evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

well i got my engine running today do i need to tie the loose ends. one of those are vacum lines. i need to know where every line is and what it goes too. i took out the EGR and cruise so i know i need to plug those lines but what other line runs to that black canister near the coil? also on the black long block box on the firewall i have an extra plug that i can find a hose too. i need help or pictures. also wheres the hvac line?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

bumb

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Now you know I've posted my vac diagram here and linked to it on my CarDomain page I can't even tell you how many times...

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

but that doesnt point out ALL the vacum lines. i need to know where i can take the vacumn lines out since i took out the EGR. currently the only vacum lines i have hooked up are the brake booster and part of the HVAC. i had a T comeing off that and i need to know where it goes. currently i have it plugged

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

ok. i have the brake booster hooked up, the little T on the back of the plenum but i couldnt figure out where the other line ran to on the passenger side so i plugged it till i figure out. i took out my EGR and my charcoal canister so i plugged the charcoal cansister fittings so i dont need to hook those up. the EGR vacum on the upper plenum is hooked up and the pipe is blocked off near the Throttle body. so i need to figure out the other lines. i have the old cruise control ball side plugged already and i have a vacum line coming out of the passenger side thats near the coil pack that use to have a T on it that went to the vacum regulator so i need to figure everything else out please. !!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I keep wondering why everyone insists on deleting these things, such as the EGR, that allow the engine to use LESS gas... Sure, it dirties up the intake, but it's not just there for emissions...

Short end of it is that the black box on the firewall is the original factory vacuum tank, which was changed to the black ball under the battery tray the following year. Since you insist on deleting the EGR, you will need to put a bolt into the vacuum block on the TB that the line comes from, since that line connects to both the EGR and the canister only. You will need a reducer for the T in the back of the plenum so you can hook the HVAC up to it. You need to make sure you have the right HVAC line hooked up to the T because if you don't, there won't be any vacuum supply to the control head and you'll only have the defroster working, and the air coming out of the vents will ONLY be hot.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i have hvac hooked back up and all the vents and cold and hot work. now my last question is the vacum regualtor. i know the top line of it went to the EGR so i need to plug it, but whats the bottom line and the other top line to go? i was looking at some pictures last night of the engine bay when i first got the car and i noticed that the bottom line goes to a T that goes back to the vacum switch but i dont remember where the other goes. i believe it was to a T that was infront of the passenger side valve cover that ran to the cansiter lines. and i removed my EGR because i couldnt change manifolds to be able to retain the egr since the original manifolds were cracked and the 93 s10 has digital EGR that i didnt want to retain so i just deleted it. and my canister didnt work and was leaking gas so i pulled it aswell

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

okay theses are what i need help with. i deleted the aftermarked ball for the old cruise so now all i have is the tank. i have the top line plugged and i have the bottom plugged and its running to the back of the plenum to the T. i have a small vacum line thats coming out of the firewall near the washer moter that i believe goes to the moter so it can draw out vacum to get the fluid out. my only problem now is the vacum regualtor which is circled. the top line goes to the EGR so i need to plug it, the bottom line i have no clue, i remember now that it came off the regulator into a T that was connected to the vacuum switch that then ran to some other place i cant remember. i believe those are all the vaccum lines correct? or am i missing any? i have a vacuum leak at the back of the intake that i believe is the PCV main valve so i need to fix it.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

also. is there a vaccum line that runs off the coil? theres a small port that looks like something plugs into it near the big 4 plug connector so i need to figure it out.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

First, unless you used the vac line for the FPR off of the 90, there should only be 2 ends on it, one on the FPR and the other in the throttle body. If it has another connection on it, plug it.
Second, hook the vac tank to the other side of the booster T and the HVAC to the other port on the tank.
Third, if you've deleted the EGR valve, then the parts connected to the coil bracket (the vac switch and solenoid for the EGR valve) should be deleted as well, leaving only the coil connected to the bracket. The ECM WILL throw a code 32.
Fourth, as in your other thread, the big black line on the intake is the idle air bypass tube. This was not on the 3.1 in the other car because of a redesign in the TB and upper plenum which eliminated this line, putting the idle bypass air into the plenum instead of directly into the manifold. If it's leaking, more than likely it's the rubber nipples on the ends that are cracked and broken, and they need to be replaced with radiator hose. And, more than likely, the PCV valve hose needs to be replaced with fuel injection hose AND the valve needs to be sealed to the grommet. However, if the idle air bypass tube itself is leaking, you will need to replace it with radiator hose and PVC pipe parts. I have a pic of mine around somewhere of how I fixed that mess. And, if you've kept the canister and need to replace the idle air pipe, you will also need to hook it up to the vacuum tank as there is no other way to supply it with vacuum.
And last, do check to make sure that you have NEW o-rings on the fuel injectors and that they have been lubed with oil and aren't torn or leaking.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

here i have some pictures on what im talking about. i retained the 2.8s TB rubber peice. only 2 lines. one to the FR and the other is coming out of the firewall to the other plug. hold on i got some pictures today.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

vacuum tank, i took the old cruise out so i also took out the ball that the lines were running too, on the VAC side of that ball that T connector that goes to the back of the plenum was hooked into so when i removed the ball i put that line in the bottom hole of the box

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

second is the T, i didnt remember where the line went off this so i plugged it, any help there?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

and third, i remembered that the top line to this went to the EGR so i plugged it but i dont remember what went to the plug thats facing the firewall so i plugged it aswell. on the bottom line i remembed the vacum switch line ( which is hooked up mainly to the regulator now us to run into a plastic T that had a line that ran to that regualtor then another line that ran infront of the passenger valve cover to somewhere i dont rememeber


i have new O rings on the injectors and they arent leaking, the pipe on the plenum that goes to the PCV isnt leaking, and neither is the PCV valve thats in the valve cover, whats leaking is the main plug that they are all attached too at the back of the intake is leaking or loose and wont fit tight on the nipple.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay, what I would do first is put everything back the way it's supposed to be (according to either the underhood sticker or the pic of mine). When you get done with that, pull the line out of the TB that goes to the EGR valve and canister and delete it and ALL of the EGR parts. This leaves ONLY the ignition coil on the coil bracket, as the other 2 parts are the EGR solenoid (the tube thing with the vac lines attached) and the switch and sensor for the solenoid. Next, connect the HVAC to one port on the vac tank and the other tank port to the back of the plenum opposite the booster. The other HVAC tube stays where it is as it's the vacuum source for the heat control valve by the alternator. Plug the line coming off of the idle air bypass pipe for the canister and leave the rest or you won't have ECM idle control.

Again, take the idle air pipe out and replace the nipple on the bottom of the main T that connects to the intake manifold with a piece of radiator hose.

The HVAC should NOT run off of the TB, but off of the back of the plenum where the line used to run to the cruise control. That's factory, but they had a reducing T in the line that was also a check valve (air passes only one way through the valve and into the engine) that you probably don't have anymore. So you will need a reducer to fit it to the vacuum tank, which will connect to the T in the plenum. The reason my HVAC was run off of the TB was because I didn't have the check valve (broke it ) and I had the 91's FPR line with the constant vacuum source in the middle and had no other way to hook it up (guy that replaced my engine decided to half-bake the vacuum lines and had just about everything done completely wrong even after I had just replaced all of the vac hoses and such according to the sticker and I had a lot to figure out).

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i have an iroc hood so the hood sticker is different. i dont have the hvac hooked up to the throttle body do i? or is that the line that came out of the firewall? if so what line goes to the TB? im gonna leave the sensor hooked up so i dont throw a code so i can avoid that, i have the HVAC hooked up, i took the line, ran it to the bottom nipple of the tank and it goes to the back of the plenum to the T. i have the idle air bypass plugged i think, wasnt that the line that cme down the driver side of the intake to where the charocal canister lines hooked into?


i know right now when i start the car she idles up to 1000 then drops back down and dies right after, it does this if i dont keep my foot on the gas for a few minutes then its fine. again im throwing NO codes, iv let the car run for up to 10 minutes. the car is idling very rough at the moment to the point the cars shaking badly, high idle is at 1000, low idle after a few minutes it between 800 and 500 RPM. im thinking this had to be because the vacuum leaks.

AgentofChaos

I recently took of my intake to replace my valve cover gaskets and a few others while I was at it. I put everything back together but my engine is idling abnormally high now. Around 2000 rpms, but when i press on the throttle and lift off it returns to normal. The only hose in plain sight that's not connected is the line near the back behind the plenum on the passenger side that you mentioned.

I also managed to snap a line that goes into the back of the throttle setup ontop of the intake. The three piece plug that goes into the throttle with two lines going into it, i snapped the far right one on accident. I put some rubber hosing around it but I'm wondering if that'll be enough. I'm a novice and I'm learning as I go so any suggestions or tips would be helpful , thanks!

AgentofChaos

Bump, could I get a link to that diagram as well?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

think i found it, have you ever had one of those nights where you relaxing just thinking and you remember something REALLY importaint?? i did!! when i went to pull that lower plenum off to re run my valves the second time i remembed i tore the lower plenum gasket it several peices. well the biggest was at the back of the engine about where that damn plugs at!!