well i cannot find the fuel pump fuse, i heard its near the car battery and if i take it off ill kill the comp as well so the car wont even start, yesterday i said screw it, it cant be that pressurized.... so me and my homie decided to just remove it while its still pressurized... well the second i loosend the fuel filter on the car " it looked like it hasn't been changed since the car was bought" gasoline started spraying everywhere. i figured this would happen but the weird part was it was making a deep ugh ugh ugh noise and the gas just kept coming out after about 1/2 a gallon or less fell out i decided to screw it back on and leave it there till i got some help from you guys.

what the hell can i do to depressurize my fuel pump?????? i really want to change the filter because it's mega old. some one tell me in detail what to do please thanks.

will i even feel a difference changing the fuel filter?

[This message has been edited by 87_Camaro (edited August 28, 2001).]

 

Get under the car. On the body of the car right in front of the differential there should be a wiring harness plugged into a plug. Unplug that connection and start the car, it should run for 5-30 seconds and die.

If your current fuel filter is clogged or extremely dirty then the car may run better and get better gas mileage. But in all reality you probably won't feel any difference when you accellerate.

 

i did mine last month on my 'bird. its was pretty simple. there is a fuse on the fuse box under the steering column for the fuel pump, i dunno why it would be near the battery? you'll know you have the right one when you put the key to the on position and you don't hear the fuel pump hum for a couple seconds. once you know you have the right fuse try starting the car. what this should do is get as much gas as it can out of the lines. since the pump isn't working it should technically depressurize. do this maybe 5-7 times. if the car starts let it die and then do it another 3-4 times. i think you get the point. then, go down to your fuel pump and attempt to take it off. you will still get some fuel coming out. i got enough to cover the bottom of and oil catch pan. but it shouldn't be as bad as the last time you tried. just unscrew them slowly. then once it stops squirting you just put in the new one. ahhh, the smell of gas. and you should be all set....

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1990 Firebird 3.1
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- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I.
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona (stick), 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1997ish Ford Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee (don't ask why they are all SUVs...who the hell knows?)

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd)

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

awesome thanks, im going to try that later today, does anyone else have any opinions?



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1987 V6 2.8 MPFI Camaro SC, get more info and more pics of my ride by clicking here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4760

 

Drew's got the best method; I haven't found a fuel pump fuse on my car, either. (Besides the fuel pump/ECM fuse under the hood, that is.) There's none in my fuse panel.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

really....i don't remember which i pulled but i did have one on my fuse panel...wierd. if i have time later i'll try and take a look and see which it was...

 

please do, i looked all over my fuse box and i did not find it. i know im not the only one

 

i hooked up a fuel cutoff switch under my dash. its really concealed back behind the radio. its really great when i changed mine. also stops anyone form going more than 10 feet if they try stealing it.

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1988 Camaro
2.8 with T5
K&N
Soon to be CAI or Ram Air...
http://www.nothingssafe.com

 

The fuel pump wiring is redundant. For that reason you can pull the fuse and crank the car for a few seconds and it'll start. The car is setup to bypass the fuel pump relay as soon as the oil pressure reaches a certain point. Unplugging the harness under the car disconnects the fuel pump, 100% fool proof.

 

btw, my Iroc ran for 15 minutes before I shut it off with the fuel pump fuse pulled. With the harness unplugged (which was easier to get at then trying to get under the dash) it ran for 30 seconds-a minute tops.

Another option is just to press the shrader valve on the fuel rail, but then you have to soak up the gas with a rag, and you're left with a gas soaked rag to dispose of.
No matter what you do some gas will dump when you pull the filter, just be ready with a metal catch can of one kind or another. Plastic is a no no since the gas will eat it. I had the remains of a plastic bowl stuck to my parents driveway for 6 months after changing the pump in my 83.