Hey guys last night i was at a red light i decided to give the people behind me a show of smoke soooo, I did and i had the pedal to he floor, and when i had the pedal to the floor after about i dunno 500 -1,000 ft the car sputtered and then wouldn't accelerate. So i pulled off to the side and i couldn't rev the engine, and when i push the pedal down it would stall out. So (this is the sad part) my dad didn't wanna call a tow truck so he pushed me home and my bumper needs work, but thats the least of my problems.

Ok i found out I'm getting too much gas not enough air. I don't no much about gas/air mixture with computers. What sensor(s) would give me too much gas and no air. Please help.

I took out a plug and it reeked of gas was black and wet.

 

bump

 

I would start by checking your maf and O2 sensors

 

Wet plugs indicate too much fuel, not enough spark...

I think you may have just flooded it out by overloading the engine. What you did was like going up a steep hill in high gear instead of low gear. Eventually you lug the engine enough to flood and bog the engine until it dies. Most of the time you can kick it into neutral and clear the flood but you didn't make it. If you clean your plugs (or just change them) you'll probably be fine.

Make sure you check your oil as well. You'll have a tendency to put gasoline in the oil when it's flooded.

 

well now it won't idle at all it'll start but will stall out and if i give it pedal it still stalls out but will gain rpm a little. i called my uncle who owns a parts store and had the same problem with another gm car he said the coolant temp sensor went and wouldn't let the car idle so i'm gonna try that out and im gonna try to get my cat back attached because my dad said it might have been that so its gonna take so time and sweat to mend that back so it won't leak that bad. I'll probly bring it back to my school and get the cracks welded

 

spark plugs are cheap; try that first...

 

i already did a full tune-up when i got the car the plugs wires and fuel filter only got like 300 miles to them. i changed the coolant temp sensor and i got rpm gains now, but it won't idle, and it wont keep a steady rpm with out me fluttering the pedal and if i give it a hard pedal it will stall and once my foot is off the engine gets a kick and then stalls but no back fire, i need a mass airflow sensor since the last mechanic left the wrong one dangling and not in the filter housing. So i need a new one anyways then if it aint that I'm shooting for the TPS. My uncle owns a parts store and he said he will get me parts and if they don't work he said bring them back and I'll ship it back as a defect or wrong part so I'm getting free throw around parts to figure out whats wrong and what ever fixes it thats all i gotta pay.


By the way who ever was this lady's mechanic, is a complete rip off because who ever touched this engine before me doesn't know wtf their doing i got broken bolts on both of my exhaust manifolds connectors broken and or not plugged in. Basically this car was on its way out but now I'm controlling the odds of this car and i say its getting a LT1 when this is over.

 

you put new plugs in BEFORE your escapade, correct?

My point is that the new plugs that were in before your burnout are now fouled. You can clean them or replace them but you should do something to them.

 

Sorry. My fault i didn't tell you i cleaned them in my last post. but yea i cleaned all of them until they looked brand new outta the box. they had a lot of carbon build up on them.

 

did you put a lighter to them to dry them totally off? on my old car even if i cleaned the plugs they stayed fould and id buy new onees and be golden. so just try new plugs

 

i gotta looking new i got sum strong stuff and cleaned em right up. So now I'm messing with sensors my uncle gave me and their not working i got a map and a tps and they didn't do squat. So now I'm gonna try the idle air motor BTW these parts are all free i just return the parts that didn't do anything.

So right now the car will crank over will start but will die after 10 seconds of running but if i flutter the pedal like a said in my recent post it will stay running but will soon stall out after that.

 

My first impression would be an O2 sensor. I've had other cars with computer faults that read "Running Rich", and it turned out to be the O2 sensor. Good Luck

 

You might have ruined the o2 sensor, they tend to go bad when saturated in gas . Next time you do a burnout like that, put it in first gear to keep the RPM's up so this doesn't happen again.

BTW: Krisw is right, since you get the parts for free, TRY NEW PLUGS!!

 

Do the plugs, have you tried the coil or the ignition module yet? How about the fuel pressure regulator?

 

update: I had my uncle come over and looked at the car he took a look at the plugs now I'm not getting gas, but theres carbon build up on them again. He pushed the shrader valve and it didn't have that much pressure. So we went back to th fuel filter took the outlet line off the filter, turned the key and he said he got good pressure but the pump shut off after that even when he didn't have his finger on it, it shut off. Now isn't the pump suppose to kept the pressure at 40 psi at all times when the key is on? Could something that was in the tank get past the filter and clog that line between the valve and filter? Cause it's driving me nuts and i want my car back. I'm almost at the point of bringing it to a shop. Because I changed the Idle Air motor, Throttle Position Sensor, MAP, and cleaned the MAF. Still nothing and the O2 sensor i don't think it affects anything my uncle told me if it's a single wire coming off it just heats up or something. I feel like a little kid bragging about my uncle, granted he does have a mint 70 SS Chevelle.

I don't feel like much of a mechanic right now.

OBD1 sucks

 

OBD1 sucks? That's comical and NO the fuel pump only pumps for 2 seconds when the key comes on you have to crank it till it starts to get the car running. You think OBD1 sucks? Try diagnosing stuff with OBD2, and after you fix it good luck getting the damn check engine light off. What brought you to the conclusion you weren't getting gas? Did you run a gauge on it, or ******* it and say "well that there didn't squirt very far must be under 30psi"?

 

o2 sensor. plugs can still be fouled even if they look new. and I don't see how the plugs have carbon build up on them if you're not getting fuel. what's the build up from if there's nothing going in but air?

 

I have no clue so I'm giving up on my backyard work and I'm bringing it to a shop.

 

And you still haven't tried new plugs?

 

i just read your post saying that the o2 sensor doesn't do anything...it just heats up... uh..... it controls the air/fuel mixture by reading the exhaust. and, the single wire sensors are not the self heated ones...those are three or four wire. FYI, they do heat up on their own but their purpose is still to read/maintain the air/fuel ratio. They're about $20; almost would guarentee that's your problem. If that doesn't totally cure it, about $7 will get you new spark plugs. its easy stuff, really...no need to take it to a shop.

 

Maybe I missed where it was already said, but it sounds like a vacuum line to me.

 

Well turns out no ones right but thanx for all of your help guys. I just spent about $700 for 7 parts and the labor coast was $430. I could let you guys guess what six of those seven parts were but ill tell ya anyways all 6 injectors took a **** and screwed up the comp somehow and i got a rebuilt one. And now my knock sensor is acting up so since i had an extra laying around i told him to put it in and put a new connector since that broke too before i got the car and theres no MAF sensor on that car but theres a MAT (manifold air temp) so shes running again he said he'd run it off and then he'd gut out the cat for no charge. And the only reason i took it to a shop is because hes a good friend of the family's and i was tired of seeing it just sitting there.

 

Well, we all know now and next time we'll be able to help more. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.

Do you still have the old injectors? Did you do an ohm reading on them to see where they are?

 

I have never once in my life seen all 6 injectors go bad at once, however if 1 injector shorts out it will shut off all of them. Bad injectors can take out your ECM especially considering the age these things are getting on them. He probably found out the ecm wasn't working when he turned the key on and got no check engine light, pulled the injectors and replaced them, and installed a new ECM. Just the other day we pulled the injectors out of a 3.1 Lumina only to have all of them ohm out fine, on to the next step; ignition module, it failed the field test every time. Swapped that out and now it's back on its feet running strong.

 

The ohm readings on 4 of them were 1.30, one of them had 8.00 and one was reading 12. When i was there and he was pulling them out i was like how the hell did that happen. He said most likely the manifold air temp sensor went then the knock sensor gave a reading and the car ECM went nuts.