Will be yanking the heads tonight
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Will be yanking the heads tonight
Anything speccial to look out for? Hven't read the haynes yet, but will epxect all exhaust nuts & bolts to be rusted & snap.
Guess I should drain the coolant some too, huh. hope it goes better than the base manifold. Oh yeah, looked into putting the turbo where the A/C compressor was, will only work if turbo is bass ackwards, & I don't mind having exhaust pipes sitting in front of the power steering pump.
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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
turbo has arrived
, but put on hold (4 now)
working on dismantling engine, & finding out what parts I need (and Really want)
Guess I should drain the coolant some too, huh. hope it goes better than the base manifold. Oh yeah, looked into putting the turbo where the A/C compressor was, will only work if turbo is bass ackwards, & I don't mind having exhaust pipes sitting in front of the power steering pump.

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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
turbo has arrived
, but put on hold (4 now)working on dismantling engine, & finding out what parts I need (and Really want)
You might be surprised with the exhaust bolts.When we pulled the heads on my 2.8, every exhaust bolt came out.They looked pretty rough.But they came out.It's not a heard job.I found it kinda fun.But they say I'm wierd.So...good luck and enjoy.
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The next time you think your perfect,try walking on water!
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The next time you think your perfect,try walking on water!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Anyone ever try to put the FWD exhaust manifolds in the f-body. not looking at the car now, but maybe a big sledge hammer will free up some room for the pipe to wrap around the back & BAMM! an awesome way to hook up a turbo. just sniffin some toejam & thinkin....
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird:
Oh yeah, looked into putting the turbo where the A/C compressor was, will only work if turbo is bass ackwards, & I don't mind having exhaust pipes sitting in front of the power steering pump.
</font>
Oh yeah, looked into putting the turbo where the A/C compressor was, will only work if turbo is bass ackwards, & I don't mind having exhaust pipes sitting in front of the power steering pump.
</font>
This adventure isn't mine so I'm just going to let the guys who know what they're talking about do the work. (not a flame, I'm being totally serious) It may come to the point where I'd buy the kit from Camaro_hunter, but otherwise I'm just going to stick to getting my car to run right...
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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
An hour b4 u try and take the bolts out, hit it with a lot of penetrating lube and let it sit.
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1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt
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1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Xenodrgn, not ment to be a hit & didn't notice, the thread got locked.
Although a supercharger would probobly nestle quit fine in that spot, I got the turbo for free, not a supercharger. Oh well, I'll just suck it up & press on.
Although a supercharger would probobly nestle quit fine in that spot, I got the turbo for free, not a supercharger. Oh well, I'll just suck it up & press on.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
There's a few ground screws on the back of the heads... make sure you undo the screws and set 'em aside, otherwise, you won't get the heads off too far! 
Make sure you're using a quality socket on a breaker bar.. don't use a cheap Taiwanese socket set with a little rachet handle, or you'll be stripping bolt heads instead of pulling the motor apart.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

Make sure you're using a quality socket on a breaker bar.. don't use a cheap Taiwanese socket set with a little rachet handle, or you'll be stripping bolt heads instead of pulling the motor apart.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
dam metric bolts, I have the 1/2 socket set for sae, no metric. At least i have the craftsman 30" breaker bar & big ol' ratchet. THEN I couldn't find my hex head sockets to remove the alt bracket (stupid star bolts). Tonight I'm gonna have to clean up the garage (mark all the parts & put out of way) and find all those missing tools.
Wayne,
I stronly suggest that you look for a replacement engine and waste the effort the correct way.
There should be several options in your price range.
What I really mean is that you are deciding/thinking of doing this most of the way (to removing an engine).
Think about what your full effort is worth.
This engine comes apart real easy.
I've done it twice (two different cars).
Find the correct alternative for your effort. This makes a GREAT winter project.
AND you need not worry about blocks freezing. Wait until spring to drive the car!
EITHER WAY, You'll be under the hood of that car, for a long time.
For ease of working and engine access, consider removing the hood. 4 bolts, it's off! 10mm.
You only need 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm. And yes, a star drive set up.
You can do this with only 3/8" set and a pry bar handle or pry bar screwdriver.
When removing bolts, leave them in their hole until ALL are loose.
Then bag them and identify them on the outside of the bag.
BUY KEROSENE for cleaning stuff. Then use brake cleaner for final rinse. Get lots of rags and an OUTSIDE place to throw them out.
This works PERFECT!! Use cheap paint brushes (about 4 for a $1), too.
Think about your options for the effort.
Have fun.
I did.
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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
I stronly suggest that you look for a replacement engine and waste the effort the correct way.
There should be several options in your price range.
What I really mean is that you are deciding/thinking of doing this most of the way (to removing an engine).
Think about what your full effort is worth.
This engine comes apart real easy.
I've done it twice (two different cars).
Find the correct alternative for your effort. This makes a GREAT winter project.
AND you need not worry about blocks freezing. Wait until spring to drive the car!
EITHER WAY, You'll be under the hood of that car, for a long time.
For ease of working and engine access, consider removing the hood. 4 bolts, it's off! 10mm.
You only need 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm. And yes, a star drive set up.
You can do this with only 3/8" set and a pry bar handle or pry bar screwdriver.
When removing bolts, leave them in their hole until ALL are loose.
Then bag them and identify them on the outside of the bag.
BUY KEROSENE for cleaning stuff. Then use brake cleaner for final rinse. Get lots of rags and an OUTSIDE place to throw them out.
This works PERFECT!! Use cheap paint brushes (about 4 for a $1), too.
Think about your options for the effort.
Have fun.
I did.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
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