Ok. I've been having problems with my car for quite a while now. It started misfiring and stuff like that, so I took it to a repair shop to see if they could figure it out. They suggested changing the spark plugs and wires, so I did, with little to no affect. Not long after that, I also replaced the air filter and fuel filter. The problems got more serious not too long after. It would misfire randomly and more than occasionally, and it would sputter/surge and die just while I'd have it warming up. It wouldn't always die while driving it. But when it would, it would surge very intensely and the check engine light would flash. Well, it's been sitting for almost three months, and I've gone on to replace the distributor cap and rotor, ignition control module, ignition coil, the distributor pick up assembly, MAP sensor and Coolant Temperature sensor. There are no longer any codes when jumping the two terminals in the scan tool port thing. It either backfires, fires randomly, or doesn't fire at all when I try to start it. I'm not sure what to do. I also have a video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsbN01IOf90 .... Any advise would be much appreciated. I don't know everything about cars and such, so please don't rip on me. I just need help to get my car running again. Thanks!

 

1) In the video, you are changing the timing - but timing is computer controlled. You have to unplug the EST wire to change/adjust timing - the computer is constantly changing the timng and you can't get any base reading at all with that EST wire connected. This doesn't really have anything to do with your problem at the moment, just making sure you were aware, so that when you do get it running, you know how to adjust base timing.

2) I'd go back to the basics... I know I know - but 95% of all problems are something stupid ....

+ I know you have, but recheck firing order again.
+ When you did distributor work, did you pull out the distributor?
+ If so, did you get it set back so that rotor points to #1 spark plug wire on the COMPRESSION stroke? Remember there are two revolutions of the engine for every complete valvetrain cycle - you must be on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder - you need to have someone turn motor over by hand while you hold finger over #1 plug hole - when you feel air pressure you are on compression stroke, then align mark with zero on timing tab, then set #1 plug wire on distr cap and follow firing order
+ You mentioned new wires - have you checked continuity on them? Many times I've bought "new" wires that had breaks in them.

3) You need fuel, spark, air - are you getting fuel? Pump priming?

4) Have you pulled plugs to see what they look like? Wet with gas? Did you gap them properly? I'd pull one at a time and check them out.

 

Thank you for the advise. I've tried unplugging the EST wire, with not much difference. I actually got it running earlier today! I was so excited. It just wouldn't stay running. I did pull the distributor out when I worked on it, and I tried to get it back where I put it by marking where the rotor was before and after I pulled it up. I'm not 100% sure it's in the right place though. I've been checking and rechecking the firing order so many times....that's the one thing I know with this car. lol. And today I took out the spark plugs out one at a time and cleaned them off, and they all had fuel on them. After I cleaned them all off, it started and ran for almost a minute or so. It was just running very rough, and there wasn't much response when I'd push the throttle. I'll have to check the wires individually. I haven't thought of that. I know I've got the basic components I need for it to run, they're just not happening at the same time. Thanks again.

 

great video. From your description of the symptoms, I would check the fuel pressure to see if it is in specs. Also, do you know when the fuel filter was replaced? A clogged fuel filter and /or a bad fuel pump can cause these symtoms. The video suggests some backfiring through the intake. You must make sure the distributor is correctly installed, such as having the no 1 cylinder on the compresion stroke, and the igniton rotor pointing to where the number one wire terminal is on the distributor cap.. make sure you've installed the ignition wires in the correct firing order on the cap. If you do not have any repair manuals such as Chiltons or Haynes, i strongly suggest you get them as they offer a lot of repair info. I hope this reply helps you.

 

Thanks for the advise. I had just replaced the fuel filter in October I think, about a month before it quit running. I had to make a new fuel line in the process from the tank to the filter....it was my first time doing the filter...lol. My brother checked for fuel pressure, and he said it was good, but I wasn't there to see what it was to compare it to specs. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge either. I'll have to have him come over and try it again. I've checked to make sure the distributor and wires are right so many times, and it still back fires or fires randomly. I still need to check the wires individually like camaronewbie said. I have a Haynes manual too. That's what makes it easy to check the firing order and everything.

 

I hope your ECM is firing the fuel injectors. You could find (maybe buy or borrow) a test light called a " Noid light". how it works is that you unplug a fuel injector and plug the noid light in to the connector for the fuel injector and crank the engine over while watching the noid light. If the ECM injector driver is working, the noid light will flash as it reads the pulses coming from the ECM. This shows the ECM is sending electric pulses to the injectors. but without being there, it's a hard thing to diagnose. FYI, i am a tram driver for the two NASCAR events held at our local racetrack, soI won't be oline untill next week.

 

I'm pretty sure they're "firing". How else would there be fuel on the spark plugs when I remove them? I was wondering....could it be the Electronic Spark Control module?

 

I'm back from the track for today. hey ,my 1991 RS 3.1 did something like that, no start or barely started and I took off the rubber air intake tube so I could see the throttle body. i held it open while my son cranked the engine over and a lot of fuel spilled from a vacuum line into the throttle body which was flooding the engine. the cause was the fuel pressure regulator diaphram had ruptured allowing fuel into the vacuum line which put too much into the engine. you can check for that by pulling the vacuum line off the regulator and checking for fuel leaking out. The diaphram is sold by Autozone, but you'll also need a small torx 'security " bit set as the screws are a number 10 'security" or "anti tamper" is the correct term. after I replaced the diaphram, I removed the spark plugs and cleaned them with brake wash and after installing them, it fired right up and ran fine.

 

Ok. Thanks. I'm thinkin' that might be my problem. Thanks a lot! I'm going to check that tomorrow after noon. That'd be awesome if this was finally the end of my problems. Thanks again.

 

I tried seeing if the fuel pressure regulator is bad, and it doesn't seem to be. No fuel was leaking out of where the vacuum line comes out. I don't know what to do now.....I'm lost. I've checked the timing so much, I don't know how how it could be wrong.. I'm almost ready to get rid of the car. Thanks