i have an 86 camaro with the 2.8 in it and the 5 speed. Eventually i want to do the ls1 swap but for now im just looking to add more power to my v6 to get me by until i have the time to do my swap. Im just looking for simple things i could do to get some power added. Im not looking to go way over the top here.

 

Bolt on mods, such as headers are a good way to add some easy power. Uh, better spark plugs and injectors will improve throttle response, k&n filters will add a couple* horsepower. I mean, those are all pretty simple and don't go over the top.

 

Exhaust Upgrades:
PaceSetter Performance Headers (PN 70-1206)
MagnaFlow Direct-Fit Catalytic Converter (PN 93456)
Dynomax Performance Super Turbo Cat-Back Exhaust System (PN 17493)

Intake Upgrades:
Install a cold-air-intake. You can find decent kits by Spectre at AutoZone and the like...

Ignition:
Better spark plugs
New plug wires
Better distributor
Ignition module
New/slightly bigger fuel injectors
And some dyno-tuning

Mostly bolt-ons...

 

If you're planning to swap out the engine anyway, the only money I would put into it is money for gas, oil, plugs, wires and filters.

The only reason I turbocharged the engine in my Datsun, even though I'm planning on a swap is because I knew it would be a few years, and many of the parts I needed were readily available and fairly in expensive.

If you insist on doing someting with the 2.8, look at thins that you should be able to retain for the LS1 swap, things like cat-back exhaust, and, well, that's about all I can think of that could be retained, but you get the idea.

 

it will be a few years till i get around to the ls1 swap. so im just gunna build this motor up for some power till i get around to doing the swap. i was also thinking about putting a different cam and heads on the motor and maybe an intake. this is the first time ive ever built a small engine. normally i do work on v8's, so this is all new to me so anything all yall can do to help me build this motor is greatly appreciated. also what about putting a chip in it?

the more i think about it the more im thinking of going all out with this build. only because i have a buddy that will give this build v6 a good home in his car when i do my swap.

 

That is the limiting factor for me...

If I have to start swapping internal parts to get more power, it's engine swap time. All the parts and work I've done have been external bolt on parts. The exception was a timing chain, but that was maintenance, and needed! If I have remove the head or replace the cam (even though it's very easily accessable on the OHC I6), I will sell it all and start the swap.

If you want to go all out, look at a hybrid swap using later gen3 660 top end parts. This will get you more efficiancy, and that means more power, you will also lighten up the car too, since the heads of the gen3 660 are aluminium, which also has other thermal benefits. Even in N/A form with some port matching work and some other supporting parts you should be able to net somewhere around 200 CHP, more with more extremem work, or forced induction.

 

gen 3 660? whats that?

 

Generation 3 60 degree V6, 3100, 3400....

 

ok will everything from the 3.4 work with my 2.8? like a cam, the heads. things like that?

 

got me interested now to

 

From the 3400? FYI "3.4" usually refers to the SFI 3.4 found in the '93 to '95 F-bodies, or possibly the DOHC found in the early to mid '90s W-bodies.

The heads, intake, and related will all bolt onto your existing block.

No, the cam will not swap over.

You will need to go to DIS ignition to make the top end work. This is where it is easiest to start with a 3.4 block from a '93 to '95 F-body, since it has provisions for the DIS crank sensor. You could also do as I did a number of years ago and fabricate an external crank trigger that mounts to the harmonic balancer.

 

so eccentually your saying that it would be best to just get a 3.4 and just drop it in? if thats the case i might as well just not build this motor and just slowly work on my v8 swap

 

could all you help me to figure out what would be the best way to build this motor. I want to build it up with as much power as this lil v6 is capable of. thanks for all your help ahead of time.

 

If you're talking getting the most power out of the 2.8L naturally aspirated, then see my earlier thread-post. Oh, but add cam and rocker arms to it...
But...you could get a lot more power out of this motor with a turbocharger.

 

which cam would you suggest for getting the most power out of this motor? and what ratio rocker arms would you suggest? And what about changing the heads?

 

Check out 60degreev6.com. Good info there. Gears & nitrous would be fun/cheap.

 

Well see...you say all out, but I doubt you mean it, because a 2.8 could make probably 300-400 hp N/A at the crank in such form, problem is reliability, cost, and drive ability. What you want is the most bang for your buck, that won't put a strain on the engine or your pocket.
Best way to do this is a hybrid build, which means taking the aluminum(2.8 has cast iron heads) heads from a 3100 or 3400 GM v6, along with the intakemanifold, fuel rail, injectors, throttle body and injector harness, you will also need the heads, and full valvetrain on them.
You will need to setup DIS because the distributor cannot be used due to LIM interference, and modifying the LIM for clearance is not viable. The exhaust manifolds from either vehicle will not work if memory serves, so you'll need custom headers, but I might be wrong, depends on the FWD exh manifold routing, but I know the 2.8 ones won't work because the port shape on the aluminum heads is D as opposed to the circular 2.8 ones. There are other minor issues to be worked out as well, like coolant pipes and such, the heads and intake themselves bolt right up, its everything else that isn't directly compatible, EGR also will be hell to setup. You retain your shortblock, including cam, 3x00 engines use hydraulic roller cams, ours are hydraulic flat tappet, and you cannot use the roller cams without modification, which I don't recall how I saw one person do it. If you want higher rpm/powerband, go with a mechanical/solid flat tappet.
The biggest and most expensive problem with this setup though is that you have to swap out the pistons or else go for max N/A with a ridiculously huge cam to lower the dynamic compression ratio, which comes with it's own set of complications, unless you're really dedicated to the project, and really experienced, I would not attempt it if I were you.

That being said, cam+lifters, headers, new aftermarket plugs, wires, catback, high flow cat, CAI or ram air intake(only if you don't have the TPI, those things are CAI from the factory and can easily be made into a ram air if you don't have or want fog ligts) K&N air filters, 1.6 ratio rockers with fiero VCs for fitment, though I've heard that is and isn't necessary , head and intake porting, bigger fuel injectors, ECM tuning or swap(megasquirt would be a good choice, as it is a universal ECM designed to be easily tuned), heated o2 sensor if you get headers, lower gear ratio on the rear will make it faster, aluminum driveshaft, not engine related, but they're good upgrades to get the most out of a little bit. Weight reduction, pretty much all I can think of atm but its late and I'm tired so I might have missed something, oh and boost or hybrid is the biggest power boost you can do to these engines. Also a 3.4 shortblock is a direct fit and not a very costly upgrade, the hardest part about it is actually finding one and transporting it. I picked up a complete running one for $200, and I mean complete, accessories, harness, even the flexplate and tq converter were attached,lol.
Whatever you choose though, best of luck.

 

wow that sounds like a lot more work than i anticipated. i think ill just stick with all the easy things for this motor and keep me eye out for just a direct bolt in v6 or if i can find the v8 for really cheap.

 

if the swap isnt going to happen in a few years look into swapping in a turbo'd 4.3L from the Typhoon or Syclones

 

1.6 ratio rocker arms would give you a lot more lift. I'm not sure about the cam. I'm just gonna throw out a 260/260 duration cam, but if anyone else knows better, please, chime in with better data.
Both the 2.8/3x00 hybrid and the 4.3L swap will not be easy weekend projects. They both require a lot more planning, time, and MONEY.
Basic bolt-ons, plus some of the things that 3rd gen RS mentioned in the second part of his message are probably more of what you're looking at if I'm understanding you correctly. It's your car, though...

 

All the cheap a$$ bolt ons in the world aren't going to make it fun. If you want the giggle factor you need 1) a power adder like nitrous or a turbo, 2) a different induction/heads that aren't choked up iron manure, or 3) a combination of weight loss, gears, higher stall converter and working over the existing 2.8 to get more power at a higher rpm.

But since I am a cheap a$$ and have played with my 2.8 turd a bit using salvaged junk I can tell you what made mine feel half awake in n/a form. F1ZE injectors from a 2.9 ranger make a big difference in throttle response, moreso than any other dirt cheap mod I did. Headers & an almoast open exhaust were good for bringing power up higher in the powerband. Beehive-style valvesprings & 1.6 roller rockers from a later 3400 will extend the powerband a bit before you run into valvefloat and advancing the cam 4 degrees using a cloyes double roller timing chain will push the power up higher in the powerband. 3.73 gears also made a noticeable change, although in retrospect I should've gone with 4.10's. You need to strip as much weight off as you can as well. I got mine down to about 3000lbs.

And if you're interested here's a replacement for your stock computer that would also work well with your next motor. I was also going to swap in a 3.1 converter since it stalls at about 2800rpm compared to about 2300rpm(?) for the original, but by that point I got a little tired of polishing a turd and added some nitrous. Then alot more nitrous. Then a turbo lol. Now it's fun. But I'm on a mission to kill this motor before I swap in the next one so I'm not really concerned with durability.

 

ya im still looking for something that i can still drive around daily if i want to but also has alot more get up and go to it. i also want it to be reliable. does anyone have suggestions on a cam for me yet?

 

Delta cams, just email or call, tell him what car, engine, and the grind you want, 260 grind is what I would recommend for your purposes, I wouldn't go bigger without other mods, and a way to tune the ecm. Get the lifters as well, total was $121 if I recall, I know it was 120 something.

 

how much power and torque would i expect to gain with that cam swap? or what would my power be around after the cam swap? ballpark figures. will work

 

I honestly have no clue, but if I had to guess, on an otherwise stock engine, maybe like 10-15 hp. Stock output is 135 hp and 160 ft tq for a 2.8.
Modifying an engine isn't quite linear in terms of increase in power output, for example, a cam and a high flow exhaust would net more power total, then each would separately if added together.

 

ok you say a 260 grind cam. i think ill look into that. any ideas on different heads. i read that the 3100 heads are alot lighter than these on the 2.8 but is there another mods that i need to do or they just direct bolton and go? cus i want to keep things real simple and just bolt on and go.

 

ok i just re read the posts on here and the heads wont be a put on and just go, id have to change the ignition to make them work....am i correct?

 

See my really long post...its a lot of work and not for the feint of heart, you have to change the ignition, get dished pistons to lower the CR, and other things.

 

ya i think ill just stick with the easy work, all the things listed above, cam, rocker arms, and the rest of the exhaust and ignition things like plugs and that. i was reading about burning a chip and swapping the ecm so i might do that do so i can reprogram everything. also i was just wondering about cams again. i know you recommended the 260 cam but what if i went with something bigger. i dont know really anything about cams but how about something with a lil more of a street/strip feel to it.

 

Well um...heres the reply to my initial email to delta:
"The 260 grind is a hot street grind. Little soft on right off idle torque. A 252 grind would be a bit better for daily use"

 

ok so whats the difference from the 260/260 and the 260/272. or even the 272/284. im curious and have no idea so im looking to learn

 

Those are intended for boost, so they have more exhaust duration than intake. Also larger cams raise the powerband of an engine, hence delta mentioning lower off idle torque, because the powerband was raised a bit.

 

ok i understand a lil now. im thinking about boosting this engine someday but not sure when ill b able to or even if i will at all yet. so for now i should just stick with a 260/260 cam right?

 

Really, if you want max power potential, don't waste your time with the iron heads, especially with a turbo, you will be greatly disapointed.

There are a few N/A 3400s that come very close in power output to what a turbo'd iron head 2.8 does.

Why limit yourself on flow? Flow into and out of an engine is what makes torque and power.

I just don't understand the concept of making up for the asthmatic breathing of the iron head 660 with a turbo, when you could make so much more with the genIII heads and intake, especially after adding a turbo.

I'm still in awe that I am one of the few that has built a RWD aluminium headed 660. I know of about 6 that do or have existed. It's really not that hard to do.

 

Have you put it on a dyno by chance after the head swap?

 

How did you do the distributor less ignition? PM me please. Dont want to thread jack.

 

Assuming your info is accurate and you have a 3.4 it should be relatively easy, just a matter of wiring up the pre-existing CPS and ignition module, not sure if stock ecm can do it though. But you already have a crank position sensor and trigger wheel, which is why the 3.4 is a much easier starting point for hybrids.

 

Here's what you're looking for killert.

X2. I'm pushing 15lbs through a mostly stock 2.8 and it makes gobs of torq which is good for tire chirping shifts & fun launches, but I can tell how limited it is by the heads. I still need to take it to the track to get some times so I can see what it's putting out but I doubt it's over 250hp.