First off I know I've been asking a lot of questions about this carburetor and putting it back together, but it's a first for me and I just want to get it running again!

I eventually got the carb put back together correctly, all the linkage hooked back up, vacuum lines, etc. I cranked it and it fired right away just like it always does. I did NOT have my MCS hooked up as I was trying to see if the carb was getting fuel (before this attempt it was not). The motor was running extremely rich, didn't even want to rev because of all of the fuel I assume.

After running for a minute or two, I was satisfied and shut it off in order to button up all of the rest of the parts back on to the engine. When I attempted to start it again, I got nothing. It just cranks. I removed the carb again to inspect it, making sure it wasn't clogged and to ensure that it was getting fuel, and it appears to be fine. When I manually work the linkage I can physically see fuel entering the carb.

Prior to rebuilding the carb, I did a full tune-up. I replaced the dist. cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, set the timing to 10 BTDC, etc.

What could have happened? Is it possible that I fouled the plugs with the motor running as rich as it was? What else could I check? I'm at my wits end here and I need to get the Camaro running again so my wife and baby can run around in our Trailblazer while I'm at work. I appreciate anybody that could try to lend me a hand and figure this out!

 

An easy thing to check and fix is indeed the plugs that may have been fouled. Have you removed the plugs to inspect their condition?

 

That's exactly what it was. I pulled the #1 plug and it was black as coal! The plugs are new too. I wiped it clean and it looks fine, so I think after my new Mixture Control Solenoid comes in the mail, I'll try to clean them all up and give it one more shot.

This carburetor has been driving me crazy!

 

Ah, yes, the wonderful Rochester E2SE 2bbl....I've had lots of fun with them.

I've rebuilt this model about a dozen times. I had a 1983 sport coupe and currently own a 1984 sport coupe, both with the 2.8 2bbl V6.

If you still have trouble after cleaning/replacing the plugs, check your primary and secondary choke pull-offs. Those can cause more trouble than you'd think. Unless prices have changed a lot since 6 years ago, both of those pull-offs should be reasonably cheap.

Now the dumb float questions...Did you replace the float when you did the rebuild? If so, did you bend the float arm to the proper spec/angle to match the original? Incorrect float level can cause the carb to dump excess fuel into the intake. Also, if you used the old float, are you certain that the float is still good and hasn't sank in the float bowl?

I always warn people about the floats in these carburetors. A friend of mine with an '84 2.8 Camaro lost his engine because the float sank, and I lost my original engine in my '84 due to the same thing. These engines have very weak bottom ends, and gas in the oil will attack the rod bearings FAST.

Did you remove the factory cap over the mixture control screw, at the font side edge of the throttle plate at the base of the carb? Messing with that screw is not always necessary with a basic rebuild, although sometimes it is. If you make any adjustments to this screw, as far as I remember, you're supposed to use a dwell meter to dial it into the proper range of operation. On my 1983, I made adjustments to the screw "by ear" and it never really ran the way it was supposed to. I've never touched the adjustment on the 1984, and it runs fine. Personally, I really wouldn't mess with it unless you have no choice.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

I didn't replace the float, but I've had the carb open numerous times and its definitely not sunk.

I noticed this when I took the carb apart, but someone has already sawed/broke off the cover to the mixture screw on the carb. I haven't actually messed with it myself, I really wasn't sure how to ensure that it's set correctly.

What exactly are the choke pull-offs? <--My dumb question of the day.

As soon as this Mixture Control Solenoid arrives I'll fire it all back up and see what happens. I do appreciate your help!

 

Good to hear that you can verify that the float is good. Unfortunately, a number of people forget about it when doing a quick and basic rebuild.

The choke pull-offs are the vacuum-operated canisters on the throttle linkage side of the carburetor. As far as I know, they operate with simple diaphrams, so they should be easy to test.

As far as that adjustment screw, I wouldn't worry about it if the car runs all right. Odds are that if the car ran fine before your rebuild, and you haven't changed the screw adjustment, it will be fine the way it is. If you have a bad idle, or notice a real lack of power compared to what the car was like before, get yourself a dwell meter and perform the adjustments.