Last June I noticed a slight difference in the way the car ran all of a sudden. No codes though. Couple months ago I had the MAF plugged and unplugged, and there was no difference while idling, except the engine light being on. (didn't run it for four months due to ignition issues)

Bought a new MAF, and 400 miles later I'm cruising along (was running maybe slightly better, but I'm not really sure) and all throttle response dies. Car more or less dies and starts slowing down.

3 seconds later it kicks back on and I continue on my way only now the engine light is on and it stumbles badly from a stop, then surges forward.

Cruising along it acts like it did last summer, only waaay more noticeable.

Code 34 (MAF)

I saw Mavericks ebay suggestion in the other MAF thread, and will check that out.

I'm going to start with the basic wire checking, and after that I'm not sure.

 

Outsch, I hope your problem doesn't cost you as much headache as mine did for me... Mine was tricky as it was a combination of a number of different little problems, but the blowing MAFs were due to a short on the MAF cable.

What can I say, check it for damage, try using a multimeter to determine if wires are intact and whether they short to each other or maybe the body when you wiggle the cable... Mine had damaged insulation where they were rubbing against the radiator edge. I never even spotted that.

After the mechanic fixed up the cable the MAF was being received by the ECM again, but it got pretty much melted by the short and is useless. Still waiting for the new one, I hope it gets here soon - I just can't wait!

If there's no problem on the cable then, well... I know squat beyond that, but I'm sure Maverick can help

Anyway, I just wanted to say good luck!

 

One other thing to check - there is a fuse on the passenger side - just behind the headlight (at least on my Firebird). It is in a holder and is 20 amp. I went crazy trying to sort it out and replaced my MAF as well and the check engine light did not go out.

Searched on this site and found a thread about the fuse, replaced it (since it was blown of course ) and no issues since!!!


Gary.

 

seems Dan is a big help to all of us on this board lol

 

A fuse too. I haven't looked at the schematic yet, but off the top of my head, if I don't find something wrong with the power wire, signal wire, or ground wire, then I'm in for a bigger headache.

 

There is another possibility, with the MAF being a solid-state (electronic) device. I would suggest that everyone probe their alternator BAT terminals with a DMM set to the VAC scale. Why? Because the alternator is NOT supposed to put out an AC voltage, or it's supposed to be as low as possible. I'm to the point where I'm going to have to go through my harnesses and put diodes into the ECM, MAF, and ignition module power wires to prevent the AC voltage spikes from leaking into each, which kills them. I've already replaced the diodes in my alternator 3 times, BTW, so that isn't it. And yes, I have tested them before installation.

I think it was the great TomP or someone who originally wrote about this.

 

Did you ever get the 165 swap with the Ford MAF to work? I dont have a MAF problem anymore after doing it. Its just the matter of getting the tune right. And I'm pretty close to there now.

 

Interesting. I've gone through my share of control modules too. Will have to search for this article to see what wires and what diodes I need.

 

Nope. I made an adapter (which I need to change again to keep the maf signal wire in the stock location) to make switching computers much quicker, but wanted to fix whatever the other problem is first.

 

The info is updated. bl85 had to change the MAF signal input to pin C11 due to a pullup resistor on the other pin screwing with the signal. Check the "V6 owners take a look" thread. Its explained there.