Oh, and, if the engine isn't getting any hotter than 220*, the rad fan won't kick on, as it's supposed to turn on at 235*. Although, it should kick on when you go to pull the codes from the ECM.

 

*sigh*
So, I go out today to throw the timing light on it and make sure everything is where it's supposed to be when, lo and behold, the damn thing won't run. Ran real rough for a bit then died and I can't get it going again. I checked vacuum lines and found that a couple were questionable, so I cut the bad ends off and put 'em back together. I don't get it. I'm getting to the point of either taking it to the shop or setting it on fire and buying a flippin' Prius and some Birkenstocks.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to go see what can be done to remedy codes 33 and 45...

 

In my experience, the code 33 will generally cause the code 45, as it commands the ECM to throw more fuel in the intake charge. Check for a vacuum leak to or a short in the MAP sensor wiring (low vacuum sensed at MAP for 5 seconds with closed throttle).

 

Thanks, Maverick. I'll see what I can find. The MAP sensor is new, but I've seen new stuff break before. I checked the vacuum to the MAP from the intake and it's good.

 

Yeah, I know, it's been awhile. Car still doesn't run. Checked vacuum lines and wiring and everything checks out. Still won't run. Tried again this last weekend and it fired and ran roughly for a few seconds and died. I'm going to go see about picking up an ECM from Pull n Save and see what happens. If that doesn't do it, I guess it goes to the shop.

 

I just put six new injectors in and the OHM reading on each of them are 11.9. So this is good?