My fuel pump is about to go out I believe. Luckily I have my dad's truck to drive the rest of the week. My fuel pump is whinning very loud and sounds like there isn't any gas in there. I know that I have gas because I just filled up yesturday. The car for a while now has been bogging around 3000 RPM under normal driving. Now I know the problem. I didn't think that the FP was the problem because fuel pressure was good. My main question is how can I take the fuel pump out without dropping the rearend and the tank. What I am really asking is where do I cut the whole in the trunk area to get to the pump. I have to do this this weekend so I can't have parts laying around everywhere. Who makes the cheapest pump (I am trying to save for a new motor) and what else should I replace. The filter is about a year old now. Thanks.

 

Try this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...cces-done.html

 

Might as well put a quality pump in so you don't have to do it again later. There is a couple of write-ups here on how to do the "trap door" mod, but there are also write-ups on how to do it without pulling the rear end (just some suspension parts. It's up to you how it's done on your car, but I won't be cutting any hole in the floor.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks, that is just what I needed. I'll post up in that thread so as not to make this one a mess.

Edit: I am planning to just go with a OEM from Autozone for somewhere around $72. Is there a cheaper one that might be as good as OEM or better.

 

OK so nobody is answering me in the other thread. What would be the best way to reconnect the fuel lines. I read somthing like flaring the lines and using some sort of compression fitting? I was planning on the high pressure rubber hose but it sounds too much like a safety issue since they could blow out. If I did end up having to use rubber hose what strength and what kind of connectors should I use? The rubber hose would only be temporary. Like maybe a month. I would try and fix the lines the best way ASAP if it isn't in budget right now.

 

When I bought my '85 it already had this done to it. Basically they are brass fittings that you can get at just about any hardware store. You have to cut the lines, slide the nuts on each end of the lines, slide a pharynx on after that, and screw the together on a nipple that is threaded on both sides.

Not sure if that makes sense but, just go to the hardware store and tell them you need some brass fittings to connect some metal lines together. They should know what to get for you...key word "should".

 

What size are the fuel lines? 3/8s?

 

The 2 inside lines are 5/16 and the 2 outside lines are 3/8. The brass fittings are pretty cheap. You should be able to get evrything just as cheap if not cheaper than the hose and clamps. I would just do it this way now and not have to fix it later. Both ways are purty darn cheap...but why not do it right the first time...for near the same price?

 

Just found some pics....



You need 4 - 5/16 and 4 - 3/8 of the sleeves on the left. 4 - 5/16 and 4 - 3/8 of the nuts in the middle, and 2 - 5/16 and 2 - 3/8 of the nipples on the right. (note: the pic of the nipple has the nuts screwed on already)

First cut your lines, slide the nuts on each side of each line, then slide on the sleeves, then slide the lines into the nipples and screw the nuts on. That should be all you need to do! Hope this helps.

-Ryan

 

Thanks alot. I'll go buy these. I wan't sure on price because I don't have alot of cash to throw around right now.

 

Understandable, Im a college student so Im tight on funds, too. All of this shouldnt cost you more than a couple dollars.

 

Buy the equivalent of the E3270 pump at advance auto. It's about 86 dollars. It's the factory pump for the 89 turbo trans am. It was also used in later vortec V8 pickups.

It has a little higher pressure than yours but your regulator will keep it under control. It flows a lot more than the V6 pump and can even support a bigger V8 in the future if you go nuts with engine swapping!

You should also change your fuel filter once a year. This is a leading cause of fuel pump death. Mileage doesn't matter to these pumps or filters because they just continuously flow while the car is on. Once a year and the pump will last a long, long time. Changing it more than that is okay, too.

Good luck!

 

I figured that it wouldn't cost very much. I just also have to replace the wheel bearings in the rearend. They aren't bad but need to be changed whenever I can do it. Hopfully I can do this on saturday. Is there anything else that I should get. Wiring, strainer? I do need a sending unit for the fuel gague but that is way expensive.

Is that TTA pump better than the stock V6 pump besides flowing more? I guess that I could go ahead and get it in case there were any future turbo plans for the car.

 

It's better.

Really, it's not so great, it's just that the stock V6 pumps suck!

for less than ten dollars, this upgrade is worth it. You should replace the strainer while you have it out.

Go to a junkyard and get a used fuel gauge sender. As long as the car is fuel injected, you should be okay. Fixing your gauge is important...

 

I don't know if its stuck or broke. The gague always reads full. I don't really worry about it because I just fill up every 3 or 4 days depending on how much driving I do to be safe. I did run out of gas a while back. I'll pick up that pump and a strainer with the connectors. I'll get a new filter next check.

This pump is a direct replacement?

 

Yep

 

I picked up the fuel line connectors they are a little different from what was described. Instead of those sleeves there are a sleeve that slips into the fuel line and has a flare on the end that is what seals it. It sould work fine.

 

Those won't work on hard lines, they are made for rubber/plastic. Wherever you bought the fittings, there will be a seperate area nearby that just sells the ferrels (looks like a sleeve that slips over the tubing, looks like the pic on left in post #9).

 

Dammit. :banghead: I just bought them like that because is was all in one little package. Those sleeves were seperate. I guess I'm going back into town then.

 

I need an answer on this in the next couple of hours. How do you remove the wiring from the pump? I am talking about the wiring that is outside of the tank going into the tank. It has a yellow connector but I can't get it off. I have the fuel lines cut and the ring popped, I just need to disconnect the wiring to get it out of the tank. I have to go back to town to get the right compression splices for the lines.

 

Nobody had the 5/16 fittings that I need. I found the little compression rings but no nuts. I ended up having to buy what I did before and buy the nuts and rings seperately. I went to Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, Advanced Auto, Pep Boys and Harbor Freight. I will have 5/16s hose for a few days until some of the other stores open on Monday.

 

Ok guys I need answers like now! I have no fuel pressure now. I am so pissed at this car now I just want to scrap it and get a loan to buy another car. I thought I did everything right. The only problem I had was the wiring was a little different. I sent the purple wire to the float sensor and the black wire to the ground on the fuel line. The old harness had an additional wire going to the pump I believe and the new harness didn't. What the hell should I do now?

 

Why would creating an access hatch be considered a hack job? Just about every other manufacturer out there now adays uses some form of access hatch so you dont have to drop everything out of the back of the vehicle. Since replacing a fuel pump in one of these is a popular thing, creating an access hatch is the best thing to do. Saves a lot of trouble especially on a 20 year old vehicle. Dropping the rear out of one that hasnt been done before will surely result in headaches from extremely rusted and breaking bolts. Just dont do it on a customers car. If they see you cutting a hatch in the back of their vehicle the s**t will hit the fan

 

I already it and it works. It helps when the parts store gives me the right wiring harness. The other did need to be replaces but it didn't solve the problem I have with the motor bogging.