I've got this blue 92 RS with a 3.1 and 700r4. Bone stock. Runs ok. I've got code 32 and it sucks. I replaced the egr valve with a junkyard one yesterday and still got the code and the horrible gas mileage. (suprised it still runs.)

I proceeded to take the original apart and cleanse it free of the superthick carbon deposits. I drove it today and it worked fine. Tonight i drove around 15 miles and my engine light was back on again. Instant gas guzzler. Now I have no idea what to do.

Tomorrow I'm gonna take apart and clean the junkyard valve and swap them out again. I just cannot seem to solve the problem.

Is there anyone out there that has dealt with this same problem, and has any suggestions? (ps its the digital egr used in 90-92)

I have no special tools. just the tools to take it apart, clean it, and put it back together again. Any help is greatfully appreciated by the dude who just got laid off from work, is broke, and has to deal with a 3.1 lol.

 

can u make urself a blockoff plate? i would throw a block off plate on it and take it for a ride just to see if it improves. if not then the egr is not ur issue, blocking off the egr u would lose about 1-2mpg not 11 or whatever u have lost

 

I've gotten a steady 24 mpg with a slippin tranny, so all I expect is about 25mpg at the most. So, i've lost like, 16mpg. lol its really that bad. I'll draw it out tomorrow and make a blockoff plate as soon as possible.

If I only loose 2mpg then I'd still be getting 20+ which is all I ask for at this point in this cars life. I am still very open to suggestions from anybody if possible though. Its been a huge pain in my ***.

Hopefully a plate will be the last egr fix I EVER have to worry about....

 

i wouldnt leave the plate on it, on a 2.8 with a non digital egr id say go for it,but removing the digital egr may put the computer on a 3.1 into limp home mode if possible make a plate that blocks off at the intake neck this way u can leave the digital egr valve on and hooked up,this way the ecm still sees it,but if it is leaking the exessive ex gas wont make it into the intake

 

I blocked mine where the tube goes into the intake, and I
get a code for EGR - but my mileage went from 13 to 20+

 

i like that idea. hey, make sure you got a digital EGR valve too and not the older kind.

 

I blocked mine off and it has ran perfect since.

 

Well, today I ran with Project89's idea. I cutout a plate that just had the bolt holes. I bought a second gasket from autozone then sandwiched it all together. heres the order for the less mechanically inclined.
From top to bottom...
EGR Valve
Gasket
Homebrew Plate
Gasket
Manifold

Took a test drive, but the light still came on like usual. My buddy said reset the computer. Pulled over, reset, then tried again. I've been driving all evening since we reset the computer and its been smooth sailing since.

I even noticed less bogging going 45-50mph in OD up steep hills as well. This route saved me hundreds in gas, and at least 250$ for a new EGR Valve. I Highly recommend it to anyone who is experiencing the dreadful Code 32.

"And thats all I have to say about that..."

EDIT: I really appreciate the help everyone, you have no idea. Or maybe you do...

 

So how's she running now?
do you still have the block off plate installed can you snap a pict or two

I've had this problem for years now and swapped in a new egr unit and still nothing................

 

Well, today I made my way down to Autozone. I hadn't put any gasket sealer on the bottom gasket. So I'll be taking it apart in about an hour or two and should have pics up before tonight depending on how lazy I feel.

She runs great until about 4k. I suppose without any sealer on the gaskets, and a quick plate cutting job, exhaust finds ways out when under a load, or running high rpm.

I'll have pictures of it soon, and a hard thrashing of a road test report to go with it. I plan to not ever see Code 32 again.

well see in a few......

 

Sorry for the wait. Heres the late pictures I promised. Don't be afraid to ask questions or post suggestions... Hope I helped and I appreciate all the received help...

 

on a good day my little 3.1 can average 125 - 150 miles per tank of city driving

and seen as how i just spent $70 on Friday morning and another 70 this morning I need some help FAST........................


OK here's some info on me and the car

I know nothing at all about cars and engines other then how to drive them but i am learning slowly.................

91 3.1L with 138XXX miles on the clock
I got her back in 2000 from a friend who clocked 120XXX of only highway driving

so yeah i really have not driven her much at all

I did take one real trip in her down to AC right after changing all the front end steering parts 2 new tires and a tomp tune up about 3 years ago and she drove great i filled up and topped it off as much as i could hit the trip counter and drove exactly 100 miles most of it going 80 or so and then stopped and refiled the tank after the 100miles and was shocked as all hell because i only used 3.5 gallons so i figured my problems were solved
but that was not the case at all

what i've done over the years
custom headers dynomax catback
spohn subframe and lac brackets
tds steering brace sway bars and endlinks
hyperflex kit
kyb's all around with stock springs
new EGR and sensors
vac lines were all down about 2 maybe 2 1/2 years ago
new 17lbs injectors i think went in last year
with yet another cat (i think im working on my 5th one now)

every yeah i pick up all the parts for on of the famous TOMP tuneups
oil is changed every 3 moths even when she just sits around going from one side of the street to the other (alt side )

anyway over the years i've tried several so called Great shops and still nothing after spending i can't tell you all how much

I've paid to have the computer read and so on about 4 times now by so called great shops and they only tell me that she is running rich and either swap in a few parts or just send me off to another shop for work

i still have the underdrive pulleys water pump fuel pump and timing chain all sitting around collecting dust b/c i just got feed up with different guys / shops telling me and charging me all different amount and me never getting and real results...................................



SO what do you think should i try this block off plate.........

and wouldn't the new egr and all new vac lines have stopped any leaks????

now i'm trying to get together with a friend who offer to help me put on some of the parts mentioned above as well as another tune up

I'm going to try and make it outside for lunch today and i'll pull some codes and post up what ever i find




SORRY FOR THE LONG READ...............
and THANKS FOR ANY AND ALL FEEDBACK

 

No codes, is the car running iffy?

 

code wise i only keep getting the 32 and that she is running rich

 

The 17 #/hr injectors will cause it to run rich. I would get the proper size and install them. This may also have something to do with the cat's being eaten.

I would also do the timing chain. For some reason these engines eat timing chains. As they stretch it affects both the cam timing and the ignition timing.

RBob.

 

gas problems have been the same even with brand new cat and old non leaking injectors

the local shops want 450 to change the timing chain so thats why i've help off

 

New codes as of 30min ago



23 & 35

 

23 - Low IAT, sensor is in air cleaner

35 - IAC errror, set when the ECM can't hold the correct idle speed

RBob.
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What I was meaning about the cat's is that excess fuel will ruin them. The absolute worst thing for a cat is a misfire. In this case the entire cylinder fuel/air charge gets burned in the cat. Turns it into a blast furnace.

Would the bad mileage be mostly while driving in the rain?

RBob.

 

i just replaced my EGR the other day and i still get the 32 code when i drive on the free way or 60mph+

 

What the hell is the EGR good for or do anyway?!

 

The EGR Valve is supposed to reburn your exhaust gases to seperate the Co2 molecules into two different molecules that are more environmentaly friendly...

Or something like that.

BTW: Does anybody know what the ribbed metal line is for? It is located in front of the egr and below on the side of the manifold. I took off the intake side and noticed it was COMPLETELY blocked off from carbon.

I suppose thats the reburning hose, sending the exhaust back through for the motor to re-burn. I suppose this could also be a code thrower. When I take mine fully off I'll take pics and another writeup of what I'm talking about.

 

OK so what if anything should i do or try next?

 

You found the problem. That tube is what transfers the exhaust gas from the EGR valve back to the intake. With it clogged the EGR system isn't operational. Be careful not to ruin the tube while cleaning it. They haven't been available new in the past, not sure if they are yet available as aftermarket.


How the ECM tests the EGR system, or, why does a code 32 get set ('90 - '92 MY):

During highway cruise under light throttle to decel, the ECM opens each of the three EGR valves separately. As this is done the ECM then checks the MAP signal to see that the manifold pressure has changed.

With the EGR working the manifold pressure will change as each valve is opened and closed.

If no manifold change is detected, code 32 is set.

RBob.

 

what do the oxygen sensors do on these cars? could that cause the problems?

 

An o2 sensor reads the ratio of air:fuel mixture in your exhaust to tell the computer wether or not the motor is running rich or lean. If its running a little off, the computer adjusts to compensate for any wrongs in the ratio.

If your o2 sensor is bad, you should get a specific code for it.

RBob: Could I use carb cleaner to clean the line out? What are some procedures I should be aware of to not ruin the line?

confucius101: You should look at the metal line I was talking about. It might be just as clogged as mine was. If it isn't, then go ahead and make a blockoff plate and see what happens.

 

You are thinking the same as I was, using something along the lines of 2+2 gum cutter. Being that the tube has been heat cycled many times and is stainless, it will crack at the drop of a hat.

The problem is that the carbon can be as hard as rock. So soaking it to soften it will help. And 2+2 cuts through gum quickly. I've never had to clean that particular tube. However, on intakes it isn't unusual to use a drill with a metal type twist drill bit to get the carbon out.

RBob.

 

So in other words, if you remove it and block it off the car still runs perfectly fine. It's only use is to save you maybe a mile a gallon on gas. Am I right so far?

 

Unless someone can tell me wrong, then yes you have got the gist of it. Just a way to make your exhaust more "emissions friendly". I just don't ever wanna deal with it again lol.

It might've saved a tree (doubt it), but its cost me an extra couple hundred bux on gas, and lots of afternoon headaches...

 

I'm tellin' ya. Every article I've ever seen written up on souping up a 305 has always had the EGR "blocked off!"

Made me always wonder what it's use was since every gearhead always made it seem that it's use was always, well, irrelevant.

 

there are times the egr should be removed,but 8 out of 10 times it will not hurt performance, the egr only operates at crusing speed

the onyl times it should be removed are in times when repairing it will cost way to much, or ur building a pretty mean track car in which case it prolly wont pass emissions anyway.

 

Don't automatically assume if your getting code 32 that it's the EGR. Two seperate times I got code 32 and it wasn't the egr at all. First was my Ignition Module, second was 2 bad fuel injectors. They both set code 32's. I messed around with that egr for a while though.

 

Is it possible that the EGR could be causing problems and not throw a code? My car fails smog at high rpm (running rich), but is fine at idle. I've suspected the EGR but I don't have any codes. My MPG is also suffering.

 

I cut out a patch of galvenized steel sheeting and placed it under my digital EGR. Doubled my gas mileage in 10 minutes!

 

Blaze Of Glory: Your problem sounds like fuel injectors. Are they stock or anything other than #15?


If I make a block off plate, will I get a check engine light on the highway?

 

I'm prolly wrong but I thought that stock injectors were #17 injectors. (Prolly wrong though.)

Anyways, you will still get a check engine light. All 90-92 Camaros had a digital EGR. The computer will always look for it. Unplugging it, the computer can't see it, and throws a code. Then the computer tries to compensate what it thinks is a wrong air fuel ratio, making the motor run rich.

You cannot block a digital EGR either. Same thing happens above because the computer sees that its there, but you've blocked off its functioning. So don't block it either.

So you ask, "What Can I Do About It?"

If you can do custom chip burning and whatnot, you could eliminate the need for it, but most people can't.

Then you ask, "What Do I Need To Do About It?"

Trust me, you need to take the EGR Valve apart and clean it. Then you need to take the reburner hose off and clean it. Make sure that there is clean and smooth flow from the manifold/EGR to the side of the Throttle Body.

I'm pretty sure that once you've followed this process, you will have no more problems.

Also: I will edit a notation in my first post directing people not to just "block it off" for 90-92. Hopefully this will decrease confusion for some that don't read the whole thread...

Hope I helped...

 

My injectors are stock. I rebuilt the distributor and replaced the module, plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter, oil & filter. My car passed smog, the high RPM was ok, but the idle is still a little rich. The mechanic said it didn't look good at first but after he let the car run for a while the emissions mellowed out. The car still sounds a little rough though.
Next on my list is IAC valve, TPS and MAP sensors, then fuel injectors. I want to do the injectors ASAP but I need to wait until I have more time and money. All this is taking a backseat to my broken windshield and rust around the a-pillar.

Could the EGR be causing problems even if there is no code?

 

EGR ..Exhaust Gas Recirculation..it recirculates exhaust gases back into the burning cycle ..too reduce emissions and its supposed to lower engine temps?
Its been awhile but the emission gas I believe(correct me if I am wrong)that its suppose to lower is NOx..I dont know how many states check this gas ,but AZ doesnt.For those of you who have the digital EGR you can do a simple test without any special tools..theres three solenoids and underneath each one is a small hole or orifice.By suppling voltage and grounding each solenoid while the car is running you can feel the idle drop ..the one with the smallest orifice is hard to tell cause its so small it doesnt affect idle enough to feel it?.Just some info on the EGR..

 

I have an 89 camaro which had an idiot for a previous owner. Here is my list of problems and solutions.

 

Code 32.........................replaced egr and cleaned RBH but the code remains

I think you might need to check and see if you have power to the EGR?..and check your fuses.I believe there is a 10 amp fuse for it?Not positive.The code represents an EGR flow test failure..The ECM on a closed throttle coast down ,will cycle the solenoids on and off individually and look for a change in engine RPM and O2 activity?.You need to get a flow chart on this code..cause it could be something like an open circuit to a faulty ECM.I remember reading somewhere that reoccuring codes on certain year camaros need a updated PROM or computer chip...cant remember what the codes where or what year.

 

My 89 does not have the digital EGR it is all ran off of vaccum lines.

 

Any body got an idea of how much a rear main seal will cost plus installment?
----------
Got the pic thanks for the list of instructions. NOT

 

You should try going to your local Auto parts dealer (ie Autozone,Advance Auto, etc)

Lets try to keep things on topic though...

jstrdn90rs Thanks for the extra info. There is also a very lengthy article in the Tech Articles here at TGO for the few that wish to delve deeper into the EGR.

 

How is an oil seal on the engine going to cause your transmission not to function properly???


as far as all this EGR talk, I put block off plates on mine too. didnt really see any changes in mileage, gotta stare at a light all the time now. the reason i did it was because i didnt want to spend the $100 to replace the EGR solenoid. Ive had plugged vacuum lines cause the $32 before as well. Im not too familiar w/ the digital ones, but theres more to it than just the EGR valve on the 2.8 that can go wrong.

 

Sorry 89t-top ..I wasnt aware when the digital EGR came out..But for those who have a digital theres some info.Personally I never had a problem with a EGR..I guess I been lucky.

If your rear main was leaking and you had a Manual trans..then I might say you have a problem.Only guess would be the rear seal is leaking fluid and when it gets low you have problems shifting??.

 

With the rear main subject set aside. Is there a way to test a 2.8 Egr?

 

I've got an 89 2.8 with the vacuum EGR.. Where the EGR bolts on to my manifold, the section with the hole has been broken off. I believe this is causing a large exhaust leak. Will covering this with a block off cause a code?

 

I have a friend who claims that since the 2.8 uses an analog egr that blocking it off will not hurt. I'm not sure if the Code would go away but as a temporary fix the block off plate would help with the fumes, but replacing and cleaning is your best bet.

 

As DrDave88 said, you will likely throw a code, but you will not see any more than 1-2mpg difference with it blocked off.

Kevman, are you saying that one of the bolt hole flanges broke off? As in only one bolt holding the EGR Valve down onto the manifold? If so, then its prolly not sealing up properly. I could have read you wrong though. Can you get a pic?

 

Dont know if anyone has tried this but I used to test my vacuum operated EGR's by pushing up the diaphram from the backside while the engine is running and notice a change in RPM's.If no change then the manifold passages are probably blocked..plus the EGR gets exposed to hot exhaust gases and sometime you can't move the diaphram?..rusted shut.You should be able to move the diaphram up and down smoothly.Only other check I know of, is vacuum source is it getting vacuum at the recommended RPM's?.I do know that theres certain types you cannot do this test too.

 

I tried taking a pic but it just kept coming out blurry, but the flange is broken off where it attaches to the manifold. Right next to where the bolt is. I noticed alot of carbon around that area, aswell. Especially on my plug wires.