Few more pics here...
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...FWD%20headers/

 

Looks like a good start. I hope to start on mine soon, first I need to get the engine to fit the chassis.

 

These aren't for me but mine will be similar, just facing forward (gonna look funny while N/A). They are for someone here in FL that had a rear mount turbo in an L-body and is making it a front-mount.

 

You built those fast. Look good.

 

I'ts only one side, and it need to be seald up on a couple of seams still.

Doesn't take too long, done lots of plumbing in my life, but I like working with steel because you can cut it anywhere and weld it together (unlike plumbing where you have specific junctions ie: 90*, 45*, 22* etc).

 

Oh. I thought that you actually built both sides.

 

You did it a bit different than I did for a J-body.

I'll have to find better pics but this is what I have uploaded to web space now:


Here is the rear header and down pipe:



And installed:

 

I like the way you did those, a little more equal length, but I don't have the car here and wanted to make sure they fit.

 

Finished
Pics of the rear header, had to make it al little different to clear the KS, and still be able to reach the bolts/studs during installation...

 

See my reply on DC, I don't think that rear header is going to fit.

The front header were all within 3/4" of each other, didn't plan it honestly, they just turned out that way.

 

Replied there, but if a 90* turn is added right after the primaries, you don't think they will still fit?

He wanted me to make some like this, but gave me a set of 3400 heads with LS6 spring already on them - so I hooked him up with a spectacular deal...

 

I replied on DC again.

If these are going on a 3400, the KS is on the front of the engine, not the rear.

I think I would have also ran the #1 primary differently to keep it closer to the #3 primary to provide space for the down pipe to pass below the header.

 

The heads are from a 3400, but I believe it's a hybrid motor ('95 Corssica), but will have to check. -already did, it's a full 3400

So you think if I add a 45* or 90* to eacch primary at the flange to make the header turn up, then cut the collector off close to the primaries to add a 90* bend to the front of the engine, they will be closer to fitting? There are more pics in the link at the bottom of post #1 to get a better idea.

After looking at the pics again, I realized there wasn't one taken from the top of the engine today, the rear header only protrudes a couple of inches past the rear of the head.

 

Guessed by the pics that it was going to sneak under the vac booster. Maybe I will send a hydro-booster from an Astro to eliminate that big can.

 

LOL, a hydroboost conversion would be near impossible for someone that doesn't have the means to build thier own headers.

I think you'll have to cut apart that rear header and start over.

The rear header I posted above was about the 5th incarnation of it.

Keeping the collector tight to the engine will be most helpful.

There is no space under the booster to run the exhaust/crossover as the inner tie rod end is right there.

 

True, I foget that not everybody can look at something and say "I can do/fix/buld/make that"

If I have to start over, then so be it. Perhaps I will take the header to the JY and check it out (with a hack-saw and some extra bends of course).

5th!!! Were you getting frustrated yet? I got quite angry when I had to build my hot pipe twice on the first tubo kit I did in my car, but it turned out sooo much better the second time - it was a "blessing in disguise".

So I guess that's why the turbo was mounted high in the rear on your kit (downpipe routing)? It would also help the oil drain location because it's above the valve cover (could be put in the cover).
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PS: I'm glad you hang out here even though you don't drive an f-body

 

Yes, the oil drain was put into the rear valve cover:



5th is being conservative. Yeah it was a little trying at times.

The turbo was mounted where it was, because it was the only place it would fit without needing to move the battery, which was a goal of mine for that install, to keep the battery under the hood.

 

One more thought. What if the collector outlet was in near the same position as the inlet on the turbo kit you built (actually the center cection of the turbo)? Kind of parallel to the valve cover, heading towards the booster. Then the DP could go similar to where the stock DP/Y would be. I was thinking the turbo would go kind of behind the driver's light.

Let's take this to DC (might get locked here), and I will paste this reply there.
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I like the valvecover drain!

Is that an e-bay turbo?

 

i thought it was bad to have the drain line goin into the valve cover... well thats what i was told atleast.. can you do that instead of welding a bung onto your pan and whatnot??

 

No, it's fine having the oil drain into the valve cover, it's all part of the same internal space.

There were a few TT SBC kits out there that mounted the turbos above or nearly above the valve covers that had the oil return back into the valve covers.

Also anyone that I have seen that has installed a remote mount turbo returns the oil into the valve cover, usually into the filler cap opening.

Yes, this is instead of the bung in the oil pan. The turbo has be above the valve cover for it to work though, the oil won't flow up hil without help.

 

This time I just tacked them for testing

 

That looks like a much better fit.

 

How clever! I'm going to do that to my tt setup I have planned. Little details like that are what make diy engine building fun.

 

there might be a few pics in this gallery to help you get an idea of what's in the way in the engine bay..

http://www.3500z.com/Gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=179

the revised rear looks like it'll fit although it will be very close to the fuel lines. He may have to figure out some way to route them away from it.


Nice work though!

 

Oh man, thanks again Dave!

I checked them on a 3500 I just got in the shop ....

 

If he uses the '99 to '00 (IIRC) Alero fuel lines they will clear, as they hug the bellhousing at the block, and tight to the heads.