alright, I've got my timing gear assembly installed according to the instructions and picture in the Chilton's manual, but I'm worried that I might have it one tooth off to either side on the cam gear. It looks like the picture, but then again, it could look similar with one tooth off in either direction. I've got it so that the cam gear key is on top and slightly off-center to the right with the No.1 and 4 pistons at TDC. Judging by the position of the cam lobes, No. 4 should be at the top of it's power stroke. Is there anyway of knowing If I've got it aligned for sure?

 

There are timing marks on the gears, both the cam and cfrank gears.

These marks (usually round indents), need to line up vertically. I usually use TDC of cyl #1 and line up the marks so that they are "pointing" at each other, one indent at the top of the crank gear and the cam gesar with the indent at the bottom. This is the easiest way to line them up.

 

If I remember correctly, the chain damper has a little pointer on the crank gear side to aid in the line-up. It wont be within the pointer if your one tooth off either way.

 

alright, I got it all put together properly this time. There were no marks on the crank gear but there was a mark on the cam gear, so I lined it up with the pointer on the chain damper having that mark point toward the crank gear. Brought no.1 to TDC to where one of the teeth of crank gear lined up with the pointer on the chain damper. I installed the cover, and now I'm degreasing and cleaning up my water pump to finish bolting that whole assembly up. Thanks for the help. One more thing, I lost one of the screws to my camshaft end plate, will any SAE grade bolt from a store like Fasten-Al do, or do I need "special" OEM bolts. I've been using Fasten-Al for most of my bolt needs on my Dirt-bike (Honda wanted $5 for a little hex-head bolt for the shifter) with no problems, and they seem to be better quality than original manufacturer fasteners.

 

Most people reuse the original bolts till they break, new is always better nomatter who makes them.

 

Whoa, back up the truck, chuck.

ALLLLLLLL Timing sets have a timing mark, especially on the crank gear.

You probably have it installed backwards, and IIRC this will put the two gears out of alignment. I would remove the crank gear and cheack for sure. Haveing that gear backwards could put the cam out of time.

 

well, I don't know Six_Shooter, I looked it over pretty well, but I can't really get to it now to check, anyways, I've already got the timing cover and water pump bolted on (with gaskets and RTV), and I can't wait another 3 weeks for a new set of gaskets. Anyways, do you think it really matters if the crank gear is on "backwards." I checked it and its front side is identical to its back side. The teeth are the same shape and it doesn't go on the shaft more or less either way. Is it really gonna cause problems?

 

Possibly. IIRC the teeth don't line up the same with the sprocket (gear) installed backwards. I'll have to pull one off to check for sure.

 

ok, well I really appreciate your help, I'm going to order the gaskets, continue the the assembly of the engine, see if it runs well like it is, and if it doesn't, then I'll already have the gaskets to redo the timing job. I'll probably throw in a new water pump while I'm at it (if it needs to be redone). If I do end up having to switch the sprocket around, do you think I'll need to replace the timing cover oil seal again? It's brand new, but you know how things like that go

 

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P.S. can you believe I received a MASTER engine REBUILD kit that came with gaskets that had a warranty that would be void if I didn't use new head bolts, but the shop didn't even offer them to me, now I got to pay $72 for 16 head bolts and thread sealer because they're "special" bolts designed for a "special" torque!!! Standard SAE bolts are only a few cents each, but $4+ for one bolt is RIDICULOUS!!!