if anyone happens to have a vacuum diagram from the service manual they could post that would be great. as well as all the electrical connections in the engine bay

 

For what car? There isn't a vacuum diagram in the FSM, but there is electrical diagrams. Are you looking for something specific?

 

Diagrams for a 1992 3.1, nothing specific yet just trying to get as much info together as possible before I start putting it all back together

 

here's the ecm schematic for the 3.1. I've used this several times for my 92 bird. It's kinda hard to read, but better than nothing. I'm in the process of a 2.8 -> 3.4 swap in a friend's 89 bird now, and in my experience, you really can't mess up the engine wiring as long as the harness is intact. Almost all of the connectors are different and won't mate up with the wrong sensor.

 

If you're looking for an engine component wiring diagram, which tells what connector # is related to what device or connection, LMK... There's several of those in my 92 FSM. Other than that, the above should help you.

 

here's a scan of the vac routing from the FSM. beyond that, can't help you if you have cruise control. We just deleted it.

 

And now I find out I could be running the 91's charcoal canister right now because it doesn't require an air pump... Thanks for the diagram. The car I got my late-model harness from had the emissions stickers painted over, so I couldn't get a pic of it.

 

I should mention that I have the canadian FSM (only thing on ebay at the time i was looking, but hasn't failed me yet). I don't see any reason why the canadian vac routing would be any different than the US model.

 

I believe the Canadians have a different set of emissions regulations... IIRC, there is a ECM chip for each California, Federal, Canadian, and European/Asian regulations, but I've never seen either a Canada or Euro car, so I couldn't tell you. I know that the canister's "vent" connection in your diagram had a hose coming from the AIR pump on the 91 donor car at the junkyard, but since it's not necessary, I'm not going to use it.

 

that would probably be handy to have. the harness is in great shape, was just trying to find some stuff to look at on paper, i need to just order a manual to have dont i im kinda surprised that no one has ever scanned in a whole manual to have on the site

 

I've been working on it, but a pic from a digital cam isn't the same as a scanned image, and my laptop doesn't work with my ancient scanner.

 

has anyone else had a hard time with the connection for the knock sensor...i just put in the new starter and i cant seem to get the connector to stay put, one the little plastic crap that holds it on was broke and the starter seems to be in the way. any ideas?

 

You need a replacement, or just a way to get it on there? All you have to do is just push it on there, and if it doesn't stay and causes problems, let me know. I have a box full of 3.1 connectors I'm not going to need.

 

There for some reason isn't enough space between the connector and the small connection on the starter to attach it. Like the stud on the starter is longer than the original starter, if that makes any sense

 

Lower the starter a bit on its bolts and put the connector on before you tighten the starter up. That's about the only suggestion I have other than getting a different starter solenoid.

 

can i get one of these new? or the seal that goes inside it? it was accidently left in the intake when it was powder coated so the seal melted inside

 

Go to the parts store and look in the Help section, or special parts catalogs. It's a heater pipe adaptor, or a name of that sort. You'll need a couple of o-rings for the pipe, however.

 

gotcha...its part number 800-401 in the help section, 13.00 whoops

 

not trying to hijack the thread but.........can someone help me with the starter circuit wiring. where does the signal wire on the solenoid come from? I'm only getting ~4.9v to it most of the time.

 

V6 VIN T Auto... Signal wire to starter is purple, coming from the CRANK fuse and the neutral safety switch. Before the NSS, it comes as a dark green wire from the starter enable relay and a yellow one off of the ignition switch.

:edit: As a result, I don't have a clue as to how the VATS disables the starter, since the solenoid signal wire also comes from the CRANK fuse which is hot in the ignition switch "Crank" position...

 

hijack away lol

 

is the starter enable relay the one inside the kick panel on the driver's side?

 

Looks like it's tucked under the dash behind or near the fuse panel in the diagram... I know the one in the kick panel is for the door locks if it's gold in color.

The enable relay will have yellow, pink, dark green, and black/yellow wires.

 

looks like probably the starter enable relay is the problem. I'll try getting a new one within the next few days and see what happens. thanks!

 

Where do all the grounds connect ?

 

There is a bolt on the driver's side and a stud in the engine lifting eye on the pass side that the grounds connect to, in the back, obviously. Make sure they're all clean before putting anything together, or strange things may happen.

 

I forgot which wire goes where on the starter... Little help?

 

Black one and all of the red or orange ones on the big terminal marked BAT, the purple wire on the small S terminal, and the strap coming out of the motor on the M terminal at the bottom, opposite of the BAT terminal. The R terminal, across from the S terminal, is not used (for an additional disable relay, IIRC, in some applications). This is going clockwise with the BAT terminal at the top, also.

 

thats what i thought...for some reason had a huge brain fart. on the 3.4 lower intake it doesnt have a spot for the pcv like the 3.1 does in the back..anyone know how the pcv is setup on the 3.4?

 

behind both heads are are wires as well as a braided strap on passenger side...do those all bolt to the heads? i put the braided strap on the lifting eye but not sure where the others go

 

1. IF you're NOT running A/C, there will be a wire taped into the harness with another ring terminal on it. Will have 2 blue wires, and will be near the driver's side cylinder head. Connect it to the ground bolt on the driver's side.
2. ALL of those wires, probably 4 black/white ones, the ground strap, and a tan wire need to be grounded. At least 2 of them are for the ECM (don't connect these and you won't be going anywhere anytime soon), one is for the SIR, another for the wiper motor, the tan one is the O2S ground, and the blue one I mentioned is for proper functioning of the radiator fan with an A/C delete.

 

so basically all the ring terminals behind the motor need to be attached to the head/lift eye.. Except the one because I'm running ac

 

would you mind sending me the knock sensor connector?

 

PM me your address. And yes, every ring terminal at the back of the engine needs to be connected TO the engine, or you'll lose something you don't want to lose.

 

pm sent... well i do have an extra ecm but i would hate to blow one, im gonna have to break out the dremel to clean off the connection for the one that bolts to the head, wish i had got the powder coat off before i put the engine in..whoops

 

It's not that you would blow the ECM... It just flat out wouldn't work. I believe that the grounds on the pass side are all for the ECM.

 

attached all grounds tonight...was a pain to sand off powdercoat on the backside of the head with it in the car

 

You didn't need to go that far... Just make sure the bolt and the nut and the ring terminals are all clean, that's all. If the threads in the heads are still mostly clean, there's nothing to worry about.

 

eh better safe than sorry, everything is nice and sparkly....honestly everything on that motor is clean enough to eat off of

 

Ok, I've been trying to trace my electrical problem on my starter... I thought the starter enable relay was probably my problem, I jumpered the two terminals to bypass the relay, still "click, click". So, relay is not the problem. Checking voltage I'm getting ~4.8v when it clicks and about 8v when it actually does crank. (batt voltage is checking about 11.8v right now, its down a little but that is not the probelm). So, yellow wire comes in to relay from ign switch and checks the above voltages. NSS has yellow coming in and purple going out (to starter solenoid); it is after the low voltage check at and just before the relay. Now trying to figure out ign switch wiring. Which wire has the 12v supply to it? Also, for kicks, yellow wires running under steering column check voltage as above, also. The ignition switch has been changed before. So, any tips and (I'm getting ready to search) anyone know which wire is supply wire to ign switch?

 

Here's the diagram I have:

 

well, I'm pretty sure its fixed now. Stupid problem...too bad I just put up with it for years! The yellow wire under the dash that comes from the ign switch...had been cut and spliced for an alarm install with starter cut off. (before I bought the car then I had also hooked one up.) Anyway, turns out that the connections were not good and were dropping a lot of voltage. So, I took the alarm out of the circuit and soldered the yellow wire ends back together and so far the starter has worked like its supposed to.

 

so after looking at a 94 firebird this evening i realized a few things.. i shouldve kept more of the orginal 3.4 motor since im using the 3.4 intake. is there anywhere besides a junk yard i can get the factory vacum hoses and connections? or if anyone still has any of that let me know, save me from having to make so much.

also i realize i shouldve kept the 3.4 fuel rail becuase since im using that intake it would make that rail more useable than the 3.1. wish i had looked a 4th gen sooner lol the fuel lines in a 4th gen go over the top in the back of the intake and go into the fuel rail at the top. theres no room to run the fuel lines through the intake like the 3rd gen

the 4th gen heater adapter pipes would be useful as well

 

like so