I saw in the FAQ section that a stock 350 with the fuel pressure bumped up 4 psi netted an 11 hp gain and 7 lbs. of tq. at the wheels. I was wondering what kind of gain I could see on my 2.8 if I bumped up my fuel pressure 4 psi? Would I gain anything at all?

Thanks.

Aaron
89 Z24
2.8 MPFI / 5 spd.

 

I was wondering the same thing a few months back, but someone told me you couldn't up the fuel pressure on a V6 Something about there not being an adjustable gauge on there or something. I know I worded that wrong but oh well.

------------------
Red 1986 SC, 2.8L, newly rebuilt 700R4, 3.42 Posi, t-tops, 133K miles and counting, K&N air filters, hopefully more to come!

 

I think you would have to buy a fuel pump with adjustable pressures. I don't know of any vehicles that come with a stock adjustable pump.

------------------
My only mod: Flowmaster 40 series

 

you would see a small gain, but the problem being our v6's dont have a adjustable regulator, rather actually i dont think any of our cars do, however for our v8 counterparts they make a adjustable pressure regulator, a item ive never seen for our cars.. , and if they did make one i have no clue how you would adjust it being it is smackdab under the upper intake plenum... someone mentioned installing a regulator inline with the fuel return line.. i suppose this could work possibly.. anyone try it?

 

Upping your fuel pressure MUST be done in conjuction with altering your eprom to recognize the increase fuel flow for it to perform properly.

If you just up your fuel pressure, you will most likely run rich through out operating range of the engine. In closed loop, the ecm will compensate at part throttle to keep the mixture at 14.6, but in open loop (while you are warming up the engine) or @ WOT, you are most likely running too rich. Which just burns gas and often can hurt performance.

The concept of higher pressure/shorter pulse widths is good for making additional power, but unless the eprom is adjusted to tell the ecm that you have increase flow, you won't be shortening the pulse width and can hurt performance by now being overly rich.

Where an AFPR really helps, is where someone has modded their engine and now the engine's increased air flow requires this additional fuel to avoid a lean condition. But this too is best done in conjunction with burning a new eprom.

As for the FPR not being adjustable on a V6, why not consider doing what some of the V8 guys do...make your own? I have not seen where the FPR is located on a V6 or how it is made, but if it is similar to the V8s, you just braze a nut onto the top of the "hat" and then put a screw in it, that will turn down on a coin that pushes harder on the diaphram (regulator). That is all what an AFPR really is. The problem you might have is, the V6 FPR may be located in a place that is difficult to adjust, or it may not allow enough clearance between the plenum and the screw in the "hat".

 

Well to add some to what was previously said you need a modded engine that need extra fuel. From TPIS test you actually loose peak HP buy like 1 or 2 hp. Though on a mildly modified 350TPI and increase to 50psi showed like 30hp and 40lbs of TQ @ around 2500rpm. The result of this is a flatter torque curve and more Tq and HP down low. This is where you really need it for acceleration. The AFPR was the single greates mod I did to my car. I could really tell a difference when I put it on. At that time though I had Lots of mods done, Full ignition, removed Smog crap. Flowmaster exhaust. K&N with mofdified air box and an Air foil. Basically I only put it up to 86 from a stock so I wouldn't run rich. WOuldn't you know the 46 was almost pefect for the O2 sensor. Huh I guess sometimes you get lucky.
My point is in short. If you have doen mods then yes do a AFPR. if not hold off till you need more fuel.

 

I meant 46 from the stock 42 sorry

 

I would love to know if TPIS did that test on 1) a modded engine that needed the extra fuel or 2) did they use an eprom optimized for the increased fuel.

I've read a lot of TPIS' claims of parts adding "big power" when compared to another, but I've always noticed that these tests were done on a "test mule" 383 with AFR heads, etc. Of course a little extra air or extra fuel will help in those cases.

Personally, I think 50 psi is too high for the stock fuel pump and that 46-48 is about as high as you might want to consider, unless you enjoy replacing fuel pumps all the time.

But, I guarantee you that I had an eprom optimized for 46 psi and then just bumped up the fuel pressure to 50 psi, I would NOT get any performance increase and probably loose power through out my power band...since it would be less than optimal for Air Fuel Ratio and be running too rich.

Remember the TRUE PURPOSE of TPIS' table testing different fuel pressures... to sell you one of their AFPRs.

PS: They sure as the hell don't tell you the REAL TRUTH about their relocated MATs...it tricks the computer into thinking there is a greater temperature difference between the MAT and the CTS...so the ecm adds more fuel by increasing the injector pulse width. This mod is similar to the AFPR...this is only a useful mod IF you need more fuel @ WOT. But, as the stock GM chip goes, it is already over rich. So what you REALLY want to do is lean it.. not richen it, on a basically stock motor.

 

Glenn91L98GTA, your knowledge scares me sometime.. you an vader need to go head to head :P

 

Nah, just another gear-head that at one time or another, started to question things and I REALLY wanted to know what was going on.

One of the biggest eye-openers was when I started to "look inside" the eprom. I had a ton of analysis that I had done with my Diacom+ and noticed that some of these claims by companies, like TPIS was not exactly true.

Once I started to get into eprom burning, I started to read the "hack" for my eprom and realized WHY I had some weird results...I wasn't told the WHOLE TRUTH by these manufacturers. I doesn't exactly please me that I wasted my money on some mods that turned out to be actually detrimental to performance.

But that is why we are all here: to learn and share information with each other. I learn something new here almost everyday. Guess that is why I spend so much time here.

 

YEs you are correct that TPIS does do a lot of testing on modified engines, but they tell you that. Its not like they hide it.

Im telling you from experience, My car woke the **** up when I put mine on. The thing behind the AFPR that you are missing is that you dont always increase fuel pressure to get more fuel, when there is more pressure you get a better cone spray that helps the fuel mix with the air. This does two things. 1. cools the air because of heat gain(by the fluid) to change phase from a Liquid to a gas. Then you have a better mixture that will burn faster. I think the reason why TPIS shows a 30Hp increase at 2500rpms is because of this. Then what your geting at about being rich is probably why you lose 1-5hp on top end.
From looking a dyno sheets and what cars run on the track, I will trade 30hp@2500rpm andy day for a loss of 5hp up top. Your acceleation will be greatly improved and you will be able to feel it.

 

I doubt the "single greatest mod" could be an AFPR. So basically, Kyle's, it sounds as if your fuel pump is dying, and your injectors are clogged.

"As I've heard it", if you do a major V6 mod, such as porting the heads, and notice that the car is slower, you might want to look into increasing the fuel pressure- and that's what Glenn already said.

There was a guy (James) with a 13 sec 3.8 V6. After head porting work, his car ran slower. He found out he's was running lean, and was going to add an AFPR. This was a few years ago, I assume he's done it by now


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Well ok single best minus the 350
I had done a few mods up to that point so maybe I needed the extra fuel, and the better mixtuer helped A LOT in a 305 head.
Bad fuel pum and clogged injector huh, sure I bet that was it. Lets see that was about 25,000 miles ago and the pum is still working, plus it runs a 13.9 1/4 mile with a clogged injector huh? I tell you what I get sick of some of you V6 guys thinking your always right. HELLO in there I did it and Im telling you my results, how can you dispute that???????? Its not like Im saying it took a full second off my 1/4 mile time, Gee.
Anyways pulled the TPIS tes and the tes was perforemed on a 305TPI MAF with a Fast Pak installed (Air Foil, wires, filter, and other such things) most improvement was +26.3hp@3750rpm and +37.2lbs ft of torque @3500rpm.
losses were 2.5 of each at 5000rpm
Sounds like a good mod to me with minimal mods.

Kyle F

 

Yes Kyle, I too am a firm believe in "higher fuel pressure/shorter pulse widths"...within limits based on the fuel pump you have.

But the key is "shorter pulse widths" and that requires modifying the eprom. If your engine already has its pulse width optimized at a lower fuel pressure, you will be running overly rich at higher pressures...therefore you must shorten the pulse width to take full advantage of the higher fuel pressure.

As TomP mentioned, the only time a fuel pressure change by itself results in more power is when the engine is already starved for fuel. And that generally happens when you've made mods to your engine, haven't added larger injectors and haven't optimized the eprom.

I will say that at part throttle, higher fuel pressure, by itself, will make the engine feel torquier because the ecm is in closed loop and is compensating (within limits) by shortening the pulse width. The problem occurs when you go WOT. The ecm then relies solely on tables in the eprom as you are now in "WOT mode" and the ecm ignores the O2 sensor.

This is something TPIS never tells you anywhere in their literature, just like they don't explain that a relocated MAT causes the ecm to increase the injector pulse width and can cause problems based on how the GM ecm uses this information.

But, I've said it before and I'll say it again, these are tricks from the early 80s when no one (except a few experts that charge big bucks) could modify the eprom. These are all "work arounds" the real problem...the eprom.

 

Glenn, you can actually change the pulse width of the injectors? Geez! I might have to start saving for this prom burning stuff!

Like I told you in another message, when it gets warm, that ADS chip is coming out and the stock one going back in. Hm- maybe I should run at the track with the ADS chip, and then without any mods at all, go back and use the GM chip. Hmmmm...


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

TomP, sure can. You can do it a variety of ways. A lot depends on your induction system and ecm. The V6 MPI guys are lucky, you have the same system as us SD TPI guys. I haven't seen a bin for a V6 car, but I believe you would use the same Editor and TDF file as I would with my SD TPI. Some of the earlier years may use something different. But late 80s V6 MPI were using the 730 ecm and SD before even the V8s.

When I wanted to make a global change (to account for my higher than stock fuel pressure), I just increased the Injector Flow Constant to a higher value to recognize the higher flow rate from the increased fuel pressure. Because I have a TB bypass, (I disconnected the relocated MAT...causes too much problems for the ecm in cold temperatures), this also causes my ecm to add too much fuel. I was WAY OVER RICH.

I ended up increasing my flow constant from 22# to 25#, almost a 15% change - but that is what my engine wanted. This change got my idle VERY SMOOTH and damn close to near perfect 128/128 BLM/INT.

With the idle now perfect (and I mean perfect now), I now am concentrating on my "Volumetric Efficiency Tables", which control the Injector Pulse width at a specific RPM/MAP reading. Again, I found that my high MAP readings (basically WOT) were still too high using the stock GM values (I gave up on my ADS because of the errors I found in the tables), and I further lowered them.

Overall, I ended up removing a LOT of fuel from my system... I was way too rich. I attribute a fair amount to the 46 psi fuel and the TB Bypass. But there was still far too much fuel even when I corrected for those. That's when I realized the GM eprom is overrich by design... better from a warranty perspective to have cars slightly rich and performing slightly less than optimal...than running lean and mean...and detonating.

 

It never fails. You guys manke valid points about pulse width and stuff like that. Sure its all true, but did you even read my post all the way. Obviously not so I will repeat myself some.
I had a more modifications to my 305 when Iput mine on than the TPIS' "test Mule" did. So I need the extra fuel, which I stated that I thought I did earlier. I also stated that you will lose some HP at peak. I also stated that not every car needs this and if you have mods it will help.
I think instead of answering questions, sometimes people just want to show off what they know. I don't remember importfighter asking if he should reprogram his prom. He wanted to know if bumping up 4PSI would help in his engine.
Aaron here is your answer your looking for, which I tried to give you before.
If you have a modded engine, like cold air intake, a good exhaust, better ignition, and anything else that increases airflow in and out of the engine then yes IT WILL HELP WITHOUT REPROGRAMMING THE PROM. If you engine is basically stock it will not help with out reprogramming the prom because you will be way to rich without more airflow. Now if you do extensive mods you could raise your fuel pressure by 10PSI, out a bigger pump on, and then Supercharge the boy with no trouble.

 

Kyle, first my last post was direct to TomP, and speaking of not reading prior posts....if you read one of my earlier posts, I clearly stated "that one of the only valid reasons to add a AFPR without compensating with re-programming, is because you have heavily modded your engine"...

But PLEASE NOTE, that is just a stop gap. Again, you are doing a "work around" the real solution...modifing the eprom.

But, better ignition, cold air, exhaust... are just "tune up items". Hot rodders still consider your engine basically stock. Redoing your intake, cam, heads...now those are mods. As for supercharing/turbo charings...do you know WHAT the real problem with those mods on an SD or MAF car is? Its the SD or MAF system max out on the eprom by either the MAP sensor or MAF sensor.

If you can't handle the truth...that's your problem...but don't go spurting off gibberish or flaming people WHEN you yourself are doing the very thing that you are accusing people of...NOT READING THEIR ENTIRE POSTS!

 

Glenn, thanks for the info! One problem though- 85-88 2.8's (mine included) use the MAF system, not speed density. Are we still similar to MAF TPI ECM's? I also heard once from the PROM board that with a MAF chip, the MAT only stops EGR action... I wonder if that's true.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Im sorry Glenn I donty think my comments were directed to you Directly. You are making the same points that I am making wexcept for one. I dont think that you really need to reprogram your prom. Its like you think that is the only thing you can do that is a good mod. Everything else is just workign around the "problem". I don't feel that that is the truth. I thin working around the Eprom is part of modifying until you go BIG. It almost seems as if you think there is not a mod worth doing if you don't program a chip for your car.

 

TomP, I cannot answer that regarding MAF cars (what the MAT truly does). With SD cars, there definitely is an effect on the pulse width...but as the stock eprom goes, it is a bad modification. It causes the ecm to overcompensate and far too much fuel. Especially in cooler climates.

It appears the the ecm uses a "delta" calculation where the ecm uses the difference between the MAT and the CTS. If you bypass the TB or relocate the MAT, you are making a large "delta change" which causes the ecm to think your engine is cold. Unfortunately, this adds far more fuel than you really need for the cooler air. Unless you live in a hot climate (and during summer), I would avoid this mod.

KyleF, do as you want, it is not my car...but I WILL make sure others are aware of the facts. The truth is, it is strictly a "cludge" to add more fuel. The problem is, the GM ecm is designed to be rich stock and you are just compounding the problem. So if you want to get your pulse width correct, you have to alter the tables or Injector Flow Constant to adjust for the additional fuel.

It is no different than 10-15 years ago when people thought "larger injectors" was a good mod to get performance on a basically stock engine. Increasing your fuel pressure IS THE SAME as putting on larger injectors.

A basically stock 350 can handle SVO 24# injectors (which at our stock fuel pressure is like 26# injectors), BUT you have to adjust the Injector Flow Constant to compensate for that extra flow. Without doing that you will run too rich. Same with just bumping up your fuel pressure. You've increased the amount of fuel flow in a given period of time that the injector remains open. You have to shorten that period to ensure only the proper amount of fuel gets into the engine.

As for a modded engine that NEEDS to have the fuel pressure bumped up...I would say, that person also has to look at larger injectors and modifying their PROM if there engine is that modded.

I already have said that I am pro "Higher pressure/shorter pulse widths". I like 46-48 psi. TPIS is encouraging people with 350s to bump up their fuel pressure and use 19# injectors. Guess why? Because the higher pressure causes too much fuel with the 22# injectors. So you can buy the 19# injectors from TPIS or alter your eprom (a simple change that takes less the 2 minutes, plus another 3 minutes to burn the eprom).

Is this starting to make sense to you?

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited January 11, 2001).]

 

I understand fully what you are saying and mostly I agree with you. Though I have to say if I had a 350 I would keep my 22# and mod till I needed to increase fuel pressure. This is why with all my mods I am only running 19# injectors, but have my pressure set @ 46psi and it runs great

------------------
86 Trans Am 355 TPI Rebuilt 700R4 with Corvette servo, modified valve body, and a B&M Torque Converter (2000 rpm stall w/ lock up), 87 350 block bored .30 with new crank, bearings, rings, and magnafluxed rods. Reworked 305 heads with 3-angle valve job. Added in the rebuild was an SLP TPI cam, BBK 58mm Throttle Body,SVO 24# injectors,MSD 6A, Hypertech Power Coil, 1.5 Crane roller tipped rocker arms, SLP Intake Runners and Port matching in upper intake including fully ported plenum, TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator @ 46psi, Hooker shorty style headers w/ Thermotech heat wrapping, Custom 3” exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and chrome quad tips, Hypertech Thermomaster Computer chip, K&N open element cone filter on modified MAF per TPIS specs, MSD Wires, removal of A/C hardware and a 1LE firewall cover installed. Also there has been a PST front suspension kit with Hotchkis strut tower brace
http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Garage/9548/kyle.html

Kills:
95 Talon TSI, 96 Probe GT, 91 T/A L98, 89 RS, 86 Mustang GT, 88 Mustang LX 5.0, 92 Thunderbird V8. couple or ricers that I think were Civics or Preludes not sure what year, 95 Celica GT-S, 94 Chevy 1/4 ton 350, one of those NASCAR F150's ..... **** on Monkie
SOON TO BE A SUPER CHARGED TURBO WITH NOS ON A 500000 CU. IN engine

 

If that is on your 355 that you are listing in your signature, increasing your fuel pressure to 46 (from assumed 37 that tended to be use in 1986) would make your injectors flow like 21.2# injectors. Those are smaller than the stock 22# and your engine is larger than a stock 305.

Your engine is the exception, not the rule. Imagine doing that with the stock 22# injectors that are on the L98...you would have exactly the very problem I am been saying...too rich.

 

Kyle, do you have any idea how annoying you are? You try to jump in and solve everyone's problems, then someone either adds onto that, or disagrees with you and you totally go off. Then you always bring the subject around to your bird or your escort. Last time I checked, your bird wasn't running so quit talkin shlt about it. Sometimes you need to just chill out and quit griping at people and starting fights. You are one of the most immature people on this board I believe. And I'm sorry, but out of EVERYONE on this entire site, I'd trust Vader, Tom, or Glen above anyone, especially you. And Glen is right about the prom. Anytime you change anything major on your car, it is good to custom burn your prom. Think about it...your prom controls basically everything, if you can get a grasp on how to program it, you're always going to have an engine running at TOP shape, without dodging the problem.
Glen, is there anywhere that I could get a CUSTOM burned prom? I'm thinking about getting one after I change my cam this summer, and I'd like it to be programmed SPECIFICALLY for my car. I mean the aftermarket is OK, and i know the Jet doesn't doo much, but i'd much rather have something made for it. Kinda like handmade Italian shoes vs. Storebought nike's.
Another quick question Glen, how much not counting the equipment for it, does it cost to burn a prom....better question maybe, what's the cost of a blank one?

------------------
92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
98 or 99 Dodge Stratus (tough one, edged out at 40)


Close Calls
94 Grand Am 3.1 V6
92 Cavalier 3.1 V6
01 Porsche 911 Turbo (Had em till first gear)

Mods-Jet Stage 2 Performance Chip, Accel Cap/Rotor, Accel 8.8 MM Wires, Accell Coil, AC Delco Rapidfire Plugs, Dynomax Catback, K&N

AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Overclck:
1) Is this chip for you 3.1 V6 that you currently have in your car or a different engine?

2) If it is for you 3.1 V6, you may find it difficult to get a GOOD chip as most guys are not too familiar with the Volumetric Efficiencies of a V6. Most tuners work off prior experience with engines and certain mods. My fear would be "being the guinea pig". But on the otherhand, they would get you close...but you may find that you STILL need to adjust it yourself to get it "sweet".

3) As to who to recommend...I have to recommend yourself with the assistance of the guys on the PROM Board. Great place to start is on your existing engine AS IS. Fine tune it. That's how you learn and there are PLENTY of great guys on the PROM Board that can help. But, if you are game for that, you can contact Ed Wright or even the guys who wrote TunerCat. I just got an e-mail from them requesting guys willing to write chips to notify them for a database, as TunerCat only sells the Editor to modify the chip, they are not in the business to modify chips themselves. Give it some thought, but I say go for it yourself.

4) As I said one of the earlier posts (somewhere) you V6 guys are VERY LUCKY, in that your ecm (and definition file) is the same as the SD TPI V8s. Now, there aren't that many BINS for the 3.1 V6 out there, but with my setup I can definitely edit them with my TunerCat. The biggest difference in the BINS I can think of between the two is the number of cylinders, displacement and injector flow. As for the spark and VE tables, the V6 being a higher revving engine probably is more efficient with VE occurring at higher revs. ALL TUNEABLE and us SD TPI guys can guide you.

5) Cost ... here is my setup:
i) Xtronics Pocket Programmer-parallel port based - $129
ii) Datarase II UV Eraser (no timer) - $39
iii) TunerCat Editor with 8D TDF file for the SD TPI (and MPI V6) - $69
iv) "Header" to allow me to read/burn directly onto a GM memcal - $4.99
v) 27C256 EPROM (these are the actual chips that you read/write/erase/reburn) - $4.99

Even though I have 4 27C256 eproms, I found it simpler and easier just to erase/re-write directly onto a GM memcal (I picked one up for $40). You STILL need that a memcal because it has the ESC circuitry. So you either have to butcher your existing GM memcal by removing the eprom and soldering a ZIF socket in place to you insert/remove 27C256 eproms onto it. Or if you have a Jet Chip (or SOME ADS chips ... mine didn't have it), they often have the ZIF socket with to allow to pull and replace another eprom.

You can only erase/re-write onto an eprom so many times before the chip becomes unuseable. Its A LOT (unless you pass out one night and forget to remove the eprom from the eraser), but eventually they do become unuseable. At that time, I will probably remove my eprom from my GM memcal, and just solder a ZIF socket so I can put 27C256 eproms in at will. I am currently modifying my ADS chip (its one of those piggy back chips... because ADS is too cheap to put the GM ESC circuitry in... so they let that "flow through" their chip and "intercept" the pins from the carrier to the GM eprom) to put a ZIF socket in place of their eprom itself. I might even try and salvage their eprom and re-write onto it.

If you are interested in considering burning your own eproms...send me an e-mail. I will point you in the right direction. It involves a little investment on your side (maybe 10-20 hours of reading), but it is probably the best investment you can ever make. You will DEFINITELY learn what is REALLY happening inside your engine, be shocked to discovered that some of these "time honored mods" are really bad, and ultimately rewarded with a finely tuned engine...which you can proudly say "And I burnt the chip myself".

Personally, I cannot understand what all the aversion to writing your own eprom is. It is actually very simple too do (its the tuning that takes time...but you learn so much in the process) and DEFINITELY the easiest and cleanest part of working on the car. I am amazed how many people won't give it a second thought to swapping a cam, but are terrified to burn their own eprom. I guarantee that most people can learn how to burn an eprom quicker than it takes to change on cam on a TPI V8. FYI, I can yank out my ECM, pull my eprom, and re-write onto it in less than 10 minutes. (I'm cheating I have 2 memcals...the erasing takes about 20 minutes...so I have a blank waiting).

 

Yes, it would be for my 3.1. I am interested in learning to do it myself, and I may have some $$$ coming soon, but would I as an amateur when it comes to car stuff ( I am computer literate except when it comes to PROGRAMMING ) be able to catch on quickly? Just a quick question...how many people do you have ask you for chips for their cars? I'm at college and it seems like EVERYONE wants a chip. If I catch on, hell, I may make a couple bucks while I'm at it.

------------------
92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
98 or 99 Dodge Stratus (tough one, edged out at 40)


Close Calls
94 Grand Am 3.1 V6
92 Cavalier 3.1 V6
01 Porsche 911 Turbo (Had em till first gear)

Mods-Jet Stage 2 Performance Chip, Accel Cap/Rotor, Accel 8.8 MM Wires, Accell Coil, AC Delco Rapidfire Plugs, Dynomax Catback, K&N

AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Overclk..first, go to the TPI board, there is a similar question as yours and I discussed "How to tune the eprom". Read the post and you will see that it is surprisingly simple, but does involve a lot of time and patience (the tuning)...the eprom burning is the easiest part.

Yes, I do get people asking me to burn eproms for them. But I would rather help them to learn how to do it. I would be a hypercrit to burn someone a "custom eprom" because I know that you REALLY have to play with it to get it "sweet". The GM programming is very broad and it is easy to burn someone a prom that idles good, performs well, etc under a wide variety of conditions. But to "optimize" for a specific elevation, temperature...that requires playing, testing, patience.

The results of an optimized eprom is the best performance you can possibly attain, the best gas mileage and least emissions. I think of it as "free" hp that is just waiting to be unleashed.

Just from the money I am now saving on gas, it more than will pay for all my equipment and software within the first year.

Also, if you are subject to emissions, you can write a "special" eprom to make the engine pass emissions (using tricks like leaning out mixture that they do on carbs, bumping up the idle for a big cam, etc)...sure it may not run the best for performance, but you'll pass emissions. And then when you get home, you can reburn the eprom to make it pollute good like a car should.

 

Also, go to the PROM Board (now one of my favorites). Someone just asked a question of "where to start"? Check my response...that will get you going.

Also, if you go for the same Editor as I use (for 730 ecm guys like us) I prefer TunerCat. You could actually email me your .BIN file and I could help tweak it for you. Then I send it back, and you just burn the sucker. Then you drive...test it... make observations... and do it again...until it as perfect as you are patient.

 

****************

Please NOTE! I'm just bumping this back up to the top so it doesn't get deleted due to age!!

If someone has a question about an AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator), PLEASE start a new message about it!!

I went back to search for this message and there was a lot more useful information in it then I remembered. I'd hate to see it get erased automatically just because it's so old.

Thanks!

****************

 

Glenn91L98GTA, can you send me a copy of a bin for a 730 ecm...v6. i have the burning equipment but i cannot figure anything out, cannot read anything correctly either. if you could help....i would greatly appreciate it! i have a HIGHLY modde 3.1. if you do any tuning to one, please no more timing....i have about 10.75:1 compression and get some spark knock running 12* timing. thanks for any help.

 

back to the ? of afpr holley makes one for our v6 im not sure on the part # but i believe it is the same as v8 also holley makes us a aftermarket high flow fuel pump.... both of these cost in the upper 150.00 i have both of these they are up north in storage with my car.. otherwise i would give u the part # i got them from summit........... they also sell it with the fp gauge!


GLEN i have a ? i upped my injectors from 15lbs to 17lbs
accels.. i have a jet stage II chip in there now. are they doing any more good than the 15lbs ones i had in, or is the computer just calling for 15lbs and adjusting itself and compensating for the increased flow? i hope u understand what im trying to say..
i have spent like $6,000 on this car i do want to start burning
my own eprom. just a few mods so u can point me in the right direction
1 2.8 with 3.1 crank bored 0.30
2 hooker super comp headers jet hot coated
3 crane 2030 compu cam
4 1.52 comp magnum roller rockers
alot of other stuff. i did notice that i now have 170 miles on the motor now and im getting like 33mpg on the free way
i figure if i spent all of this cash i might as well burn my own e prom... i have the holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator and holley fuel pump that i havent installed yet along with my jacobs pro street energy pak and ultra coil.. also my nitrous kit 25-75hp
thats not installed yet....

 

Geez, guys... Obviously this message is from January of 2001; and probably won't be seen by Glenn or anyone. I pushed it to the top so we could still use it in our searches, so it's not erased because it's OVER 2 YEARS OLD.

 

What specific car? 1991 F-body 3.1 V6? Auto/Manual? Gear Ratio? Cal or Fed? From that I can tell you the BIN to look for.

I don't have many V6 bins for F-bodies, so I may not be able to help you more than that.

Once we find out what you need, maybe someone on this Board that has the equipment can read one for you.

But please confirm the car you are looking for.

 

sorry, i forgot about that info. 91 camaro, 3.1L, auto, 3.23 gears right now. what's cal or fed? again, its the 730 ecm. thanks!

 

The bin you need is AZTY

The Board does not allow downloads of BINs anymore.

go to www.diy-efi.org and search for AZTY in the 1227730 directory.