ok well i have yet another problem with my camaro. there is a clicking noise coming from under the air intake manifold. i looked and i seem to have a leak in the fuel lines thats easy but could that be the clicking noise?

 

are you sure its not an exhaust leak or even a valve tick?

 

I doubt a fuel leak would cause a ticking sound.

 

if it did, and my fuel was leaking, id say f***** run!

 

yeah its most likely a valve tick like a lifter or rocker, but you should def fix the gas leak, that can be pretty dangerous.

 

yeah i didn't think it would be but i was a little unsure thanks yall

 

Fuel injectors themselves tend to "click" pretty loudly. If your injected, that is.....

 

is there a way i could test each of the injectors to find the problem one without replacing them all?

 

i second that question.

 

I would say check with a speed shop or a engine rebuilder. My local guy can clean them and tell me if I have a bad one. JUst a thought.

 

If you happen to have a DMM handy, you can do a test in about 30 seconds to see if the injectors are electrically sound, but I have to ask, what makes you think one or more is bad? Injectors tend to make a clicking noise. That's how they work. Same as the solenoid on top of the starter. If the motor is bad and you try to crank the car, all the starter does is make that loud "CLICK", right? Same with the fuel injectors, except their guts are a lot smaller and don't make as much noise.
Anyways, if you insist on doing the test anyways, here's what you do. Unless you have the newer style one piece connector that only connects at one end of the engine, which I have no idea about, you can do it pretty easily. First off, you have to disconnect the four-wire connector at BOTH ends of the injector harness (you DON'T even want to FRY THE ECM, now) and put the test leads between the first and third, and the second and last terminals. Since we have three injectors at 12 ohms each, you should read 4 ohms per bank (injectors are in parallel, three 12-ohm units in parallel gives a total of 4 ohms). Any more and you have a problem injector and need to go to the next step. Next, if you feel like running a test on each individual injector, you need to push the silver clip IN towards the injector and pull the connector off. Then, using your DMM, probe the terminals and find the injector should read 12 ohms, with about +/- .5 ohm tolerance, and I believe, no more than one ohm diff per bank.

:edit: If, as per your username, you have a 92, you have a 3.1, which has the unitized connector. I would suggest the individual test.