XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

v6 2.8l 88 firebird.

changed TPS, air cleaner, fuel filter, cleaned plantuim, new IAC, new alternator.

i adjust the TPS .54, idle, etc.

i reset the trouble codes.. turn car on runs fine sounds good, take it out for a spin up a decent cresent of a hill, pull the gas pedal down and SES light on, code 33 and 34 at the sametime, and my brakes get stiff and dont stop the damned car...weird... i checked the MAF wiring its all good 5v signal wire, 12v power, turn car on hit it no stumble, shook wiring no stumble, switch relays too see if i come up with a different code nothing, checked air intake tubing system no cracks.. im not sure were to go, it's only on mostly when i drive and are going 30-40 MPH and then once it triggers its on till i turn the car off and let it sit for a bit.

any suggestions?

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

your brake booster stopped working. Wether its a vacuum line off, vacuum leak or the diaphram in the booster went out. Or its not getting the right amount of vacuum to work right.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

what im not understand is why does it on come on at certains times, its a random process, i just went down to the store bout 3 miles from here, worked and ran fine, but if i was to go about 30-40 and up a hill or so, it woulf set faster than going 30 downhill and driving normally.

so you think its a booster problem or vacuum leak? once the light triggers it stays on untill i turn the car off for a bit, and my brakes suck *** when the light triggers.

EGR Supply vacuum? i pulled the check valve off the brake booster and heard air hissing out so i think it has vacuum, and why would a 33/34 trigger is what im confused about.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

anyone?

update: took maf wires out of the connector and crimped them together for a firmer connection so far no codes, even if it was the MAF how would that affect my braking system?

eric17422001

I assume the engine is NOT stalling when this conditon happens?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It may be the opposite. If the vacuum booster is leaking that is air that is not metered by the MAF. Which could kick out a code.

RBob.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

it stalls at times, at lights, stop signs, etc. but only when it kicks out the SES light at random times, other than that it runs fine, but once the code is being kicked out it has a horrible low idle, brakes suck BIG time untill the car is shut off for a bit.

i changed the IAC, TPS(Adjusted .54), Air Cleaner, Dist Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs, Trans Fluid & Filter, Oil, Fuel Filter, Cleaned Upper Plantium,Crimped MAF wires closer together last night haven't got a code so far but it most likely will show up, i've also checked / replaced any hoses that i suspected to have a leak, even my brittle little hoses are perfectly fine, i also sealed up the intake housing even though it didnt need it, i jb welded the connecting joints where the manufactures placed there glue (just incase), i also checked the purge valve, and canister.

IM SO DAMNED LOST!

last thing would be the MAF, but why would that cause failure to my brake system...doesnt make sense and if it was my MAF wouldnt the code be on from the start?

chevyracingrox

has your milage changed at all? if there's a vacuum leak you'll be sucking in air from somewhere the MAF won't be able to read and then your air/fuel mixture could go lean. this problem was only reported yesterday so you might want to give it time.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

i've been getting poor milage i believe, been eating that gas up, i also have a fuel odor ( most likely filler neck) but theres no leaks... not sure if that has anything to do with this problem, i did change the fuel filter and checked the fittings after a full tank nothing was leaking and no smells around it, the SES Engine light hardly ever comes on when i start the car, i took it up a decent cresent of a hill ( gas pedal further down ) and that's when it kicked in, i press the brakes to stop ( Traffic ) they sucked *** really hard and i pressed them really hard and it would just slow down and roll. and when stoped had crappy idle in car tach was showing bout 600 which is like 300-400 since my tach in car is way off (tested with hand held) and it sometimes stalls when at lights if the light is on, but i then reached the parking lot turn the car off for 10 minutes and presto light off, drove it again back to where i left and no light and brakes worked.

that's the entire senerio of the situation.

but im doubting a vacuum leak there's only a minuim number of lines, i checked all the lines, canister to fuel tank, canister to egr solinoid, egr to throttle body, PCV to solinoid, and checked the brittle lines that are attached to the PCV etc, there all good to go, i dont hear any leaks as we'll, booster line is nice and snug, booster check valve is good works correctly.

i went out this morning took the fuel relay off and the other relay (Blower) cleaned that gunky grease out (electrical grease) and made sure they had good connections also switch MAF Relays about 2-3 days ago still got the code not a different code, so the relays are working properly, but i do have a problem getting it to start the first crank think the fuel relay is going bad.

XxXChrisGXxX

iTrader: (1)

i think i figured it out, the MAF connectors wires were expanded from heat and old age did alittle crimping and so far only came on once, going to buy new connector, and other than that i drove it 60 miles no light, only that once ( hit a bumb ), but still have crap for brakes stop better now, but has weak stopping power no clue why.