What else would I need besides a posi rearend to do this swap ? Can these parts be found in the boneyard ? If so how much have you guys paid for them ? Thanx guys
Wayne

 

If you buy a rear axle with drum brakes, you don't have to do anything else. Make sure to replace the body-to-axle brake hose, and it might be a good idea to replace the e-brake cables while you're under there.

If you buy a rear axle with discs, there's more stuff. Try to avoid an 82-83 rear disc axle. Those were the only years of f-bodies that used SAE fittings; 84-2001 use metric fittings. If it's an 82-88, you should take the master cylinder. For all years, take the proportioning valve. Seems in '84, the front-to-rear steel brake line entered the prop valve in the front. Seems after that, the front-to-rear line entered the prop valve from the bottom. When I did the swap, instead of trying to bend my "bottom-entering" brake line to the front, I took the whole front-to-rear brake line from the '84 parts car. If you want to save yourself from that hell, you can also buy a prop valve from GM for your year of car.

If you buy an 84-88 rear disc axle, be prepared to rebuild the rear calipers with GM's recall kit. 89-92 rear calipers are a better design.

Oh- drum brakes = J50. 82-88 discs = J65 option code.

The master cylinder difference was only from 84-88. In 1989, GM used the original "disc/drum" J50 master cylinder for both disc/drum & 4-wheel-disc systems.

There was a service bulletin from GM about the master cylinder differences from 84-88. It was found out on the Suspension board (I forget the guy's name, I'll dig it up). The bulletin said how some customers from 84-88 were complaining about excessive pedal effort with their 4-wheel-disc systems. These weaklings wanted an easier brake pedal.

GM said that the J65 master cylinder was designed to improve pedal "feel" usually desired by performance drivers. They then said that the J50 master cylinder could be installed without problems to give an easier pedal. The master cylinder swap was the hardest part of my job (I bought a rebuilt, tried for a week to bleed it, took it back for another one, and that one worked perfectly), so I'd say, if you don't have to swap the m/c, don't.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited November 08, 2001).]

 

www.powertrax.com

 

Thats fu(kn awesome But I cant get it cus they dont sell them near me , and the company does not sell them to individuals .There is a retailer in Louisiana , but its far away from me ....But thanx anyway .And thanx for your help guys . Wayne

 

I take that back !!! It is near me !!!!! . Right in Baton Rouge , where im at !

 

Ok this maybe a stupid question , but that does not come with the gears does it ? I would have to buy the 3.42s or 2.73s huh ? Wayne

 

no gears w/kit, just gives you posi with gears you already have. prevents "onetirefire"

 

wayne,

the ring and pinion (gearset) shouldnt cost too much i think they go for about $100

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Slayer of the following:
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198? Ford Crown Vic, (no i don't know why he bothered)
1990 Buick LeSabre 3.8
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1991 Z28 Rims with Firestone Firehawks
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