So my car was burning horribly rich. it is a 91 camaro 3.1 liter engine. almost stock. So I put it in the shop and was told the injectors were bad as well as the fuel pressure regulator. replaced the regulator, now it starts fine. but idles REALLY bad in gear. Decided to put in fuel injectors but couldn't find anywhere that told me what stock fuel injectors put out in lbs per hour. so I got 21lb/hr from Accel. Is there an easy way of making this work or do i need to send them back?

Also, I run a tpi air cleaner into the engine for the air flow which is believed to make my car run lean. (never took the time to re-wire the air sensor in the old breather) Is there any chance this will balance out on its own? need to know by today so I can ship the injectors back if necessary. Thanks!

 

Unless you can tune the ECM those injectors need to be sent back. The stock injectors are in the 15.5 to 16.1 #/hr range.

Southbay (a TGO sponsor) has the injectors you need. Give him a call and he'll have the correct ones. And the Bosch injectors are at least ten times better then the stock Multecs or the Accel injectors.


As for the IAT sensor, keep it connected to the harness/plug and place it so that it reports the ambient air temperature. Somewhere around the stock location will work.

RBob.

 

not about to play with modding the ECM. I'm not electricity friendly. I will just send them back lol.

I left the little 6 cylinder air breather (minus the tube) in and the sensor is attached and working there. is that almost the equivalent of routing it up into the new air breather? cuz it ran fine like that for 2 years. I'm just trying to disprove my gf's dad's claims that i'm significantly ruining my car by not re-routing this sensor

 

Hey Rick,

I had an issue with the car running extremely rich. My car is a TBI. I turned out to be a bad EGR. It was telling the ECM it was cold when it was actually hot and would send a tone of gas. The car reaked of gas. Just a thought if you get your injectors squared away and still have the problem.

 

RBob is correct. Stock injectors for a 3.1 is around 15lb, we have them in stock, we will be more than happy to help!

www.southbayfuelinjectors.com
516-492-6504

 

No need too prove anything to the gf's dad, about cars. Best is to show him that you are a man, not a kid. Let the IAT sensor location questions go. Show him that you are worthy of his daughters company. By being considerate, compassionate, and a good guy.

Although way off topic, this goes a long way all around.

RBob.

 

i agree if you need new injectors southbay is the way to go... great people and good service

 

Am I the only one who doesn't think the fuel injectors are the problem? The CTS could be causing this issue, easily, and it's about the quarter of the price of a single new injector. I'd try that first. I think I will, as mine's reading 50* hotter than the actual engine coolant temp...

 

Well I know that mine are good because I replaced both this past year and had it tested with a separate thermometer to make sure it reads correctly. so those are ok.

replaced the fpr first to save money. starts the car up fine but runs rough (like its misfiring) as soon as I put it in gear. So I tore apart the top of the engine down to the manifold. unfortunately i now have to remove that as I was a tard and dropped a valve cover nut down the intake. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DON"T FALL INTO A PISTON! btw, any tips on removing the manifold w/o losing that nut??

 

HAHAHAHA he knows SOOOO much more about cars its not funny, but it drives him nuts that I swapped the air breather in without the sensor and the car still starts. I LOVE it cuz hes one of those people that throws their experience in your face. sometimes a little immaturity keeps life interesting

 

Use a magnet down the lower intake and get the nut out of there before it DOES fall into the engine. Remove the part that the fuel rail bolts to and stick a magnet down the hole in the lower manifold to catch the nut. Otherwise, you could break a piston, a head, a valve, or the starter drive (been there, done that ).

:edit: Did you check the resistances of the individual injectors before deciding they need to be replaced? Should be 11.8 ohms within half an ohm with about 10% difference between the highest and lowest.

 

Just subscribing.