Oooook...... I'm confused. I have now discovered a major complication, due to the design of the 60-degree V6. The intake gaskets go behind the pushrods. Now. The gaskets (Fel-Pro), say "Do not cut". Well, the Chilton's manual says, "Certain GM gaskets will need to be cut to position them behind the pushrods." And the Hayne's manual illustrates where to cut them. On the top of the gasket, in the middle of each hole (someone should know what I'm talking about...). BUT, the gaskets say "Do not cut". HELP! Can I cut them safely? Use a little RTV? Or do I need to take off the rocker arms and pull out the pushrods (I really don't want to...) Thanks for the help....

Forgot something..... my distributor's rusted too.... got a good quick fix? 1500 grit sandpaper? Buy a new one (don't have the money though...)? What should I do about that one?

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--'87 Camaro LT --
Currently undergoing a 2.8->3.4 swap.....

[This message has been edited by 87CamaroLT (edited February 22, 2001).]

 

Here's the deal with the gaskets. I never understood the "cut the intake gaskets here" deal. (That's for every motor by the way.) I always wondered why the intake gaskets weren't laid in place before the pushrods were! And that's what FelPro wants us to do. Normally, an engine builder will:

1. Install heads
2. Install lifters
3. Install pushrods
4. Install rockers
5. Set rocker lash
6. Put the intake gaskets on.

Felpro wants you to put step 6 before step 3, and to me, it makes sense.

So in your case, what you need to do, is remove the rocker arms. (Keep them labeled as to which cylinder, and which valve (intake/exhaust) they came from!!!) Then, slide the pushrods up & out- and do the same thing- label which one goes where! That's damn important, everything takes a "set" to each other, and if you mix up pushrods and rocker arms, you can accelerate the wear of the pushrods, lifters, and rocker arms.

Okay so you've got the pushrods lifted out? Lay the intake gaskets in place. Now put the pushrods back in exactly where they came from, and put the rocker arms back. Now, set valve lash.

And, uh, where's your distributor rusted? At the extreme top, where the "fingers" go around the reluctor? Yeah, you can use a fine grit paper on that. Use your feeler gauge to make sure the "fingers" are all an even distance from the magnet poles on the reluctor.

I don't know about cutting the FelPro gaskets. Personally I'd do it as FelPro suggests- lay the intake gaskets in before installing the pushrods.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tom is correct (smart guy ).
When I did my swap, I read that, too.
Even the HELMS books says that, too.
What I did was LOOSEN each rocker arm, moved it aside, slipped the gasket around the loose pushrod, rested everything.
NOW..........................
Just take up tension on the pushrod.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SET THE TENSION ON THE PUSHROD, NOW.
Assemble the motor, with the INTAKE MANIFOLD on the engine, NOT THE VALVE COVERS nor THE UPPER & MIDDLE INTAKES.
YOU MUST ADJSUT THE VALVES IN THE CAR!
My buddy, who is real good (I have helped him build cars from scratch (like a AC Cobra kit), could not adjust the valves, correctly, by feel.
We ended up using a spark plug screw in compression tester in each cylinder to get equal pressure in each cylinder. I got 175-200 across all 6 cylinders.
When that mission is done, then attach valve cover, then middle and upper intake, then air inlet piece to the front.
Don't forget new thermostat and gasket.
Make sure you make a distributor hold down assembly, as I did.
Get new nut and bolt to fit back there. Chop off head of new nut, slip in distributor, insert new "headless nut", slip over hold down and then attach new nut.
Use a Chevy small block distributor gasket, with a film of RTV black on both sides.
I tried adjusting valves with engine outta car.
I wasted a whole day, plus $$$ for new gaskets. And I was
Let me save you money & time.
One extra crank on the valves equaled no pressure at all in the cylinder. The 3.4 valves are REAL TOUCHY. Why not.
This is why I had to do it this way.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Thermostat gasket! Ha! Thanks, I completely forgot about that one for the swap I'll be doing! (Good thing it's around $1!)


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tom?
You're not so smart after all? LOL !
Incidentially, these engines are just like the Ford FE series.
I've helped a friend build Big Block Fords. He was very pleased I loosened each rocker & slipped the gasket over the pushrod.
I learned that from working with him with the Ford engines.
And that was why I mentioned do not be concerned about pushrods and location in engine.
As long as the push rod is clear, it's not a problem.
LIFTERS TO CAM Yep! Must be exact location as previous or just get new lifters.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA