So today I went out to check/replace my IAC. I found a vaccum tube, that goes from the FPR to the throttle body, broken. I thought to myself, mabye this was the problem . Went for a drive and wouldnt you know it, it died. So while I was priming the fuel pump, like I always do before I start it, there was a lot of constant clicking and blinking from the SES light. I followed that clicking sound to the fuel pump relay. I changed that and it fired right up with no problems.

So why, if the fuel pump relay was bad, would it be throwing a high coolent temp code? Could one bad relay mess with one of the others?



Edit: Still not fixed. I went on the same route as before to test it and it died mabye 100 yards from where it died last time. Except it started right up everytime it died. Could my ECM be bad? I dont know what else could be doing this. If the coolent coolent fan relay went bad also could it shut down the engine?
More info HERE

 

I was just wondering if anyone know if the pick up coil is bad/going bad it would cause the engine to die like its doing for me? Im going to check it tomorrow (not enought light now), but I was just wondering if this could be the problem?

 

Priming the pump? Pumping the pedal before starting? I've always heard that was only necessary on carbs, as fuel injection puts in the amount of fuel needed to start the car, whereas a carb does not(and thus needs to be primed).

I don't have an answer for your question, though.

 

What I mean is I turn the key to the "on" position and let the pum put fuel pressure in the lines that I turn it to crank. I dont just put the key in and turn it all the way at first. I find that my car starts easier if I do that.

 

Ah, well, sorry for my mistake then. Learned something new myself.

 

I checked the pickup coil today. My reader said that the continuity is 850, with in the normal resistance. But when I checked the resistance the reader didnt change. It read 1 before I did the test and while I did the test. I tried it on a bunch of settings but it never changed.

 

Going to need a little background for this here. Have you replaced the CTS yet, and have you checked the connector for dirt and corrosion? You can get a sensor for cheap, and a connector from GM, or both. The coolant fan has nothing to do with the engine stalling unless the fuse is bad and the alt isn't charging either, but that don't sound like the case here.
Also, check your oil pressure switch. It sounds to me like it's going bad. I KNOW someone is going to chime in here and say that the FPR (pump relay) will run the engine even if the switch is bad, but I have yet to find that to be the case. If the switch is disconnected, such as the engine stops due to an accident, the system is designed to cut fuel flow as a safety measure, or shut the pump off.
As for the pickup coil, the engine wouldn't start right up again if it was bad. Even though the F-body is known for killing ignition components, the pickup coil wouldn't just start working again if it was hot. Remember, heat increases electrical resistance.

:edit: Also, when you're testing the pickup coil, you need to disconnect it and set your DMM to VAC scale, 20VAC should do it. You should read around 2 volts.

 

The oil pressure switch you are talking about, is it the one beside the oil filter? I have one of those and I just havent put it in yet. My gauge jumps all over the place. Its been like that since I bought it.
Yes I did change the CTS in the intake manifold. Should I change the coolant fan relay? Would that help?

 

I installed an underdrive pulley abaout a month ago. I also have a mst blaster coil. Could the coil not getting enough juice be shutting it down, and than could it start back up?
Also where is the oil sensor that would shut down the fuel pump?

 

The OPS is screwed into the oil filter adaptor. It has 3 wires running to it, white for the gauge, orange +12VDC in, and, IIRC, a tan one going to the fuel pump. You should be able to get at it from the top of the engine bay.
Again, the coolant fan has NOTHING to do with your stalling problem. If you're sure you have a good CTS in there, the ECM is controlling the fan, and only the fan. The fan will run, if all of the parts are good, whether or not the engine is running, when it's hot. 2.8's have an independant switch in the back of the passenger's side head that, when the engine gets too hot, closes, and grounds a wire that runs the fan. 3.1's are run off of the ECM.

:edit: BTW, it's been shown that our ignition systems kill aftermarket h/p coils. The coils aren't meant for long distance driving, only for quarter-mile use. Switch back to your stocker coil and see if that helps some. Also, take your ignition module (the big black thing sitting next to the pickup coil) in and have it tested at AutoZone or some other place that will do that. Our cars kill those too. I've been through 2 in four years. Get the ACDelco one if it's bad. You get a better warranty and you have the satisfaction of knowing you're not getting ripped off by some Jap who doesn't know how to (re)build a module.

 

I have one of those sensors. Its been sitting around for a while. Ill change that and put back in the stock coil and see what happens. Also the ign module is brand new. That was one of the sensors I changed when all this started.

EDIT--Just wanted to know if this sounded like it could be the ign coil going bad?

 

UPDATE: Ok I just got done swaping in the new oil pressure sensor and old ign. coil(nothing wrong, just swapped in new one). She started, with oil pressure just under 60, and than after about 4-5 min it shut off again It didnt show any codes but it was making the clicking noise again. Followed the sound from the relays to the EGR. It sounded like it was clicking on and off. And while it was doing this the fan was kicking on and off. Bad fan relay? Time to change the EGR? The 3.1 EGRs are so damn expensive.


EDIT - 6/11/07: Finally got it fixed. Turned out to be a bad ECM. Swaped in "newer" one and it runs great.

 

I think it's high time you replaced the ECM. If both the fan AND the EGR are going nuts, then this is probably the only avenue you have left, since the ECM is probably the only common link (with the exception of faults in the wiring, cut insulation rubbing on a power wire and what not). When I first bought the Bird, I had a permanent code 54 (fuel pump relay error), and the engine would stall whenever I didn't want it to, and sometimes never restart. I ended up replacing the REBUILT ECM that was in there. I cracked it open to find a driver transistor that was toast (literally broken in half), and have gone through at least one more (same code 54, the rest were to use my cold start injection system properly).

:edit: BTW, normal oil pressure for our engines is 70 PSI unless the oil pressure regulator spring (in the pump) is going weak.