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Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #1  
Jonboy2312's Avatar
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From: Montreal
Car: 1986 SC based 82-84 Z28 replica
Engine: 2.8 V6 MPFI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

I've heard two completely different replies... either behind the pulleys up front or inside the distributor. Which is correct?
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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Maverick H1L's Avatar
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

The correct answer is that there isn't one. Thirdgens don't have a crank position (CKP) or cam position (CMP) sensor, as we use distributor-type ignition. However, if you want to know where the cam-driven ignition pickup coil is, that's inside the distributor.
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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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From: Montreal
Car: 1986 SC based 82-84 Z28 replica
Engine: 2.8 V6 MPFI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

Well then, that makes me all the more confused i have all the symptoms of a bad crank sensor - RPM drops to zero while driving and the engine shuts off, only to resume in a second or two, and eventually (after a week, sometimes a day, sometimes a matter of hours or minutes) dies and won't start (no spark, but it's definitely getting fuel). Everything in the ignition system is brand new - ignition coil, spark plugs, cables, ENTIRE distributor assembly, and finally even the ECM.

Since the distributor is new (factory new, not a scrapyard replacement), then the part that serves as the CKP is replaced to... would that be this star shaped thing?



It's all new, and all the cables have been tested and seem perfectly fine. I'm totally, utterly lost here.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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From: Pigeon Forge ,TN
Car: Firebird
Engine: 2.8 v/6
Transmission: t/5
Axle/Gears: open/3.42
Re: Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

If you have replaced all you said I would make sure ecm has been flashed to work for your car or that even though your distributor is new you may have a bad ignition control module. I hope this can be of some help to you and good luck. I forgot to tell you to also make sure all you conections are tight. Check at battery , junction block , alternator , starter , and all grounds because i've seen cars not run or not run right because of a bad connection .

Last edited by 89-bird; Mar 9, 2009 at 01:12 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

Originally Posted by 89-bird
If you have replaced all you said I would make sure ecm has been flashed to work for your car or that even though your distributor is new you may have a bad ignition control module. I hope this can be of some help to you and good luck. I forgot to tell you to also make sure all you conections are tight. Check at battery , junction block , alternator , starter , and all grounds because i've seen cars not run or not run right because of a bad connection .
Anyways, since your ECM and PROM are obviously the right ones (MEMCAL didn't come about in the V6 until the 3.1 arrived, and the engine ran just fine before this problem, right?), you don't need to worry about those (unless you replaced the PROM as well, which is highly unlikely due to the price). However, like the guy above said, just because you got a dizzy from NAPA or wherever, doesn't mean it's any good (same with the ECM). Using a DVOM, probe the 2 terminals on the pickup coil (the star thing in the dizzy) wires with the meter set on the VAC scale. You should get around .2 VAC if the coil is good. Have the module tested (take the whole assembly somewhere if you have to since I noticed that there is a label on the module that says "DON'T REMOVE THIS OR WARRANTY IS VOID") to see if that's good. But, what has happened to me personally is that the tan wire running between the module and the ignition coil, which supplies power to the module, had gotten broken somehow. No power to the module means no signal to the ECM, which also means no injector pulse. You might actually want to see if it's not only your cold start injector that is firing by using a test light in one of the injector connectors. The CSI is independent of the other injectors and is controlled by the START position of the ignition switch and a thermostatic switch in the intake (the thing with the injector connector on it), so it fires no matter what if conditions (temp, ign switch in START, etc) are right.

Last edited by Maverick H1L; Mar 9, 2009 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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From: Montreal
Car: 1986 SC based 82-84 Z28 replica
Engine: 2.8 V6 MPFI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Where is the crank sensor on a 1986 Norwood 2.8 MPFI?

Originally Posted by Maverick H1L
Anyways, since your ECM and PROM are obviously the right ones (MEMCAL didn't come about in the V6 until the 3.1 arrived, and the engine ran just fine before this problem, right?),
Yes - it's super smooth when it actually works. It's completely stock (aside from removed AC and disengaged cruise control) and all the replacements are perfectly standard parts that normally go there.

you don't need to worry about those (unless you replaced the PROM as well, which is highly unlikely due to the price). However, like the guy above said, just because you got a dizzy from NAPA or wherever, doesn't mean it's any good (same with the ECM). Using a DVOM, probe the 2 terminals on the pickup coil (the star thing in the dizzy) wires with the meter set on the VAC scale. You should get around .2 VAC if the coil is good.
Well, that's already been done and it's even more complicated than that. But now that my question has been answered, there's no need to make it into a duplicate thread - I just wanted an answer real quick (that, and a second opinion), that's why I started it. Anyway, the main thread with all the little detail is here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post4072736 - your input would be most appreciated

Have the module tested (take the whole assembly somewhere if you have to since I noticed that there is a label on the module that says "DON'T REMOVE THIS OR WARRANTY IS VOID") to see if that's good.
Oh, don't worry about that, that's just an image I "borrowed" from some online store for reference purposes. Mine is already in the car - and has been there for a couple of months.

But, what has happened to me personally is that the tan wire running between the module and the ignition coil, which supplies power to the module, had gotten broken somehow. No power to the module means no signal to the ECM, which also means no injector pulse. You might actually want to see if it's not only your cold start injector that is firing by using a test light in one of the injector connectors. The CSI is independent of the other injectors and is controlled by the START position of the ignition switch and a thermostatic switch in the intake (the thing with the injector connector on it), so it fires no matter what if conditions (temp, ign switch in START, etc) are right.
Now this is an interesting bit of info I had no idea about. First, though, let's see if molesting the ignition switch will do us some good (it's all in the other topic - we should move there)... then we'll move on to other ideas (hopefully, the problem will be solved tomorrow... fingers crossed)
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