Any opionions on the MSD 6A red box, I want to put one on my Camaro. Looks plug and play except for the battery connection on the + side, is there a power distrobution someplace I can tap into so I don't have to cut anything???

 

The MSD helps alot in gas milage, and also helps in top end. If your car is basically stock, its not gonna do much for you except run a lil smoother and a bump in gas milage.

As for the positive power for the box, just tap it into the output on the alternator.

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si, 94 MR2 non-turbo.

 

The manual for the MSD 6 box says not to go to the alternator; I'm not sure why (and nobody else seems sure, either). You could always go to the starter, though; that's where I hooked my MSD 6AL into. It's a much thicker wire than the one on the back of the alternator, too.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I think the reason is that you don't connect to the alternator is because when you start the car at first there isn't any juice there for the MSD box, also they don't want serges and/or AC current leak off that happens on some older alternators. I'll check the wire digrams but I think you have the right idea, down there on the starter, kind of hard to get to, any more good ideas. I don't like to cut and splice, I like clean installs.

The problem I have is, it likes to miss at idle and I HATE IT, plus it slugish off the line. I have the timing perfectly set a 10 degrees in drive, like the label says, no change, so I think this MSD 6A box is the answer?????

 

But wait, isn't the start ONLY HOT when the key is turned to start because of the starter relay???

 

There's two terminals down there on the starter... one is "B+", the other is "S". "B+" is the big sucker; it goes right to the battery, and also has a few fusable links running to it to power other areas of the car. The "S" terminal is what gets power from your ignition key. When "S" gets +12, it kicks the starter solenoid in, which starts the starter motor spinning. So you'd want to go to the big B+ terminal, not the little S terminal.

Oh and run some sandpaper over those ring terminals while you're under there!

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Thanks, that helps me in not having to sit there and wonder. Will do, when I get my box and harness. I hope it helps.

 

Actually.. theres a power distribution block, passenger side next to the head light mounted to the side of the radiator. Its there.. its small but i had mine connected there.

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1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

BTW: The wire at the back of the alternator is hot when the car is not running. My dad learned that the hard way when his metal watchband shorted the terminal to the alt case. He had the burn to prove it.

Dale

 

I've done that a few times with a ratchet... you want to see me jump?

Oh & remember to disconnect your negative battery cable before working on any alternator cables... it's one of those "good ideas so you don't fry the thing".


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I've had my MSD box connected to the alternator for about 4 years now with no problems. Should I move it just to be safe? The car runs as perfect as it gets.

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si, 94 MR2 non-turbo.

 

When you say runs perfect, did it get rid of ALL the missing at idle.

If it works leave it alone.

My last question is, how does that timing light test go again, where if your timing mark jumps around, how many degrees are you alowed before it's said to be a bad timing chain.