I have gotten my tax return, and I have roughly $400-450 to spend. I have a few options, and would like some opinions.

First my existing setup requires work. For the 302, I need a MAF, $50 plus shipping for an AC/Delco off eBay, NOS. That's just to get my fuel injection back in line. That also doesn't count if there is more problems causing my code 45 than just the MAF being off.

For the 730 setup, I'm looking at $85 shipped for a replacement harness (because I have absolutely NO idea WTF is up with the one I have that causes intermittent stalling when hot), and a T5 MEMCAL at however much for that. That's before whatever problem is causing the code 45 (or that WAS causing the code 45... not 100% sure if it was the fuel injection or ignition parts or some problem in the harness, or if the problem still exists as I have replaced the fuel injectors since I last removed the harness).

For a 3100 top end swap, I still need pushrods, upper intake plenum from a 93-95 with digital EGR (because my current one has the OBDII EGR valve and my digital one won't work), the top end gasket set at $60, the head gaskets at about $20 a piece, the above 730 harness at $85, a 16196401 ECM at around $50 shipped, some sort of exhaust setup at however much, fuel line fittings, chip burning equipment (Ostrich, Burn2, ALDL cable, MEMCAL adaptor, etc), a Buick ignition module/coil assembly and damper for Quick Start ignition setup. And I would like to find some way to generate a cam signal for DIS WITH SFI. Yes, I know it's a challenge, but I was thinking a modified 2.5 Iron Duke (or other 4-banger) dizzy with a cam-like reluctor disc that mounted a CMP sensor would do the trick, seeing as how the GNs and a lot of late-model 4.3 and V8 GM cars still use distributors and have the cam trigger inside the dizzy (some GNs have a separate cam trigger based on a dizzy but not a full dizzy... that alone is $250 everywhere I've looked).

For the engine itself, I need valve guide work (plus new valves, possibly), exhaust work (replacement of crossover and intermediate pipes plus the pass side exhaust manifold with one that doesn't have AIR), and an alternator rebuild set (need this regardless as I need a new voltage regulator at the minimum). I would also like to rebuild my T5, replace the missing shift rail plug, and replace the 5th gear shift fork (seems to be bent).

As far as performance parts, I'm looking at PaceSetter headers ($240 plus shipping from Summit for painted), and a Magnaflow or some other exhaust system (but need to pick up transmission and rear hangers). I'd like to do a cam, but that doesn't seem very doable on my small budget.

I could also pick up a 3.4 from a local yard for $250, but I don't have an engine hoist or any place to put the 3.1, nor any way to get the engine home (we all three of us have cars and no truck).

I want to hold on to the 3100 parts and gather the rest of the stuff to do the swap slowly so that I can do the swap sometime when my car can be down for the time it takes to do the swap and tune the ECM. Unless anyone has other ideas.

Big post, I know, but I'm stuck. I would like to get at least ONE of these issues (exhaust leak, MAF error) out of the way, and maybe get a bump in power as well.

 

My $0.02.....
First, I'd get the MAF issue sorted out. It needs to be done before the swap anyway, and the car will drive better in the meantime.
Then the harness, just to make life easier. Not a bad price either.
The rest I would throw at the exhaust. More performance now and later.

How much does a T5 rebuild run?

 

The T5 rebuild will cost me whatever the parts cost. I got stuck rebuilding the first one I put in, from an 84, but I couldn't use it due to a bad maincase, and I have the tools to do this one. I'm also looking to replace the 5th speed gears with a lower ratio set for better mileage on the highway.

 

Another thing is that if I get the 730 harness, I don't need the MAF (90-92 cars have a MAP, and I already have 2 of those). Anyone know where to pick up a cheap cat-back? Or just a mandrel-bent intermediate pipe?

 

Personally I like to buy the big cost items first, that way its downhill from there, hence I bought my intake setup first and then my heads, followed by my gaskets....which actually cost more than either of the other two...
Bleh at the SFI, is there really any significant advantage to it? I'm guessing mileage, but I know that at higher RPMs the injectors can't keep up and it just goes to MPFI batch firing anyways. But then I've got headache enough trying to figure out DIS.
Idk if your engine is torn down or not, but if it is just finish the hybrid build imo, a lot more rewarding for the time and effort...even though I'm really tempted to slap those boat anchors back on there just to be able to drive the thing....really really tempted...
Also if you go hybrid its MAP(a topic I still need to read up on, but MAF and MAP are mutually exclusive systems I think?) But if you do the hybrid you pretty much end up swapping out half the potential culprits of your problems in the process, so I would go that route IMO.
If all else fails, you could give it to me

 

I won't be getting the headers yet as I need to find out just how much the difference is between the stock manifolds and the new ports...

I still have to drive to work every day, and if I have to tear down the engine (say, to drill out that broken #5 exhaust manifold bolt so I can put headers on ), I'm going to do the swap.

I have the 16196401 coming, a GN cam trigger (got it dirt cheap!), the harness, and the plugs I need for my transmission housing. I'll wait a bit to get the 3800 damper pulley (for the DIS reluctor wheels) , crank trigger, and the ignition module/coil pack assembly. I'll have to find a yard that has a mostly torn down Gen II V6 for the pushrods... the guy at my usual yard won't let me touch anything that's supposedly "good".

:edit: OH, and the $DF program I plan on using with the MAF-based 3400 DOHC ECM, well, as I already said, that requires a MAF...

 

Difference between what stock manifolds and what ports? Chances are I know or could find out easily enough.

 

Size of the new exhaust ports compared to the old manifolds... Since I'm stuck with them for the moment, and that way I can figure things out for the header situation...

 

Do you mean the size of 3x00 cylinder head exhaust ports compared to the size of your current exhaust manifold? I'm not quite sure what you're getting at without being a little more specific...

 

Exactly... That way I'll know just how much bigger the ports have to be on the headers. Worse comes to worse, I'll cheap out and buy header flanges from WOT-Tech and have them welded to the existing headers.

 

Well 3x00 heads have D shaped exhaust ports, and I think if memory serves that with pacesetter headers there would be 1/8th overlap in one spot, so I believe you need 1 5/8 primaries for them to cover the ports completely. I think you'll need something custom fabricated to have the ideal setup.

 

on my 2.8 heads the exh port is between 1.0-1.1 inches, for the 3400(large port 3x00) it was about 1.159 or something from side to side, and for the taller height because of the D shape, it was about 1.22 inches. so youll want at least 2/10 of an inch wider if you use round headers I guess.