Anybody found any aftermarket electric water pump options for use with the gen 1 timing cover?

my 3500 is getting pretty warm at stop lights with the stock 2.8 pump, v8 radiator, single electric fan from a 91 305 RS and a 180 T stat. Fan is on an override so it's running all the time. Air dam is in place as well as all the other front end plastic.


Thanks

 

An electric pump will only make your problem worse.

There has to be something else up with your system.

Make sure the heater hoses are plumbed correctly. If they are not, the coolant can literally bypass the rad and be circulated only through the heater core.

Also try advancing your timing. I know on my my, I was able to reduce engine temps by about 10 degrees by adding timing to it.

 

Electric pumps don't work well for street cars...at least to the best of my knowledge. There are several tricks you can use to help with cooling, one being to bypass the hot water going thru the throttle body (I'm assuming you're running MPFI) which really helps, unless you need the heating for the winter. In that case you might rig a coupla valves to route it thru the TB when ya need the heat.

 

I would be shocked if he still has the TB lines, if it were me I would try getting dual fans, and switching to a 170 stat, 160 is too cold and you'll have crap for heat in the winter. I believe there are a lot of universal electric pumps, I recall mezierre I think being one of the better ones for a DD car, but I am guessing you basically can remote mount the pump and gut the stock one or something so that it's just there for the plumbing.

Also there is the chance your tstat might be jamming up on you a bit, maybe not quite opening all the way. As cheap as they are, unless its pretty new I would just start there, swap it out for a 170 and see if that helps, another thing you might try is drilling 3 little holes into it(some have this by default) that allows a little bit of coolant to flow before it opens.
Just out of curiosity why you are running a 2.8 pump? As much as you've done with your motor, and the trouble you went to for a 3500 instead of a hybrid, I am surprised you didn't just use those accessories from it as well, unless you didn't get them with the engine I suppose. But if none of the above suggestions work out, that might be the only option, if its not one of the above, then its a matter of pump capacity vs. engine displacement/size.

 

LOL, Dave definitely does not have TB heater lines.

It's much easier to use the RWD front cover and related parts in a RWD configuration, do to the intake being turned forward. The FWD set-up pulls the belt very close to the engine itself and mounts the alternator high, just above the passenger side rocker cover, the water pump is mount off far to the left and is revers rotation, that would be difficult to get good belt wrap around when installed longitudinally, due to chassis and steering systems getting in the way of idler pulley locations. The Power steering pump, it one were to be used, would be placed right where the TB and throttle neck is when the intake is turned around.

I have seen the FWD belt routing used in RWD swaps, but it's not ideal.

 

Then I stand corrected. I'm relatively new to the 60V6 world, although I had an 83 about 15 years ago and really liked it...until some idjit pulled out in front of it an it was downhill from there.

I've been building/tuning smallblocks for a long time, but I don't have nearly the experience with these things, especially the MPFI. Although the learning curve is real steep, I'm climbin it fast out of necessity. I doubt I'll do an engine swap in mine though, unless it becomes the new race car (to replace the Monte Carlo on the salt flats...then it'll get the 406 outta that car.)

 

Drain the coolant, go back with just water and a couple of bottles of Royal Purple's Purple Ice, or RedLine's Water Wetter.
That'll drop temps.

 

On the Bonneville Salt Flats, the '85-'90 T/A has less drag than any other third gen, if you get it low enough, especially in front, and less than any pre-'89 Monte C, even a lowered Aerocoupe.

 

heater core is bypassed and the idle advance might be something to look at.

With this bin file set up for the auto trans the idle advance is terrible, sits around 3-5 degrees no matter what i do in the tune. I need to go through the $A1 disassembly again and find the rest of the un-mapped idle SA modifier tables. In manual trans mode it idled with around 20 degrees of advance. I never had a problem with the smaller Jbody radiator.

I took it out on the highway yesterday and it did great and actually wasn't too bad in town, it crept up to around 210.


Since the Megashifter doesn't have the provisions for a 3rd switch to use for idle mode i just added in a toggle switch. It acts like a fast idle switch which is turning out to be handy when the temps start creeping up.



as for TB cooler lines, lmao... that would be a lot of plumbing with 6 TB's


I'll dig around this weekend and post up what i find. I do plan on making a proper shroud for the cooling fan, it's a pretty poor design from GM right now.

 

Oh, yeah. Look at the 2 fastest door-slammers on the salt. They're both T/As. McDonald & Pitts and John Rains Helipower. Scary fast.

Jack Rodgers has 2 3rd gen Camaros. One runs in Production, the other in Altered. They run 252 and 254, respectively.

Harris & Wester also run a 3rd Gen Camaro, but it's a little unusual in that it has a 12-port GMC I6 motor. Looks strange.

I have photos of these and many more in my photo coverage of 2010 Speed Week:
http://www.chevyasylum.com/lsr/bsf2010/sw/Welcome.html and I'll be there in about 2 weeks to do it all over again.

 

no AC rad, air dam, true CIA

my fan never needs to run, unless I sit still at a light or drive through for a while. Once moving I get all the air it needs.

 

The $A1 mask is screwy. But you found the problem, need to get some timing back in there when at idle.

RBob.

 

Got it to sit around 10 degrees advance at idle, it's being really stubborn and doesn't want to go any higher. I can manually adjust the crank trigger but that's a pain.

It pulls a hair less vacuum (down to 5" @ 900 RPM) but idle quality has improved. i iet it idle for about 20 minutes outside in the sun and it never went above 190.

 

It shouldn't go below 10* anyway. Base timing without the bypass wire connected should see 10* at the crank at idle.

Sounds like you may need to advance your crank sensor.

 

I should get a timing light... lol

 

Yep, just don't get a dial back timing light, they don't like waste spark ignitions.

Just get that cheap, trigger pull single strobe flash timing light.

 

You can mod your water pump like that 660 Chevy power book says...

Wierd that you have a problem though, mine works well with the stock pump, keeps my motor cool and I have an intercooler blocking the rad.

 

It could just be the pump i'm using, it's the one from mockup that probably has a ton of miles on it. it was in good shape though.