Tranny swap won't start
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Ely, IA USA
Tranny swap won't start
This week i did the tranny swap thing and now it won't start. Wont click over, but have power. Do you need to unhook the park switch or does that affect it, if so how do i change. Would i have something to do with not hooking up a neutral safety switch. Would like to get it running soon, Please help 
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Hotter'n Heck, Ar
If the starter will not turn then the neutral switch is the best place to start.
The purple and yellow wires that went to the shifter on the auto MUST be connected for the car to start. To do it right, there should be a connector under the dash with purple and yellow wires on it from the factory in case your car was a manual. This connector should be hooked up to a switch on the clutch pedal so that the car cannot be started w/o pushing in the clutch pedal. If these are hooked up then ignore the wires going to the auto shifter connector.
I am not sure if the connector under the dash only works if there is a manual ECM in or not.
BTW, have you put in the proper ECM chip for a manual or are just going to wing it? The car will be OK with the auto chip in but it will have a strange idle.
Hope this helps!
Dale
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1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
Gutted Cat, No muffler (Sweet Sound)
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
The purple and yellow wires that went to the shifter on the auto MUST be connected for the car to start. To do it right, there should be a connector under the dash with purple and yellow wires on it from the factory in case your car was a manual. This connector should be hooked up to a switch on the clutch pedal so that the car cannot be started w/o pushing in the clutch pedal. If these are hooked up then ignore the wires going to the auto shifter connector.
I am not sure if the connector under the dash only works if there is a manual ECM in or not.
BTW, have you put in the proper ECM chip for a manual or are just going to wing it? The car will be OK with the auto chip in but it will have a strange idle.
Hope this helps!
Dale
------------------
1986 FireBird
2.8L MPFI
Gutted Cat, No muffler (Sweet Sound)
Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: Hotter'n Heck, Ar
I bought the manual chip from GM. I don't know anything about aftermarket chips, if you can specify auto or stick then I think all is good. If the chip is designed for an auto the computer will make the car "hunt" for idle when the clutch pedal is in while driving. No big deal just a little annoying.
I also noticed a change in brake pedal feel between the auto and manual chips. With the auto chip the pedal was hard but with the manual chip, the pedal is kinda spongy. Must have somehing to do with the amount of vacuum to the power brake booster.
Dale
I also noticed a change in brake pedal feel between the auto and manual chips. With the auto chip the pedal was hard but with the manual chip, the pedal is kinda spongy. Must have somehing to do with the amount of vacuum to the power brake booster.
Dale
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Just changing the chip did that? I thought it would've been the slave cylinder running off vacuum, but not the chip... strange, eh?
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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