ok, i got a question. im at the point where i have to lower the axle to get the tank out, but my manual says that i have to take the springs off the axle. is it safe to just take them off, or do i need to get some spring compressors? i don't want to go ahead and take them off til i get some input, just in case i die

 

Well... is it a Haynes or Chiltons? They should tell you if it's gonna kill you... They always have a warning for dangerous stuff. But personally, I would just take them off. Make sure you're not supporting the car with the springs you're taking off though...

Edit: The springs aren't compressed that much if at all...

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited October 21, 2001).]

 

Nah, you're not going to get killed. The rear springs are held up differently than the fronts. When you lower the axle down (after disconnecting the lower shock nuts, pushing the shock bolts out of the axle, unhooking the rearmost clip holding the rear brake line to the body, making sure the parking brake cables are out of the way), the springs slowly lose tension. You'll be able to reach up and just pull the springs out.

The fronts are held in a hinged "vee", like a "<". That's why they'll shoot out at people. Even if the rear spring did shoot out (impossible, I've dropped the rear axle down many many MANY times), it'd have no where to go.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

well, i replaced the pump today. the good news is, i now have fuel pressure. the bad news is, i have no spark. i just replaced the rotor a week ago, had the ignition module under the cap checked, and tried a brand new coil, but i just cant seem to catch a break with this car recently. anybody have any ideas where a different spot to look for a no spark problem would be?

 

Ignition modulator. In the car. 4 pin thingy. If no juice there no juice anywhere.

 

where exactly is the ignition modulator?

 

Glad to hear the pump replacement went well! Make sure you check the torque of the axle pieces after a day or two; make sure the nuts/bolts of the panhard rod & brace don't loosen up on you. (That's not a fun ride!) What brand of pump did you get?

The only 4-pin ignition piece I know of in the car is the ignition coil. The ignition module has 8 pins (6 external, 2 internal), the pick-up coil has 2 wires. I guess he meant ignition coil.

You could also try the scientific, high-tech, "wiggle" test. Wiggle all the wires going to the distributor module, then try to start the car. If it starts, you can start tracing the wires for the intermittant one.

Have you tried checking for spark at the coil? (Instead of at a cylinder?) If you unplug the gray connector from your ignition coil, and then turn the key to on, you should see +12 volts at the pink/black wire of the ignition coil. If there's no twelve volts here, somethings wrong at your ignition switch, and you might want to check fuses.

Do you get a service engine soon light when you turn the key to "run" (engine not started)? If not, your comp might've lost power... check the ECM IGN fuse in the fusebox.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

all i can say is make sure you have a good quality (GM) replacement pump. I made the mistake of getting a Advance Auto fuel pump last year, and now and then it'll go to crap on me, it's not easily explainable, but just make sure you get a GOOD pump.

 

That's why I asked... I put a Borg-Warner pump in, back on July 4, 1997. Lucky me had to replace the pump again during August of 2001. I had bought a lifetime-warranty pump, so they gave me this second one for free- I just hope I'm not replacing it again in another 4 years! (The routine is getting old! Haha)


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

i splurged, and spent the extra 10 bucks on the AC Delco. lifetime warranty, genuine GM part. doesn't get any better than that. i checked for spark at the coil. none. and i do get a check engine light. ill go check all the wires tomorrow when i go back over to my car. ill keep you guys updated.

 

well, no fuses blown. i checked the current at the gray connector, and it goes from 0-4 volts in about 6 seconds, back to zero and just keeps doing that. im clueless as to what is going on here.

 

check your ignition module (black plastic between cap and distributor). i replaced mines more than enough times to start doing it blind folded. (actually i was replaceing the whole distributor)

im almost absolutely sure thats it...

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'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

 

no, i dont think its the module. i just had it checked a week ago when it first broke down, and it came out perfect. TomP, does that voltage reading sound like a problem with the ignition switch, or something else?

 

0-4 volts? Was that with the key "on", as in, you see all the lights on the dash, but the engine hasn't been cranked yet? There should be +12 at that wire! That's a "constant"... as long as the key is on, this wire energizes your ignition system. I don't even think the computer has a hand on that pink/black wire... I'm pretty sure it goes right from the ignition switch to the spark coil.

Wait; before I tell you to yank the car apart, let me check my books tonight- it's been a while since I've picked 'em up. The woman works late tonight; I'll hop on the computer when I get home and let you know!



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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Well if you took the Ignition module out and when replacing it you didnt put more of that creame behind it you could have very easyly burnt it up. YOu should have it checked again and then get some of the creame to put behind it before putting it back in.

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89 Trans Am Turbo 3.8L All stock 43,000 miles #1053 of 1555

Past Thirdgen:
86 Trans Am w/ built 355TPI with SLP goodies and too much other stuff to List. One sweet *** car, wish I would have had a good enough Job to pay insurance on three cars so I could keep it, but for a 89 Turbo Trans Am w/ Low miles, I think I made the right choice!

 

what kind of cream are you talking about?

 

Uh-oh...

 

somehow i get the feeling i did something bad. would not pputting that cream on the contact on the bottom of the ignition module fry it? i think im gonna go check it again tonight. but while im up there, what is the name of that cream?

 

THE BEAST LIVES! thanks for all your help, guys. turns out i burnt out the ignition module. put a new one in, fired her up, and took her for a spin. now my only problem is, i have no muffler on it and the exhaust pipe scrapes the ground when i hit a bump or go up a steep hill. ah well, that's what coat hangers are for. thanks again, i couldn't have done it without you guys. and TomP, you are now officially my hero

 

I hope you put the cream on there this time. The new ones usually come with it.
Congratulations... another problem fixed and another F-body back on the road.

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89 Trans Am Turbo 3.8L All stock 43,000 miles #1053 of 1555

Past Thirdgen:
86 Trans Am w/ built 355TPI with SLP goodies and too much other stuff to List. One sweet *** car, wish I would have had a good enough Job to pay insurance on three cars so I could keep it, but for a 89 Turbo Trans Am w/ Low miles, I think I made the right choice!

 

You could accualy use any silicon heat sink goo. Computer guys will now it as monkey-c*m . It's just there to help transfer heat.

 

Cool! Glad to hear the car lives again!

When I did my module, I bought an extra tube of the heat sink grease from Radio Shack. Of course they charged me $3 for the smallest tube I've ever seen in my life!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

no offense intended, but i had a good feeling that it was your ingnition module. glad to hear the bird lives.

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'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*