of these people pay no head to the countless, Mechanics, back yard mechanics, engine re-builders I have talked to who have said that regular oil changes and tune ups are the best way to keep a engine in the best shape for the longest (aside from Lack of abuse). One person I have talked to has claimed to have rebuilt over 300 motors from different makes and claims that he can tell the difference between a regularly maintained motor and one not maintained by the shape of the rings and cylinder walls.

Well, Quick flight over the forest here. How often do you change your oil, What oil do you use, Do you use an additive, and What filter do you use...

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

in the rs
castrol sae 50 in the summer 20-40 in the winter
ac delco filters only
every 2,500 miles
every engine ive built and used the stuff in and have taken back apart 30-50,000 hard miles later and all the parts look just about brand new

leeperryracing

Royal Purple + K&N filter.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Every 3k, rotate my tires and change the oil/filter. My truck has 183k on it (4.6 modular F150) with a cool air intake and cat-back exhaust and will still beat a 2004 . Problem is it's a Ford and I'm working on the third tranny rebuild . Rotating the tires regularly, I have been getting almost 50k mi out of a set of four that costs $420 mounted and balanced with lifetime roadhazard warr and free lifetime balance/rotation. I use high mileage synthetic blend at a local tire store, costs $25 and it's 10w30 (FL we use the same weight year-round )

TheLegedaryErin

Since there is such responce, What About other fluidids Like Antifrease, ATF, power steering, Brake and Trans and diff fluid?

Kevman

I use Quakerstate 10W30 with some risloan to stop the leak with a Fram filter.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ac delco filters anymore. Use to use fram tell almost every single filter crushed on me while taking them off. Even my old dodge, I used delco filters.

Oil, Valvoilne, Usually 10w30 or 10w40 depending on which car.

Intervials. Usually 3-5k. I feel some cars could go longer. The GTP, after 5k I can feel a power difference in an oil change. Length between oil changes IMO depends on how the car is drove. Nice highway miles.... you can go longer. In town stop n go, towing stuff, 3k.

Other fluids, I run synthetic anymore(brand varys). Anti-freeze I try to always run prestone.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Delco filters, STP filters are good as well. You just need to cut them apart and see the inside to change your mind. Fram filters have a CARDBOARD by-pass valve that makes some engines cranky...

I like Valvoline oil. I use thicker stuff (SAE 30, 40, or even 50 in the summer heat) with high mileage engines. I use full synthetic if it is new or like new.

I have pulled the heads on an engine that ran Mobil 1 since new with 118,000 miles on it and I couldn't see ANY wear at all. It was amazing. The synthetic seems to slip past my worn out oil seals on the old stuff, though.

I do 3000 mile oil changes. 6 months if I haven't been driving enough to get my mileage.

I have used slick 50 before and the only thing I saw at teardown was a lot of small crystal type powder on the bearings, kind of like sugar. No excessive wear due to the powder, it was just there. I have also used Lucas additive and it has quieted some small rattles and bangs so I do use it in all of my cars now.

di11avou

iTrader: (1)

I use Valvoline 10w-30 oil. For oil filters I get either Wix or Napa Gold. My change intervals are a little weird since I don't drive my car a lot. I always make sure I don't go over 3,000 miles, but I"ll let it slide a little on months depending how the oil looks.

If I ever get a car with fewer miles on it, I'll probably switch to Mobile 1.

88trans_am_gta

mobile one 5-w30 in the buick with a ac/delco filter. for the gta i use mobile 1 with a mobile 1 filter. been thinking about trying royal purple in the gta, but idk. im **** on the 3 month change though, since my two cars never see three thousand miles in three months.

91 camaro racer

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=im **** on the 3 month change though, since my two cars never see three thousand miles in three months.[/QUOTE]
yeah same here i have had the car for 2.5-3 years and only put 13000 miles on it the whole time and it is my daily driver!!

85irocz355tpi

I was told by a GM engineer once that his top choice is Mobil. I run mobil 5000 5w30 in my cutlass and mobil1 10w30 in my iroc with a new 355. I also run ac delco filters. I also know that fram filters are junk the next time u buy a filter pull it out of the box and compare the return holes with any other brand. The fram ones are to small. I noticed a 10 psi boost in oil pressure changing from a fram to delco. Also Wal-Marts super tech non synthetic oil is made by mobil. so if you want a good cheap oil change run that. Not all wal-marts carry it though compare the bottles to the mobil if they look the same they are the same. If not they are made by kendall

Alphius

iTrader: (6)

I use cheapo 10w40 from NAPA, since mine all leaks onto the ground anyway...

As far as oil changes, I subscribe to the continuous oil change philosophy, since it's leaking, I just top it off every once in a while. Some days, if I'm really bored, I'll change it just because I know it does need to be done sometime.

Seriously though, I just cannot get to the part of the motor that's leaking with the motor still in the car, and it's such a small leak that it doesn't really matter. If I built my own motor, or had one that wasn't almost worn out, I'd probably care more about regularly changing the oil, and running the expensive stuff through it. Until then...

tnt_viper

My camaro. I change the oil the moment it comes out of storage and again if I do more then 5000 KMs...wich I dont do in one summer with the car.
I use 10W30 synthetic oil by Quaker state, with an AC delco filter.

My neon. I change the oil every 5000kms if I feel like it...the last one I did after I did over 10 000kms, I only did cause I burned most of my oil...ya I'm burning oil now, and it's been 1500kms and I havent checked my oil yet.
I use whatever the cheapest oil my part store has, 10W30 in the summer and 5W30 in the winter. (PS. I hate that car)

My gf's civic. Oil is changed every 5000km's. Castrol 10w30 for summer and 5w30 in winter. and ac delco filter.

(my parts supplier is mostly AC delco and they only have AC delco and castrol oil, thats the only reason why I use it...cause I can get it for cheap....but the camaro is special, so it gets different oil )

G8T8A

I just can't get into the "every three months" regardless of mileage. I did that once with my '72 GP out of paranoia. I felt real stupid as I watched what appeared to be gold honey draining down into my filthy catch can. I now change it based on the appearance and feel when I run the oil between my fingers.

I've always run Castrol in my cars. My LS1 used to get rotated between Castrol 10W-30 and Mobil 1 10W-30 depending on what kind of use I thought the engine would see over the next 3-4K miles. Since I found the ~$22 or so jugs of Mobil 1 at Walmart, I have stuck with M1 in the LS1. The oil in my GTA is Castrol's syntec blend 10W-30. I need to change it, and I will try the "high mileage" grade this time. My pressure is fine with 10W-30, so I will stick with it.

I use Delco filters.

Kevman

I changed it a few weeks ago when I noticed that it was running like crap. Runs good now, still slow though...

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Regardless of the color, the viscosity still breaks down with age, but I don't do the 3 month rule either (I wonder if the oil companies came up with this to get you to buy more, it sits on the shelf for 3mos or more, lol).

Castrol GTX is what I use and get it for $13/5.5qt jug from Pepboys. Last filter was Fram (in the Firebird).

2_point8_boy

That's why you should change it every 3 months, because of the heat and cehmicals involved in combustion, it breaks down the oil. For example, if I only drove my car back and forth to work on a 5 day/week basis, I would only put 840 miles on my car every 3 months. That's 7 miles, twice a day, for 5 days over a 12 week period. Not nearly the 3000 miles they recommned, but it's the warm up cycles that wears on an engine and oil, not so much the time.

G8T8A

If the oil is clean in appearance and feel, and the pressure at hot idle hasn't degraded due to viscosity breakdown, I'm keeping it in. But that's just me.

I do agree with the repeated warmup cycles wearing on the oil. When I drive my cars, I make sure they get hot to burn off as much condensation as possible. If I drove my GTA in the intervals and mileage you state above, I'd probably end up changing it more often. It's more of a garage queen these days. My GP gets fired up about once every three months.

vortecRS

really i never keep track of my miles i just do it when i think it needs it. in my 2.8 i ran penzoil 10w-30 with stp oil treatment fram filter. in my 4.3 nappa gold 10-40 with napa gold filter.

my frend has a 97 gmc truck and it has the original oil filter ina like 5-6 oil changes any my frend toyota wich has 230 thousand on it and 3 oil changes but i wouldnt do that to mine so

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

the inside of your friends motors must look like black crusty burned campfire marshmallows. or perhaps his train of though in doing this.

vortecRS

yeah deffinatly not goof for it but he dosnt care aperantly. i hurd that engine restore dose nothing at all

TexasSilhouette

iTrader: (4)

Amsoil 0W-30 with Amsoil or WIX filter. Changed every 25 - 35K miles.

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

A business associate of mine did something like that to his Toyota 4Runner, never changed the oil the entire time he owned it, went to 80k or so and took a dump. Cost him a couple of grand because he doesn't have much mechanical knowledge (especially apparent with his oil change intervals, lol).

vortecRS

lol thats what his is but his is goin strong still dont know how or why but

FireBirdKnight

i like valvoline syn blend high mileage and a touch of lucas

ossseo28

that sounds like what my car does, is your leaking from the oil pan area? cant tell were mine is, just no its somewere cramped. was just wondering

xiholdtruex

valvoline 60 and lucas oil stab ftw on my rs with 200,000 miles on the engine,for a lower mileage engine like my 88 prelude si which has 140,000 i use royal purp ftw

ohiotemplar

I use 3 quarts of 5w-30 Royal Purple year round and I throw in a quart of lucas oil additive. I used to use fram oil filters until I read this post - I will be switching to AC Delco.

Once a year I will put a pint of Seafoam engine/fuel system treatment in my 3,000 mile old oil and drive it 50 miles. Then I will drain it and change the filter. Fill it up with 75cent motor oil from dollar general (4 quarts) and then overfill it with quart of GUNK motor flush. - Then let it idle for 10 minutes after getting fully warm. - - Then I will drain it - put on a second new filter and the RP and Lucas. You would not believe the nast sludge that comes out of the engines. I'm new to camaros but my 93 (2nd gen) Ford probe was still running strong when I sold it at 330,000 miles with the original engine - no rebuilds. there are still guys on my probe forum who don't believe me. LOL

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

My dad was one to never service a car. He still doesn't. He bought a 1966 Bonnieville coupe with a 421, three duces, factory air car, never changed the oil. It ran 86k and blew out the rear main seal. He had the old girl rebuilt, and drove it another 60K, never changed the oil, and it blew another rear main. By that time the paint was faded, and she was rusting around the back glass. She sat in the yard for a year and was hauled off for junk. Mom had a 1966 Chrysler New Yorker coupe with a 440, auto with a floor shifter, factory air, and she ran 216K on four oil changes. The Mopar also did a year in the yard, then off to the junk yard. Are you'all sick yet? They also managed to destroy a 66 Nova, 396, 4 speed, and a 67 Mustang 289, four speed in a pretty similiar manner. As for my oil change habits, I use Castrol GTX, Fram filters, and change oil at 3000 miles or 6 months. My T/A gets about 1000 miles a year, so that's only about 500 miles to an oil change. My daily driver is a 97 P-74 Crown Vic, which gets 12K a year, so obviously it never sees six months. Same for my wife's 05 M-74 Grand Marquis. My winter truck a 87 Ramcharger AW150 sees about 300 miles during the summer months, but gets about 2500 miles during the winter. The F-350 Diesel gets Rotella T and is changed every six months. It gets about 5500 miles a year, all highway. I use all Ford filters on it. Charles

TexasSilhouette

iTrader: (4)

That is over the top, WAY over the top man. :-)

ohiotemplar

Mission Accomplished

xiholdtruex

Very possible,i work for dominos pizza and all the drivers there have cars with around 250,000-300,000 miles on them and they use cheap oil and a cheap filter yet there cars still run fine,there was one with a probe with 296,000 miles on it to still running fine.

ohiotemplar

crazy stuff...

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

In reply to the pizza delivery driver, this is merely an observation, not based in any science. I have noticed over the years that vehicles that are driven a lot of miles in a short period of time seem to be able to get a lot more mileage from thier vehicles then vehicles driven short distances. Case in point. I worked for a delivery service, we each owned our own vans. It was not unusual for all of the vans, regardless of the make, to run 350K to 400K miles between overhauls. Most of us would buy a new van about every 5 years, put 80K or so a year on it, then when we bought a new one we kept the current van as a back-up. Another case in point, drivers who delivered RV's around the country, with one-ton pick-ups, some diesel, and some gas, averaging 400K between overhauls. One friend of mine runs a 99 Power Stroke with 750K on the original engine. He uses the Delo diesel oil and changes it at 15K intervals with Ford Filters. An enginner friend with GM says that this is because these high use engines do not suffer the effects of cold starts and warm up which he says severely shortens the life of an engine. Charles

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

I`ve had several friends over the years brag to me that they never do preventative maintenance or service their vehicles. I have to laugh at them when they call me for a ride when they break down or they are buying another car after a few years and less than 100k on the odometer while I do the work and maintain my cars and get over 300k with no problems and have only had 1 breakdown in 40+ years. I change my oil depending on my driving habits. When the oil starts to change color, I change the oil and filter. One thing I do that I have not seen anyone else do is I fill the oil filter before I install it. Before I started doing that, I used to hear the lifters "rattle" until they got oil. For normal driving, any brand of oil and filters and other fluids are ok with me, the main thing is to change them and keep the levels up.

ohiotemplar

I agree about the brands not being that much different for normal driving - but I still use the RP b/c I get noticably better gas mileage with it. One thing I should mention though - if you're going to do a motor flush - for some reason synthetic never cleans the engine very well. I have figured this out by simply dropping the oil pan and seeing what's in it after diff experimental flushes. When I flush with synthetic there is noticable amounts of sludge still in the pan under the screen. When I flush with valucraft, it seriously looks like new metal in there. Just to clarify, I'm talking about my previous 7 cars - I'm a camaro noob.

xiholdtruex

from what i have heard a engine flush is bad for the engine since its use to running like that.i also heard that if you have a high miles on a engine like my camaro that has around 200k it is bad to switch to synthetic is this true???

86WS6

iTrader: (1)

I never use any additives or flush out my engines, just change the oil and filter regularly, and there has never been a problem. I had a 74 Chevy van with 245K miles on the 350 when we had it rebuilt, you could still see the bottom of the oil pan. No Sludge! An old time flush, that I have used with if I buy a car that has been poorly maintained, is to drain the oil and filter, refill with fresh oil and one quart of ATF. Run it about 500 miles then change the oil and filter again. You will be amazed what comes out of an old engine like that. The ATF is not hard on the seals like some of the commercial flushes. I have always heard that if your rings are weak, the ATF can wash out the carbon, and cause the compression to drop, but I have not seen this happen. One quart of ATF is also good to quiet a sticky lifter. And of-course never overfill. Charles

ohiotemplar

I've never heard that exactly - but I was told never to switch to synthetic and then back to conventional in a high mileage... not sure why.

xiholdtruex

from what ive been told since synthetic oil has more aditives it can make a car with alot of miles start to leak and i have that flushes clog things idk why but thats what my dad told me,i wanted to switch to some royal purple in teh camaro but im not sure if its safe what do you guys think????

ohiotemplar

When I got mine it had conven. valvoline. I switched to Mobil one syn and had no increase in mileage. That's why I'm sticking with RP from now on. 400 times greater film strength and I get about 10% better mileage with it. Always have anyway. I haven't tested it in my v6 yet. As far as flushing clogging things up, I would NEVER do it on a high mileage engine that's never been flushed in it's life. And that's why I run a pint of seafoam for awhile before a flush - it loosens everything up. If your car is old flushing will probably make it leak - but only if it has defective seals and gaskets that are too old anyway. And that's what the lucas oil additive is for, it conditions and swells old seals. I would rather have a clean running engine with no sludge than worry about oil leaks that I can fix with a bottle of lucas. I say use the RP. You'll get better mileage and they claim a 5% increase in hp over other syn oil and a 9% increase over conventional. I can't test that without access to a dino - but if anyone can I'd like to know how it goes.

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

xiholdtruex, there have been several posts in the past few months about people making the switch to synthetic from conventional oil on high mile motors and they all had problems with the engine smoking a lot after making the switch. Check out the old posts and the info should be there. I was going to switch but after reading about the problems I am staying with conventional.

Toehead

It doesnt make it leak... It cleans the deposits which are holding the failed seals together. (which is not really a bad thing)

ohiotemplar

This is exactly what I said. Wouldn't you want to know if something was wrong instead of just driving an engine so dirty it stopped some oil from leaking out? And if you're not into engine additives, let me tell you, lucas is safe and reliable stuff. I use it in all my cars including my brand new car with great results. Just give it a try.

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Most of the "engine smokes now, never did before" comments about using synthetic in high mileage cars that only ran conventional oil was tracked down to worn valve seals. Yes, it can make high mile cars smoke and/or leak but I would rather mine did not so I will stay with conventional old Mobile Clean 5000 and make the switch when I rebuild, another 100k miles I hope. I have used both types of oil over the years and never noticed a difference except in my wallet.

Kevman

xiholdtruex

i dont think lucas is so good after all.....http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm look at this test i dont think i will be using lucas anymore just straight 60 valvoline should be fine for me

ohiotemplar

That's really interesteing, but the proof is in the experience of using it. There is a huge diff between a rig someone makes in thier shop and the guts of an engine. Engines lubricate themeselves excellntly from the factory. I use lucas to condition old rubber and cork seals. It swells them and makes them stronger. Stops leaks. Increases compression. I've heard of some people putting in really heavy weight oil to do this. Only thing is, heavy weight motor oil makers won't fix your engine if you blow a seal, lucas claims they will. Plus, how did "bob the oil guy" decide how much to put into his experiment? I doubt that one quart would be enough to dillute the antifoaming agents in an entire engine full of oil.

JT TZER

Im at about 93k on my 2.8 Maro and was considering the use of High Mileage motor oil and looking at the additives (Lucas, RP, etc. . . ) and the car, ever since i have owned it, has had Delco parts installed because i am a tech at a Chevrolet dealer. No one in this day and age, even at the dealership, know a damn thing about 3rd gen camaro's that run everyday and i come to you guys on your suggestions. I did a head gasket job and all new gaskets back in the spring, and im just looking to get a little more comfortable with the car and prolong her life. I know it takes the Delco PF46 or PF47, one of those two, but what time of motor oil and additive is recomended and how much of each since the car takes something like 4 QT's of oil?