ok heres my story, iv been slowly trying to get 3.1l bird getting to run perfect, its purrs fine, iv cleaned the injectors, knowing the stock injectors suck, the injector specialist says they run great, nothing wrong with them, iv changed the position senor, idle control valve, spark plugs, spark plug cables, rotor, ignition coil, the little box ( i forgot what its called) that goes under the distributor/ rotor, got all vacuum leaks, Fuel pump is fine. previous owner said he replaced that, iv cleaned the throttle body, fuel lines are clean. im certain theres no problems with receiving fuel.before cleaning my injectors. i was running lean/ had horrible gas millage due to 1 or 2 injectors were clogged up due to cheap gas(previous owner) before my ignition coil and rotor got fried from having a short, it would kick good, would peel out, you know react quick, but the issue before that was the idle, after fixing the idle, the coil fried and i fixed that, got a new one, adjusted the idle and timing, now it purrs fine, my issue is, it doesn't have that reaction anymore, anytime i step on the gas, it seems to hesitate, almost sounds like its getting flooded like a carb. in the mornings when im warming up the engine. ill tab on the peddle lightly and it does a little tremble/ hesitation , its doesn't take off or anything, its real hesitant. and on a cold start to and from work, after it been sitting.while parked, it will jump to 2k rpms then slowly drop to about 800-700 rpms which sounds like a perfect idle, while in drive ill keep the peddle at a steady position. and it goes to 2k rpms. then drops to 1.5krpms for about 3-5 times. till it stays steady on 2k rpms depending on how im stepping on the peddle, i cant seem to think what could be my issue. injectors are clean and i noticed i have been using less gas since cleaning the injectors.
is it possible when my ignition coil and rotor fried, could it have effected my spark plug wires from working properly? spark plugs? maybe the wires have been set wrongly? i heard if they were, it wouldnt start at all. im really frustrated. i just want my bird to run properly. the check engine light has popped up. but i have not gone to get a diagnostic =( please help me out thirdgen. i believe in you. thanks again =)

 

I'm guessing MAF, but nobody can say for sure till you have the engine code its spitting out. But also, especially where sensors and fuel pumps are concerned, just because you replace it, doesn't necessarily rule it out...

 

You can pull the codes from jumping ports 1 and 2 (the only two that are actually beside each other).

 

if you like your codes in morse code, lol, why couldn't they just give it a digital number readout like alarm clocks have.

 

which and where are these ports? with or without a scanner?
thank you=)

 

the ports vary depending on year, you will have to search the boards, and idk what scanner if any can give the code directly, but I know autozone or advance auto can't pull them cause our ECMs are ancient, as for where, the plug underneath the steering column, or that general area anyway.

 

Did you disconnect the battery and reset the ECM yet? If not, the ECM is still assuming you've got the old parts in and is using the fuel/spark tables to match. You'll need to go through the idle relearn process when you're done.

 

i have disconnected the battery before for about 5min. after looking around about ECM resetting i may have to leave it sitting for about 15-30min disconnected. is this possible?
thanks for your feedback guys =)

 

You can leave it disconnected for months if you need to... You're supposed to leave it disconnected for a couple minutes anyways. for "idle relearn" when you're done as that's what you need to do next.

... And there isn't a MAF on a 3.1 car unless a 3.1 has been put into a 2.8 car (guilty ).

 

Huh, thought the 3.1s were MAF as well, personally I prefer MAF to MAP, my camaro has much better throttle response than my gen 2 6/60 or gen 3 6/60 had(I've had a car with each gen 6/60, lol.) I'm sure the engine being built and full exhaust helps, but I attribute some of it to the MAF as well, esp considering its iron headed and more responsive.

 

GenII engines have either the same or a variation of the ECM used on both the V6 and TPI V8 F-bodies, the 1227730 (variation being the weatherproof 1227727 used on the Vette and W-bodies). all of which are MAP/Speed Density based. GenIII, however, uses a mix of both MAP and MAF (in most cases, assuming the OBDII standard), and has the best throttle response due to the ECM knowing both the air mass and density and the relative air pressure both within the engine and atmospheric (ECM gets the base atmosphere pressure in the instants before the engine starts when the MAP senses actual atmospheric pressure).

 

well i reset the EMC three different ways, drove it normally for a while and still no change. and i assume the MAP sensor is working fine. you tell me =P
As for "idle relearn" how exactly does that work. because my 3.1 idles just fine, 1.2 cold start, 7-800 hot. there are alot of occasions when i start it, its jumps to 2k rpms. and slowly comes back down to normal idle. and there are also times. it will fire up on the first crank, and other times i need to give it cranks for about 3-4 seconds. i guess i just gotta put a scanner on her, see whats really going on.

once again, thank you for the feedback

 

Again, for the idle relearn... It gets posted at least a dozen times a month in the various forums...

The engine isn't going to behave until you do this, and you'll need to reset the ECM again before you do this.