What to do.
What to do.
Ok, I have my 2.8l 89 Camaro. It doesn't run right, and I've decided I want to swap the motor anyways. I got laid off from Arby's and am now working at McDonald's. (YEAY! -.- Job market SUCKS I'm half way done with my degree ffs...)
So my budget is small. I'm not currently driving the car. I don't have a shop/tools other than a craftsmen tool kit and a front yard. I'm looking to have a car with future potential and reliability. I want to do everything myself for the learning experience. It's also an automatic and I'd like to convert it to manual.
Thanks,
FunkyPup A.K.A. Thank's for choosing Shalimar McDonald's, how may I help you?
So my budget is small. I'm not currently driving the car. I don't have a shop/tools other than a craftsmen tool kit and a front yard. I'm looking to have a car with future potential and reliability. I want to do everything myself for the learning experience. It's also an automatic and I'd like to convert it to manual.
Thanks,
FunkyPup A.K.A. Thank's for choosing Shalimar McDonald's, how may I help you?
Senior Member
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From: Traverse City, MI
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1 LH0 V6
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: What to do.
Lets see, small budget, no tools, no garage, and no experience.... Yet you want to swap engines and trannies...
Where do you plan on doing this swap? What do you want to swap in? Ever think about making what you have run right?
Where do you plan on doing this swap? What do you want to swap in? Ever think about making what you have run right?
Re: What to do.
Thought about fixing what I have, but I keep reading about how people spend as much money fixing/modding there 2.8 that they coulda just bought a 350. my budget isn't too small, pretty much whatever I make. It's mainly a learning experience than anything. I'll need tools eventually in life so I might as well get them as I go along now. I'll do the swap in my sisters garage or maybe in the yard.
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From: Traverse City, MI
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1 LH0 V6
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: What to do.
This is what I tell everyone who considers putting a 305 or 350 in their V6 car. Just sell what you have now and buy a car with one of those engines. If you wanted to do a 3.4 swap or something like that I'd say go for it. But if you want a V8, why not just save your money and time for modifications and buy a V8 car?
As far as fixing goes, the V8's are just as troubled if not more no than the later 2.8's. For someone who's starting out I would definitely recommend a V6 Fbody for them. These engines are far easier to work on than 8's and don't cost as much. That's why I went with the V6, and it's been a grat car to learn to wrench.
As far as fixing goes, the V8's are just as troubled if not more no than the later 2.8's. For someone who's starting out I would definitely recommend a V6 Fbody for them. These engines are far easier to work on than 8's and don't cost as much. That's why I went with the V6, and it's been a grat car to learn to wrench.
Re: What to do.
Ok, well with that in mind, should I get the 3.4, or work on the 2.8? Really I'm just trying to have fun and learn. But at the end of it all, I'd like a nice street car I won't be afraid to pull out into traffic, and can go fast if need be.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: What to do.
Fixing the V6 to get it working for now will be way cheaper than swapping in an LT1... Plus you will also save a lot of gas ($$$).
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Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, MI
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1 LH0 V6
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: What to do.
WAYYYYYY cheaper than dropping an LT1.
If I were you, I'd go one of 2 paths:
1. keep the 2.8 and get it running good. Stard doing some simple bolt on things like exhaust, headers, Ford injectors, 1.6 rockers, maybe a little head porting, 3.1 crank, or a hybrid swap down the line.
2. make the 2.8 run good and start building a 3.4 out of the car. Slowly buying parts and building the engine. Then in a while whan you have it all done drop in the fresh 3.4 and maybe a manual tranny.
Either one of those options seems like it wqould take you in the right direction. I'm on path #1 btw..
If I were you, I'd go one of 2 paths:
1. keep the 2.8 and get it running good. Stard doing some simple bolt on things like exhaust, headers, Ford injectors, 1.6 rockers, maybe a little head porting, 3.1 crank, or a hybrid swap down the line.
2. make the 2.8 run good and start building a 3.4 out of the car. Slowly buying parts and building the engine. Then in a while whan you have it all done drop in the fresh 3.4 and maybe a manual tranny.
Either one of those options seems like it wqould take you in the right direction. I'm on path #1 btw..
Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 473
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From: Norristown PA
Car: 88 Firebird.
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.27:1 Diskbrakes
Re: What to do.
I say drop in a 3.4l. And just drive it until you have money for upgrades. Atleast then you'll have a ride.
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 487
Likes: 1
From: Chilliwack, B.C., Canada
Car: '88 GTA, '89, '94 Firebird, '84 T/A
Engine: 5.0L TPI (GTA); '89 -2.8; '94 -3.4
Transmission: 5 speed (for all 3),auto for T/A
Axle/Gears: 3.45 (GTA only)
Re: What to do.
Well......, if you can't find a 3.4, you could also go the stroker route (2.8 bored and stroked to 3.1 - i.e 3.1 rotating assembly). From there, change injectors, go the hybrid route on heads and a few other mods and you shouldn't be too bad for a build.
To paraphrase Maverick, it ain't like the old days. Just dropping in a motor, hooking up the driveshaft, battery and fuel don't work. You need the proper ECM, wiring (especially if going from V6 MPFI to V8 TPI, and we won't even talk about VATS) front springs,........
So, as a few have suggested, start with the end in mind and go from there.
To paraphrase Maverick, it ain't like the old days. Just dropping in a motor, hooking up the driveshaft, battery and fuel don't work. You need the proper ECM, wiring (especially if going from V6 MPFI to V8 TPI, and we won't even talk about VATS) front springs,........
So, as a few have suggested, start with the end in mind and go from there.
Re: What to do.
If the money is tight and you need transportation I would just fix the 2.8 and drive it stock. A 4.3 would fit but you would need the transmission from a v8 car and the wiring and computer unless you carbed it. Not a good Idea
Seriously fix it and make it Pretty if it isn't already. 2.8 can do nasty burnouts
Seriously fix it and make it Pretty if it isn't already. 2.8 can do nasty burnouts
Re: What to do.
The 2.8 drives as it is, it just has problems. Let me try to explain the money situation, I work for min wage, I have section 8 housing and food stamps. So I only have to buy cosmetic items etc. That leaves about 4/5ths of my money to go to the car. I'm not trying to do all this over night, meaning it can be 6,12,18 months down the road before I get it how I want it. I have all the time in the world to work on it, just not a good spot and I would need to buy/rent the tools as I go.
End result, I'd like a car that has a decent take off, looks nice, sounds nice, and I could take anywhere. A manual transmission is also a goal, but not required.
I think I'm going to have to pull the motor anyways, with all that in mind... Will the 2.8 do what I'm asking? Or do I need another motor? I can basically buy a sh** load of parts for a 2.8, Drive it how it is until I pull it, and replace all the stock parts with after market parts.
If I can reach that goal with a 2.8, what parts would I need to replace or get work done on?
I'm not going to be in my situation forever, but this car is special to me. I don't want to do something and then re-do it all later because I went with a low budget build. To me, that waste more money. Even if you can afford it, you still bought a cheap build, and then bought a better, more expensive build. You're paying twice when you could have just saved for the better build in the first place.
End result, I'd like a car that has a decent take off, looks nice, sounds nice, and I could take anywhere. A manual transmission is also a goal, but not required.
I think I'm going to have to pull the motor anyways, with all that in mind... Will the 2.8 do what I'm asking? Or do I need another motor? I can basically buy a sh** load of parts for a 2.8, Drive it how it is until I pull it, and replace all the stock parts with after market parts.
If I can reach that goal with a 2.8, what parts would I need to replace or get work done on?
I'm not going to be in my situation forever, but this car is special to me. I don't want to do something and then re-do it all later because I went with a low budget build. To me, that waste more money. Even if you can afford it, you still bought a cheap build, and then bought a better, more expensive build. You're paying twice when you could have just saved for the better build in the first place.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: 89 firebird
Transmission: 700r4
Re: What to do.

ive been trying to save for a v8 swap or anything to make my 2.8 faster, got about half way to my goal and my transmission blew. 1500 gone just to get back to my 130 hp...
It'll feel good getting your engine running correctly, then just start saving so you can do whatever your going to do all at once
Last edited by obrien; Aug 29, 2010 at 04:01 PM.
Re: What to do.
Ok... Let me add one more thing, I don't need to drive this car right now. Walmart and my job is right down the road. Can someone explain the logic in fixing the 2.8 if I might swap it anyways? I'm not questioning the statement, I just don't understand it. 3rd grade words help.
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: What to do.
It will allow to you learn what it takes to do the later swap and not only get it running but to keep it running as well.
You're in exactly the same boat I am. My work is literally half a mile down the road from me, and I make between $130 and $200 a week, if I'm lucky. I'm doing the body work and the hybrid swap to learn to do these things if necessary later.
You're in exactly the same boat I am. My work is literally half a mile down the road from me, and I make between $130 and $200 a week, if I'm lucky. I'm doing the body work and the hybrid swap to learn to do these things if necessary later.
Re: What to do.
Ok, so I'll just fix the 2.8.
Can I reach my goals with the 2.8? (decent take off, looks nice, sounds nice, could take anywhere)
I mean if I had an endless supply of money what is it max potential of a 2.8?
Can I reach my goals with the 2.8? (decent take off, looks nice, sounds nice, could take anywhere)
I mean if I had an endless supply of money what is it max potential of a 2.8?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,598
Likes: 2
From: Davenport, Iowa
Car: Still a 3rd Gen
Engine: 450HP 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.11's
Re: What to do.
those are pretty subjective goals but a good running 2.8 should be fine for daily driving. I haven't driven a 2.8 V6 Fbody in about 10 years though but the one i was in seemed to get around ok.
Ive been in your place (managed a McD's for 5 yrs while i was in college) which is why i said to fix the car and save your money. When you have the money, tools, equipment and a shop to work in then worry about swapping engines and making power.
I've dumped almost 4 grand into mine this year so far and it's still a long way from running, i could have done a LS1 swap for that.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,470
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From: Waterford, MI
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: What to do.
No you dont have to pull it, just disconnect the exhaust and engine mounts, lift the engine about 4-5 inches and after a ton of wiggling and twisting, the pan will just barely squeeze out of there. its a pain in the ***, but it will come out of there.
Re: What to do.
Re: What to do.
Lets see, rpm's go from high to low just idling, after about a minute of the car being on it smells like pure gas, extremely sluggish, I replaced the MAF and it still gives me codes 33/34 even after unhooking the battery and re hooking it. If you try to push the pedal to rev it a little it takes literally about a second to respond. I think that might be it?
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,359
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Rebuilt 350 going in after paint
Transmission: WCT5, 7k & counting behind the 350
Axle/Gears: 4thgen disc rear w/ 3.73 Posi
Re: What to do.
With those symptoms, its not the oil pump.
You need to check for vacuum leaks. Start at the throttle body and work your way to the cylinder heads. You're getting the MAF codes because air is entering the engine that the MAF isn't measuring.
The gas smell and erratic idle is most likely coming from the ECM dumping fuel in to try and compensate for the extra air that the O2 sensor is telling it is coming in but the MAF is not. My truck has been doing the same thing for the last year and I know there is a vac leak. I just have been too busy trying to get the brakes working to worry about the engine.
You need to check for vacuum leaks. Start at the throttle body and work your way to the cylinder heads. You're getting the MAF codes because air is entering the engine that the MAF isn't measuring.
The gas smell and erratic idle is most likely coming from the ECM dumping fuel in to try and compensate for the extra air that the O2 sensor is telling it is coming in but the MAF is not. My truck has been doing the same thing for the last year and I know there is a vac leak. I just have been too busy trying to get the brakes working to worry about the engine.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: Traverse City, MI
Car: 91' Firebird
Engine: 3.1 LH0 V6
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 limited slip
Re: What to do.
Vac lines run all over the engine, but I think all of them originate on the back of the plenum by the distributor cap.. Follow them all around the engine checking for leaks.
I'd say clean your IAC and make sure its working too because it sounds like your getting way too much fuel and not enough air. I'll bet your O2 sensor should be replaced too. But none of what you listed could be caused by the oil pump..
I'd say clean your IAC and make sure its working too because it sounds like your getting way too much fuel and not enough air. I'll bet your O2 sensor should be replaced too. But none of what you listed could be caused by the oil pump..
Re: What to do.
Thanks, I'll probably check that this weekend. I spent the whole day doing body work on the car, tomorrow I'll prime it. It'z amazing how much help you can get when you buy cigarettes and beer. (I don't smoke/drink.)
Re: What to do.
Ok, so it took alot longer than I thought. We put some primer on today, will put the rest on sometime this week.
She won't start now : / Battery/starter? I hope. Haven't had time to worry about that.
She won't start now : / Battery/starter? I hope. Haven't had time to worry about that.
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: North East PA
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: 355 long block TPI
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: Richmond 4:10 Eaton Posi
Re: What to do.
If there are other issues with the car, (exhaust, brakes, suspension, rust), you are going to have to fix them regardless of what motor is in it.
So put pen to paper, fingers to keys, and internets to google, and figure out a _realistic_ price for what you need to do, before you lift a tool or buy a part.
Re: What to do.
What's wrong with the car now? Do a basic cost analysis. If the problems you are having are purely engine, perhaps an engine is the answer. (if it's not basic neglect stuff.. that is usually cheaper to deal with).
If there are other issues with the car, (exhaust, brakes, suspension, rust), you are going to have to fix them regardless of what motor is in it.
So put pen to paper, fingers to keys, and internets to google, and figure out a _realistic_ price for what you need to do, before you lift a tool or buy a part.
If there are other issues with the car, (exhaust, brakes, suspension, rust), you are going to have to fix them regardless of what motor is in it.
So put pen to paper, fingers to keys, and internets to google, and figure out a _realistic_ price for what you need to do, before you lift a tool or buy a part.
When it runs, I smell gas. It doesn't stay at a steady idle. And it feels weak.
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