Okay, finally dug the pic out of my cam. Yes, it's dirty in the pic, as it was taken a month or so ago. Yes, it's upside down. I had gotten the oil pan on a couple of days prior and was going to go and get replacement pan bolts (half of them have stripped heads ), but haven't done that yet since the weather has improved and I'm working on the body. Yes, for those who read my post a couple above, EVERYTHING has been torqued down with the exception of the upper plenum and fuel rail, and is ready to go. Just need the valve keeper, a decent set of rockers, and the pushrod checker so I can order insanely expensive pushrods because nobody seems to know how long their hybrid pushrods are .

 

Another question:

I bought this engine gasket set, supposed to be specific for 94-96 VIN M 3100's... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-96...item2eb18d03d8

I need to know if I can get away with gasket matching the exhaust ports without damage to the coolant jackets. Can't exactly port the intake ports with the intake bolted down, and I don't really want to remove the intake at this time. Reason I ask is because the holes in the gaskets are WAY larger than the ports in the heads, and I would almost think that the gaskets are supposed to be for the later model engines (except that the set has the plastic intake gaskets instead of the Rev 2 metal gaskets).

 

The ports in the gasket are supposed to be larger than the head, since the ports in the exhaust manifold are larger to reduce reversion. Leave them alone.

 

Again, thanks for sharing something useful . How am I supposed to know how far to port these things if I can't gasket match? And, again, I'll be using headers which are larger still than the manifolds. If I can't buy them, I'll make them myself.

 

I dunno, research?

Like I said there's a reason why the ports and gaskets are larger than the actual exhaust ports.

 

Imo just leave the exhaust ports as they are, reversion is basically exhaust gases backflowing toward the intake tract, one of the ways its combated is by making the header pipe diameter larger than the exhaust port, works similar to a baffle, another way is anti reversion chambers, but no readily available headers for the 60/6 have them afaik, you probably can port the exhaust ports out to some extent without causing more reversion, but idk of any way to find out how much other than trial and error.

 

I thought having the exhaust pipe larger than the port improves scavenging of the gases, since the change of size creates a slight vacuum that helps draw out the gases. If you are relying on the 'lip' of the port to somehow prevent backflow, you have bigger issues...

 

Funny, everything I've read about header construction supports this... Which is why I asked how far I could port my SMALL PORT heads... And yes, I know "small port" refers to the intake port size. The Pacesetters are only going to be temporary until I can find the time and materials to get some done. I can't find ANY headers on the market that don't put the driver's side pipe in FRONT of the engine before going in the right direction, and single exhaust is, so... BORING. The V8 guys can do it, why can't the rest of us? It should be easier for the six, since it only requires a 2" pipe on each head, as opposed to a 350...

 

The larger exhaust port isn't for scavenging at all, as I have already said, to help combat reversion. This is fact, this how it works. What happens is the exhaust gases when being pulled back towards the cylinder, will come to that lip and cause turbulence that will slow the exhaust flow in the wrong direction. There is no vacuum created at the step, what is created is a pressure differential. To create a vacuum the pressure would have to be negative.

 

Except that a properly designed header creates a scavenging effect in the primaries, leading to the loss of the necessity of such a step at the port...

http://blog.racingarticles.com/2008/...n-headers.html

 

Many properly designed exhaust systems have that step at the exhaust port.

That isn't much of an "article." Just a brief overview of some ideas that one guy has, which some are supported by what I've read for decades, some are not.

Do what you want, I'll continue to keep the anti-reversion step in my exhaust system.

 

I'm with six_shooter on this one, its there for reversion, and hes right about it creating a pressure differential and not a vacuum as well. Reversion is a fact, its not some sort of dire engine problem, its just an inherent drawback, its not as though the lip is absolutely necessary to prevent your engine blowing up, but, without it, you WILL see more reversion happening, try it with a fresh clean manifold with the steps, and without, see which one gets more soot deposits. But once again reversion is by no means indication of problems or engine issues, its simply a negative side affect of the intake valve opening before the exhaust valve closes completely.

 

Up!

Starting to put small things back together now (and finding new holes while I'm at it that weren't there before! ). I'm looking at these: http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...otormount.aspx

I'm curious as to whether these will work in our frame mounts... The rubber in mine is shot, and I haven't found a P/N on them.

Engine has a single coat of Rust Bullet silver on it, haven't removed the plenum to get at the rest of the intake yet because I'm out of RB at this time. Going to send the crank to a local machine shop along with the flywheel to be machined. I didn't mention the part where somehow one of the bolts on the #4 rod nicked the crank (yes, it was covered and I guided it in with my fingers just like the other 5, so I don't know how it got nicked) and I've worn a groove right down the middle of 2 bearings... No pics right now, but I will say that the whole shebang is silver with overspray on the oil pan because that particular pan is only temporary until I can find a chrome one (eBay) . Needs another coat of silver before getting black, and, like I said, I'm completely out of RB right now, and the stuff is $50 a quart.

 

Bringing this back with some useful info:

Had the crank and flywheel machined for $97 with tax by a guy that works for GM (in the Engine division). Crank is in. Still need to replace the chewed up bearing which is why the oil pan is still off along with the oil pump (need a bearing on the #5 and 6 rod caps as I swapped those into the #4 to get it bolted back together again).

Bought a pushrod checker and used it today with the 3100's stock 1.6 ratio fixed rocker assembly, setting the lifter seat the same distance as stock adjustable. Came up with (for those wanting a definitive number since certain people just won't tell) 6.288" exhaust and 5.938" intake. This is on a stock cam (going to install an aftermarket after I get a working tune on the MSII) with stock flat tappet hydraulic lifters.

Other than that, I'm saving money for the 1.6 ratio roller tip rockers and the trans rebuild kit I'll be installing over the winter. Working on a couple little interior things and also the front end lighting (new connectors on the 91-92 parts ) and finishing the engine harness (stinking GM not putting the reverse switch wiring in the harness with the auto trans wiring so I have to put it there!).

 

More progress...

New rod bearing installed. Oil pump drive has been purchased and installed. Oil pump is in, oil pan is on, front cover is on, water pump is on with the 3100 pulley I got with the engine parts. Bought a replacement nut (actually, rocker assembly minus the stud, anyone need a rocker arm with pivot ball?) to replace the missing rocker nut, have all 12 nuts and pivot ***** on the rocker studs. Not sure if I needed to or not, but I cut my stock pushrod guides and installed them under the rocker studs (except the 4 outer valves that have guides in the intake and heads). If anything, the guides give me more height on the studs so the nuts aren't sitting right on the end of each stud.

Finished the front end wiring harness, repinned to match the 1227165 pinout as is seen in the 87 FSM. All connections checked once, will recheck before installation.

It's the transmission's turn for a complete breakdown, and it's in the basement all broken down (except the mainshaft, which I haven't broken down completely yet). Going to need that bearing and blocking ring kit I'm planning on ordering... Decent amount of metal stuck to the magnet and the bearings are pitted. Funny how the inside of this trans is MUCH cleaner than the last one I rebuilt... I guess that one was filled with either synchromesh oil or engine oil... YUCK!

 

Up, yet again, having a conversation with myself...

Turbo guys and those running external FPRs... Where did you get yours, and who makes it? I plan on picking up an external pump (already have a carbed sending unit) and FPR with the tax return along with the pushrods and rocker arms. I'm looking for red-ish. Also planning on getting the WOT-Tech 6-AN fuel rail fittings and running stainless braided fuel hose from front to back (with stainless fuel lines in the middle, obviously) using all AN fittings.

 

So happy I got an answer to the FPR questions. Probably won't get an answer to this one, either...

So, I got the rockers last week. WOT-Tech took almost 2 weeks getting me the pushrods I ordered. I'm 2 pushrods short of having my engine complete. I have a bit of a problem. The crank needs to be rotated to get the #3 and 5 cylinders to a position where I can adjust both valves (pushrods are in place but the lifters are up so I can't set them properly), and it's stuck. The oil clearances were checked when the crank was dropped in after being polished, and were in spec to the FSM. I lubed the rods and mains with assembly lube and put the pan on, so I know that it's not rusted, and the cylinders were lubed with 10W30 and there's no plugs in the heads. Does anyone think things would loosen if I went and got a replacement OPS (somehow I can't seem to find the one I took off last year) and put a filter on it before cranking over the oil pump to get some oil flowing again? It was kind of tough to turn the crank before the heads went on, but it still turned even with the heads on and the plugs in the heads...

 

It should not be hard to turn over at all, you should pull the bottom end back apart and re-check everything starting with the rods.


Loosen one rod cap at a time, if the engine starts rotating ok then you found your problem. Mic that journal, check the bearing and check that rod end to make sure it's not out of round.


I've had 2 660's with the same issue, both were rebuilds using "good" rods from a running engine that were found to be out of round. Had to take all the rods in to get refurbished.

 

I don't think there is any issue there since I just had the crank polished, especially on the #4 journal I accidentally damaged while reinstalling the crank. Like I said, I got the crank back from the machine shop and dropped it straight in, checking the bearing clearances before adding the assembly lube.

Seems to me that the crappy assembly lube I'm using (some Advance off the shelf stuff) is a little thicker than most I've seen on builds on TV. It's almost like a paste (and is really difficult to squeeze out of the tube), compared to the stuff on TV that's just like a thicker version of engine oil. Heck, the tube is basically a toothpaste tube with a much smaller opening...

I managed to get the crank turned enough to get the 2 valves to close and now the engine is fully assembled. I spun the oil pump over with my drill before turning the crank, and now it seems the crank is a bit easier to turn over (yes, I put oil in the oil pan, even though I REALLY don't want to as I'll be replacing the pan with a chrome one).

Question for those who have done the build with the 1.6 ball-type roller tip rockers... Should I expect to have some problems with the rockers coming off the valve tips? I do have the stock pushrod guides that I cut up under the rocker studs for the middle 4 rockers on each head, but it's the 4 outer ones I'm worried about...

 

Yah, that lube is no good. this is what I use; http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...embly_Lube.htm

it's also good for fake blood.



yes, you should have pushrod guides on all of them.

 

I see you got your name changed...

You do realize I can't put guides on the outer 4 (one in each corner of the engine) pushrods because of the castings of the heads and intake, right? They do have a bit of a guide machined into the head and intake castings, but I'm worried it's not going to be enough... I never have read about this issue on any hybrid builds I've seen so far .

 

3100 heads right?

why can't you use the stock Gen 2/3 pushrod guideplates? all the gen 2 and first couple years of gen 3's used them just fine before the roller fulcrum rockers came out.


Unless you're trying to use Gen 1 stuff on there.. If that's the case then you may be setting yourself up for serious problems.



Yep, the Purple TA is long gone. Haven't seen it in like 4 years and got tired of being reminded of how dumb i was for selling it.

 

Actually, I had another thought last night... The stock, roller-fulcrum, rockers on a 98 3100 are the 1.6 rockers, right? If so, I might be able to swap the ball rockers for the stock 98 rocker assemblies on the 4 outer corners and not have to worry about anything since they're self-centering. It'll look weird, but I shouldn't have any issues with the rockers jumping off of the valves.

 

why not run all roller fulcrum rockers? As long as your heads are 96 or newer they're set up for them.


If i hadn't just gotten rid of all my gen 2 stuff i'd send you a set of the guide plates.

 

Well, which is better, roller fulcrum or roller tip? I have a full set plus 4 (for a V8 kit) of the roller tips with ball fulcrums that I paid $50 for, and, IIRC, I seem to be missing one or 2 of the roller fulcrum rockers that I got with the 3100 parts.

I might have to see if I can find a set of gen2/early gen3 guide plates. There was a bunch of FWD 3.1s and a few early 3100s at the yard I used to go to, and a few of the engines were at least partially disassembled.

 

Well, having both in one is ideal but in this case I'd say the fulcrums are better (people are welcome to disagree here). With the correct guideplates you'll be fine with the roller tips though.



You really shouldn't mix rocker types on an engine, it's just not a good engine building practice. Some people will use 1.7's on the intake and 1.6's on the exhaust, that's ok as long as they are the same brand/type.

 

Enjoyed reading the posts Mav! I'm amazed you are doing all this? Makes me want to tear into my engine and do a complete rebuild (however motocross season starts in 2 weeks and then my pay check goes to my bike). Definitely keep updating these posts because I'm interested to see and hear how it ends up!

 

200 RWHP was the goal. It was either hybrid or a turbo, and I don't really want a spooly thing. I already had the 3100 top end (small port, whatever) that I bought off of a dead engine sitting outside a local shop for like a month, and when the body mess was found, I decided a kick in the pants was in order.

Tried the wiring harness on the engine today, to make sure the alterations fit. Well, the TB part of it needs to be made about a foot longer and go with the injector wiring... And the actual injector harness needs to be made longer as well. And I need to find that bracket thing that holds the harness as it wanders under the front of the oil pan (and still need to replace the oil pan bolts). I also found out that, after 3 rounds of degreaser with power washing and a serious scrub with a wire brush, the rust-inhibiting paint that says "very little surface prep required" is flaking off. Not too happy about that, especially since it's the silver base coat that costs more than the black top coat that's already flaking off of the body.

 

Probably the last update. No, I don't have pics, and won't until the engine is painted up.

It's done. D-O-N-E done. I have new bolts for the oil pan. Wiring harness finished and test-fitted (but still haven't loomed the part I made longer for the TB yet), also the injector harness. Not going to put the new bolts in the oil pan until I get the chrome pan, which is also when I'm going to find out WTF is making the crank so hard to turn. Flywheel's still in the plastic bag I brought it home from the machine shop in (so it doesn't get rusty).

No, I don't have the accessories mounted yet. I need to get the pulley off of the power steering pump (removed it from the bracket with a wrench). Probably going to have to make an alternator bracket for the alternate mounting Mars uses on his (rather not deal with the tensioner and that garbage again...). Nope, don't have the headers, either. Body work comes first (no, still not done with any of that yet... Had to quit for the winter ). All I need for the entire car now is a complete set of charcoal carpet (someone sent me charcoal for the rear and brown for the front!), driver's side rear sail to tail trim panel, fuel and brake lines, fittings, fuel pump and pressure regulator, and everything between the proportioning valve and the wheels for the brakes and I'll be set . And, of course, every exhaust part between the heads and the rear bumper . I read in another thread that S10 headers may work? Could use some info on that, since there is a set on eBay that's $60 cheaper than PaceSetters... Going to have to weld the EGR transfer tube to the header primary anyways, so I'd rather not have to deal with the question "What is that tube over there for?" at the inspection place... Not that it's going to work, of course .

Also, project89, could use that msq or whatever that tuning file is for the MSII... Got the other laptop up and running and connected to the MSII finally and would at least like to get the tune file on the memory stick to transfer it over (and have a backup just in case), if you would, please.

 

Well, I found my answer about the S10 headers. I just hope I get a reply to the question I asked there...

New question, and I could use it answered kind of quickly: Would a cat-back from a 4th gen physically work on our cars? I don't know if it's stock or what, but there is a guy on local Craigslist that's selling a cat-back, for what I would assume is a 4th gen (as most of the other parts short of the TPI parts he's selling are 4th gen Camaro parts), for $40... I don't know if it's stock or what, but I need SOMETHING, and stock would be preferred for now until I get the MSII tuned as my neighbors are annoying...

 

Man, I hate asking questions and nobody answering...

Lost out on the exhaust. Doesn't matter because the S10 headers wouldn't allow it anyways.

New problem... Finally got the EGR transfer tube out of the remaining 1/3 (other part broke about 2" before the split) of the 3100 manifold (that thing was REALLY stuck in there, so bad I had to cut the manifold around the fitting!). The intake adaptor isn't working on my 1995 UIM. Doesn't fit either way, turned so that the exhaust manifold tube is on the left or right. Is there a difference between the tubes for the 3-solenoid EGR valve and the OBDII valve on the 98 parts? If so, anyone have the 3-solenoid EGR tube they're not using? I need to fab up the EGR, even if it's not going to work, to pass visual inspection... "Needs to at least APPEAR to work even if it doesn't" And yes, I'm going to end up welding it to one of the header primaries... Stupid NYS laws .

Also, went in yesterday to find out WTF is up with the crank being stuck. Had it turning, kind of hard, but still turning, when I flipped the engine back over with the pan on. Come out this morning and nothing. The bolt gets tighter in the crank (it's eating through the washer), but the crank ain't moving. There's plenty of light oil in all 6 cylinders to lube the pistons. The plugs are out (aka no compression to make things stuck). I'm going to go out tomorrow and get a coil spring compressor (need to get the body rolling so I can get it somewhere to be welded) and brake cleaner so that I can clean the main bearings so that they can have the oil clearance checked AGAIN. No, the crank isn't out of round... It was dropped in after being polished. Yes, I'm positive the mains are standard size and not .010" under (as I couldn't find undersize bearings in .010). I checked the tightness of the crank (as in how difficult it was to turn) after re-lubing each bearing surface, individually (and not with that cheap POS assembly lube I had, either!), and everything was okay. Maybe there is an issue with the #3 thrust bearing?

 

Well, the crank is turning now... Just for kicks, I switched the #3 and 4 rod caps, in case I mixed them up when I moved stuff around (no, I didn't number stamp... That's what an egg carton is for until you knock it when moving it and drop stuff, not to mention I don't have the money for a number punch set to use only ONE time). And it turns.

Still waiting for answers on:

1. Increasing the fuel pressure using the stock 3100 FPR (don't see how it's possible as it's sealed with no screws holding it together)
2. EGR transfer tube differences between 1993-95 and 96+ 3x00 engines

New question:
Use the dipstick tube from my 3.1 or the 3100, with the headers?

(I don't hold any hope on getting answers for any of these, but, eh)

 

Bump...

1. Finding a Cavalier throttle cable is proving to be a pain in my behind. I'm going to go to the J/Y I absolutely hate going to tomorrow (guy's cleared out his 3rd gen inventory for scrap and his prices are through the roof!) and find one out of a 1994 3.1 Cavvy wagon (if he hasn't crushed it yet... I haven't been there since May).
2. Ditching the stock 3100 FPR as I bought an external fuel pump kit with regulator (no more dropping the rear axle to change the fuel pump for me!). Will be buying AN fittings from Summit when I can and fuel rail fittings from britishcarconversions...
3. Bought a 3100 dipstick tube and put it in. Now I need to swipe a stick...
4. Had to take the pass side cylinder head back off because I conveniently forgot I needed to drill the broken exhaust manifold studs out of the #5 cylinder. Yes, I know, I need to get my hands on a rear 93-95 3100 manifold with EGR tube (manifold for drill guide and EGR tube because I need it).
5. Still working on getting the heater core hooked up, but it's going to have to wait until I get the intake back on the engine after drilling out the manifold studs...
6. Need to buy a universal stainless kit for the lower radiator hose. It's either that or I take the wonderbar off :nono: . I currently have the "stock" hose flipped backwards, but it's not going to work once I get the accessory drive figured out.
7. Got bored one day a couple of months ago and polished the 3100 fuel rail. Needs a bit more work, but it's better than the crappy paint that was on it .

Can someone provide me a pic of how their hybrid throttle cable is run? Am I going over the top of the plenum or under it? I now have 3 throttle cables (just got another wrong one today) and it seems I'm going to have to go with a universal if I can't get a Cavalier cable.

 

what an fittings do u need ? i have a bunch of stuff left over from my tt iroc build

 

In my Datsun, where I'm using a 3400 throttle body, I used a long throttle cable from a Buick Century (IIRC), mid '90s. It's about 5 feet long.

It's quite long, so it should fit any longitudinally mounted hybrid. It uses a round hole at the firewall, so you may need to file/trim out the firewall to fit it, but it was made for a gen3 660 equipped car, so it works at the throttle body end, and IIRC, should connect right to your pedal (I had to modify my pedal, due to a different type of original throttle linkage, and believe I used part of my S-10 pedal to make it work, that would be the same as your 3rd gen pedal). This cable will also fit the cable bracket that is mounted to the UIM, from a car, and match the throttle body as well, both need to be from a car, or both from a van, the issue when using the van TB and bracket is that the cable is more vertical, and would likely hit the hood, if not be higher than the hood.

 

Primary AN fitting I need is M18x1.5 (fuel pump inlet) to AN6... Don't know why it wasn't in the kit, but it wasn't. I have a fuel filter taking the slow boat from Hong Kong, should be here sometime before Thanksgiving, I guess. Also AN6 to 3/8 and 5/16" tube fittings.

I'll take a look around the yard when I get there and maybe grab a couple different throttle cables. Worse comes to worse, I'll get a Lokar universal (probably should have in the first place). Or go to the other yard (where I'm planning on getting seats anyways). Unfortunately, the one yard I started going to lately doesn't have a Cavalier older than 1995...

Was that Century equipped with a 3100, 3300, or 3800? I don't remember if the one yard (that I'm planning on going to tomorrow) has any left. I think he crushed the one I remember him having (with a 2.8, IIRC), but he has a lot of stuff in a lot of room...

 

i dont have any tube nuts or metric adapters but i did find this for u on ebay
cheaper then summit racing by alot
russel fittings 20$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-6480...&forceRpt=true
or cx racing 9 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Ano...5a9614&vxp=mtr

 

I'm using 6AN hoses and fittings... Summit is actually cheaper than eBay (and I'm not using 10AN lines/fittings). $4.95+shipping for the 6AN to M18 fitting. Cheapest fuel hard line fittings I found on eBay were in the $20 range, each. I can get 2 from Summit (one for each end of the car) for that price.

I got the fuel filter today... I wasn't expecting it for another 2 weeks (as according to eBay's estimator which is usually decent). Got the throttle cable yesterday. It's out of a mid-90s Cavalier, I'm thinking with the Quad4 engine (no powertrain). I tried to get the one out of the Grand Am next to it (don't know what engine it had in it as I didn't look at the emissions stickers and the powertrain was already gone), but it broke. I would say, for those looking here for advice, your best bet is to get the throttle cable from a mid-90s Grand Am... It's approximately 4 feet long (a bit shorter than the one I have which I haven't measured) and it's got the right TB lever end on it (one I have is a solid ball which is why I wanted to get the second one as well just in case). Only problem with either is the firewall end is tucked up right under the cowl way up behind the dash. Just getting the end out of the go pedal is bad enough, there is NO room to get a hand or tool up in there and release the locking tabs to get the firewall end of the cable out, and the tabs are hiding behind the insulator pad so they aren't easily accessed with fingers. As for the cable I have, I opened up the hole in the throttle lever a bit to admit the ball. It's staying nice for now. If something does happen, I have a spare throttle body (got one with each upper intake).

Also got the clutch start switch. Almost ready to see what resistor value I need for the dash's VATS module (for starter enable), but I need to find my other jumper wire first, as well as get the terminals I need for the C100 (I know what series they are, but the Delphi site doesn't have pics for half of the terminals and the ones that have pics are all wrong, so I have yet to find a part number for the terminals I need... It's not like I can bring one to the dealer and say, "I need 6 of each of these (just to be on the safe side)".

 

Our engines are tiny..lol

The 3100 Mailbu, are they the same heads as the 3.1 or is there a difference in the valvetrain etc?

I would imagine the intake is different.

 

Search "Hybrid V6" on here, to see what is different.

 

Well, basically, EVERYTHING is different between the 3.1 and the 3100, for MOST engines. I guess some of the later engines had the same crank (with the reluctor wheel in the middle), but that's about it except for the connecting rods. Block is FWD (different engine mounts, starter on what would be the driver's side), pistons have bigger dish, cylinder heads are aluminum with smaller chambers, better port flow, and differently shaped exhaust ports, full roller camshaft (and most 3100s after about 96, IIRC, have roller fulcrum rockers)...

:edit: Ordered the AN fittings from Summit last night. Should be here within the next few days.

 

Well, update:

Got the VATS figured out and made a dongle for the key ring. I was using the resistor in the female side of the connector with part of the locking mechanism for a couple dash connectors melted to the connector body. Wouldn't you know it the connector came off? Luckily I know which resistor I used... Need to get a new starter solenoid, though.

Had to take the engine back apart because my dumb butt forgot to drill out the broken studs for the #5 exhaust port. Bought a new drill bit and had those things drilled out in about 3 minutes. I can't believe that cheap drill bit worked better on those bolts than the ones I paid twice as much for . I have the M8x1.25 studs, but I need to get a rethread kit first.

Reassembled the engine and got everything set up except I still have the valve covers off... Going to attempt to polish them the same way I did the fuel rail.

Got the AN fittings installed on the fuel pressure and return lines, and have stopped there for the winter. Summit has really been making my life difficult with the fuel pump inlet fitting. Anyways, I have the return line bolted in, but haven't put in the pressure line yet (ooo, nice shiny stainless steel!). Those things were a royal PITA to bend exact to the fuel lines that came out. I still need to either get an 8AN to 6AN hose fitting, a 3/8" tube to 8AN fitting, or return the 8AN by M18x1.5 fitting and get one that's a 6AN. And more hose, lots more hose. Along with the fuel rail fittings.

Bought PaceSetter headers. Got them today. They're used, and the paint has come off. Which is a good thing, considering I have to weld my EGR transfer tube to the #2 primary AND cut off the factory EGR port before welding that shut (any tips on this, what metal to use as a plug, etc?). Where do I get gaskets for these? I have one gasket for ONE head, and that's it. I'd guess I also need the one for the passenger's header to crossover pipe, but it seems that the kits only contain the gaskets that go at the ports?

Realized I forgot to put in the MAP sensor into the harness. Finished doing that an hour ago. I still need to make my alternator wiring longer, though. Then the harness will finally be fully done UNTIL I decide to modify it for a manifold pressure gauge.

 

I see I'm talking to myself again...

Anyways, I found that the header flange gasket is adhered firmly to the flange, so I don't need that one... Lucky me.

Now I just would like to know if there is a decent mandrel-bent (NOT crush-bent) 2.5" intermediate pipe available for a decent price. I'm not in the market for a cat-back. My current muffler isn't that old, so I'm keeping it for now (and it doesn't sound like a POS Flowmaster or fart can). And I'm also not interested in paying $200 for the thing. I've already got to pick up a catalytic converter... AGAIN .

 

Do you have a scrap yard near by?
I get unlimited 2 to 4 inch heavy walled stainless steel pipe with mandrill bends for pennys on the dollar from my local scrap yard. I put a 3 inch down pipe and 4 inch side exhaust (no muffler) on the suburban for about $40.

 

Well, I got the headers in and mocked up. I will be welding the EGR pipe to the #2 primary and cutting off and welding the other one shut on the #3.

Anyone have any pics of the area around the starter with headers installed? Looks to me like half of the wiring needs to be rerouted from factory positioning (pos batt cable, wiring harness running to front of engine), and the heater pipe is WAY too close to the header for my tastes.

A word of warning for hybrid conversions:

When installing PaceSetter headers, the top nut on the #1 primary gets installed first or you won't be able to get the nut onto the stud. And then you need to use a wrench on it. I doubt that a factory 3100 nut with attached washer would work, since the clearance is tight on mine using a standard nut and split washer.

Although it may be that PaceSetter revised the headers down the line... I bought a used set that seems like it could be one of the early sets.

 

I'd love to see a pic of those headers now, I think I know the previous owner

 

I had to reroute my wires(just the main wiring harness). I know the headers are different, but i just wanted to add. I did exactly as you mentioned about doing above.

 

As Yosemite Sam said, "You might, rabbit, you might."

Going to have to wait until tomorrow.

Eddi, how did you do it? It almost looks like I'm going to have to drill a hole in the clamshell and use a retaining clip for the harness and find a couple more retainers for the battery cable.

:edit: Also need to go back junkyard hunting. One yard has the heater core pipe I need (non-A/C) but he's a ripoff, and the other has the lower half of my HVAC vacuum harness. Going to be fun on Friday, especially if the weather stinks .

 

Okay, here's the pic... The majority of the harness is hooked up. The couple of loose wires you see in the pic are for things that haven't been installed yet (MAP sensor, mainly). I'm working on a setup using the 305 driver's side serpentine bracket, which I haven't taken the power steering pump off of yet, and I still need to get a different front housing for my alternator before I can put that onto the bracket so I can tell how far I need to put the bracket away from the head. I don't have the hoses I'm going to use for the radiator and heater hoses yet, nor the body-mounted heater pipe I'm going to get Friday. Nor do I have the aftermarket 7x sensor setup yet (or the wire I need to get Friday), and still need to turn the ignition module/coil assembly around on the bracket (if possible) to get the wire connections facing the transmission. No, my non-A/C heater box isn't installed as I'm still working on my 4th gen box inside and need to see where it's going to mount in relation to the hole.

I've temporarily moved the positive battery cable and the wire harness, but I need to get something figured out to have them permanently attached to something so they don't end up melting onto the header.

:edit: Eddi, you wouldn't happen to have the harness retainers that loop around the wire harness and are held to the back of the engine with a couple bellhousing bolts, would you? I only have 1 at the moment. It seems like it would work, but I don't have any on the harness at the back of the engine yet, and I don't think there are any on my spare 3.1 harness (I believe they were gone on my 2.8 harness and I think I lost the ones on the other 3.1 harness).

 

Yes I just drilled a little hole then resued a clip I had to hold it up and in place. Your headers are a little different so you have even less clearence. But that idea should work on yours too.
I didnt have a issues with the starter wires being close, just the main wire harness bundle that goes under to the IAC,TPS and so forth.

Mav, I also just looked and cant find another one of those clips for the harness that goes on the belthousing. Ill look again tonight as it bugs me. I KNOW I have extra ones. Ill let you know tonight.