V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

What mods are left

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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 06:45 PM
  #1  
Graeme'sFirebird's Avatar
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
What mods are left

look in my sig.. im gonna pull the gauge off the hood and mount it in the engine bay, gonna buy a t/a hood with the 2 vents up in front of the hood (stock t/a hood) get it painted (colors? white again?) Then ill have about 300 left... I need some ideas on mods. All my mods are in the sig. Im pretty sure 100 of that is going to new power front 4thgen seats off of someone in my car club, so ill have 200 bucks... MSD adjustable timing contol? Ripper Shifter? Underdrive pulleys?
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 06:54 PM
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
whoops

------------------
1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,
Coming Soon: T/a hood, Painted,Spohn Panhard Bar, 4thgen Front Seats, Cam!, Msd 8.5 wires, Posi (ACCEL IS CRAP)
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 08:38 PM
  #3  
V6camaroman's Avatar
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From: Apex North Carolina
you could get a double roller timing chain.cloyes makes them for our v6's for $91.00 or you could get a b&m shifter or a posi unit with some 3:73's You could get some new sneakers for it. Ive got 255-60-15's on the rear and 215-65-15's on the front. or you can get some air shocks in the rear. those are just some ideas that poped into my head.
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 08:42 PM
  #4  
87_Camaro's Avatar
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From: tucson AZ, USA
hey greames, how many liters i your bird??

i am wonderign this becaus ei have a 2.8 and i really want ot make it haul
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 09:11 PM
  #5  
SAEspinz80's Avatar
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From: New Britain, CT USA
i would say do the pulleys. you have enough mods to really make it worth it i think. i did mine....took all of 80.00 and 10 mins to put in. and i haven't had a problem keeping the battery charged or anything....go for it...

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I.
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Ford Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd)

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 09:19 PM
  #6  
Brian K's Avatar
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From: Orlando,Fl, USA


Crane 2030 Cam
Pan Hard Rod
Poly Urethane Bushings
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 09:25 PM
  #7  
rx7speed's Avatar
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
cam would prolly give some of the best improvements.
then the UD pully would help.
3.73 gears with a LSD rear
put the car on a diet
give you some more when I get home

oh yeah if you ever get the chance on a rebuild get some lighter pistons or take your current ones to a machine shop if they are still usable
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 10:39 PM
  #8  
Graeme'sFirebird's Avatar
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
Yea..i really wanna do a cam..but ive never done one and dont think i have the knowledge to do one.. plus time involved is real long..?

------------------
1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,
Coming Soon: T/a hood, Painted,Spohn Panhard Bar, 4thgen Front Seats, Cam!, Msd 8.5 wires, Posi (ACCEL IS CRAP)
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 11:09 PM
  #9  
ChillPhatCat's Avatar
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From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
I just can't help myself...you should get a hood with the big firebird on it...

When I first showed a friend of mine my car he says "I would have bought a porsche or a miata" (bull****) and then he went on to call it a hick car (mind you he drives the cavalier parked behind my car in the pic on my webpage)... so me and my other friend (who owns an '85 mustang GT) have been working the whole hick angle...

I tend to do funny things to cars... my last ambition was to hot rod out a honda civic wagon, but it crapped out before I dropped the money into it... I was all talk with that project, but I seriously considered lowering it and painting it jet black...

But seriously? I would have to agree with the 3.73 posi rear

------------------
1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Fuzzy dice, Eight-ball shift ****
Check out my ride here $1600!!

First Kill: 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon (1 person vs me with 2 passengers)
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Old Aug 28, 2001 | 11:15 PM
  #10  
Graeme'sFirebird's Avatar
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
I am gonna see how much i can get a 3.73/posi axle for... i think its a better way to go...i want those 3.73's anyways. Thx for the input guys!

------------------
1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,
Coming Soon: T/a hood, Painted,Spohn Panhard Bar, 4thgen Front Seats, Cam!, Msd 8.5 wires, Posi (ACCEL IS CRAP)
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 09:07 PM
  #11  
614Streets's Avatar
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Graeme'sFirebird:
Yea..i really wanna do a cam..but ive never done one and dont think i have the knowledge to do one.. plus time involved is real long..?

</font>
I did a 2030 in my tbi 2.8 in less than a day. Its really not that hard. The worst part for a rookie is setting the valve lash. But its really an easy swap.



------------------
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Old Sep 4, 2001 | 09:50 PM
  #12  
3.1EyeCandy's Avatar
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From: Conroe, TX
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
If you go with the t/a hood (I did on my old bird) there are a few things to watch out for.

A) Don't get an aftermarket...it costs less to buy but costs more in the long run (i.e. the louvers don't completely fit or crack the paint because of improper louver fitment)

B) When you buy a t/a hood, that's what you get...no louvers...no screens. All in all for an aftermarket POS t/a hood with screens and louvers, look into spending about 350 to 400 w/out paint. Even more for a factory piece. You might even consider going with a ramair hood

C) When a bodyshop paints the louvers (they're plastic), they can't bake them so do not put them on your car for about 6 weeks. The plastic in these will expand and crack/flake the paint off of the louvers...not worth it. You're hood temperature will bake these things and expand them enough to crack/flake paint on your new painted hood and the louvers.

just my .02
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Old Sep 5, 2001 | 12:50 AM
  #13  
AntiVTEC's Avatar
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From: Union City, CA
stick wid 3.42's. All your mods should be enough to power your way through without 3.73's. You'll loose some of your top end (and thats where all the fun is) especially if you get the 2030, you really wont need 3.73's.

BTW, what exactly is involved with a cam, cuz i'm planning to do one in january...

------------------
85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro.
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Old Sep 6, 2001 | 11:36 PM
  #14  
Xenodrgn's Avatar
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From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
Cam and underdrive pulleys... ANTIVTEC is right about being able to push through with 3.42's... after that concentrate on keeping that power on the ground... possibly investing on custom headers to get some more flow after that...

------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
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Old Sep 7, 2001 | 02:42 PM
  #15  
TomP's Avatar
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Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
If you're after a quicker 1/4 mile, 3.73's might help you run through the traps at a higher RPM.

Poly sway bar bushings would really help out the handling... it's 14/bar for the end links, and the mounting bushings aren't much more expensive. In fact if you don't want to measure the anti-sway bar diameters, you can just get the end links. Before I did the mounting bushings, I had "just" end-links on and felt a major improvement. You want the energy suspension end-links with a "2 5/8 inch sleeve length". They're a nice, cheap upgrade that you can feel when you drive.

The B&M Ripper shifter sounds good too. You could also buy the $100 SLP torsen-take-off limited slip diff in prep for later.

------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
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