Guy’s does anyone know the exact weight of the V6 engine? I’m looking for an engine crane that’ll be able to lift my engine when I pull it to do the core plugs. What sort of reach should I look for in a crane? Is it possible to pull it without also having to remove the transmission, and does anyone have any tips for when I do pull it?

Speed.

 

Any engine crane on the market will be able to lift a 660. The genI 660 is approximatly 400 lbs, complete, wet.

 

The top two bell housing bolts are tough to get to. I pulled the heads off my car yesterday, and they can be loostened from the top now. The books tell you to pull the engine and tranny together, or to cut a hole in the firewall, but I don't like either of those options. Dave said he does it by unbolting the driveshaft and tranny mounts, then tips the end of the tranny down to get to them with long extensions. I will probably wait until the block is set to bolt the heads back on to make it easier, but that would create a lot of extra work for you to just change the plugs.

 

Thannks for the heads up guys, I sort of knew that most cranes would lift one but just wanted to make sure. Sort of looking forward to the challenge but hope everything goes ok.

Thanks again. Speed

 

when i pulled my i had the top end all of it was pretty much just the block. but even with everything off it was still a major PITA to get the bell housing bolts off. the top two and bottom two were pretty easy, but the middle ones i had to crawl under the car for. as for a crane like said before any after market one should do the job cause these engines are pretty small. i used my uncles custom made crane that he once used to pull a 12cyl john deer engine. this thing was a bit overkill cause it probably could have lifted my car without a problem.

 

12cyl John Deer?.. I take it thats big??!! Well i got my M.O.T. (A car medical here in the u.k.) in the morning and if she passes ok I'll be taking her home to lay her up for the winter and get on with pulling the engine. I had a good look under there today and like you said the top two bell housing bolts look ok as do the bottom ones, but I'm not so sure about the middle ones! I also found out that BOTH core plugs on either side of the engine are leaking and theres no way I can change them with the engine in, so it's gotta come out. Also found out that someone in the past has tried to remove an exhaust manifold bolt and it's broken so I guess thats gonna be more work! I'm looking forward to the challenge, never pulled an engine before but I'm also scared as hell!

Speed.

 

if u get the car on 4 jack stands or a lift, remove the tq arm and the ds,then remove the transmission shifter lingage from the shift arm,and remove the cable assembly from the transpan. place a floor jack under the trans pan with a piece of wood on it and jack it up till it just touches the pan to support the wieght
then remove the trans crossmember.and lower the jack this allows the rear of the trans to fall down quite a bit.
if u use a long ex6tension and a swivel socket u can remove al the bellhousing bolts from under the car.just make sure u have the trans supported otherwise it could fall right out once u get the bolts out jack the trans back up and reinstall the crossmember and it cant go anywere

i forgot to mention when u unhook the trans cable also unhook the speedo cable
also before u pull the motor u will have to remove the upper intake manifold to get the tv/trans cable unhooked from the bracket.

its much easier to seperate the trans and motor in the car then it is to pull them and reinstall them together

 

Which freeze-plugs are you trying to remove? You might just be able to loosten the motor mounts, and jack the engine.

 

Thanks for the info Dave, makes sense to do that. I took it for it's M.O.T. this morning and it passed no probs so I guess it's time to lay her up for the winter and start removing stuff. As far as I can see Firstbird it's the two plugs on either side of the block, the one over the oil filter leaks only when it's sat, the one over the starter leaks all the time (hot or cold). I'm pretty sure I could get them out ok, but there would be very little space to hammer in the new (brass) ones. Also because most of the water then leaks out through the transmission cover between the tranny and engine I'm not sure if the one's round back are leaking too. Has anyone ever changed these without taking the engine out and replaced them with the brass ones? I have a Dorman plug set and they look like there gonna need some hitting to get them in!



Speed.

 

What about these "supposed" leak stop additives?? Has anyone tried them for freeze plug leaks ?? Any success??

 

Works temporarily, if at all.