my timing is at 22 and i need to get it to 10. can anyone tell me how to do this myself?

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I would run 12-14 myself, 10 is too much. 2 short extensions with LOTS OF PLAY a shallow 15MM and alot of work. What I did was got the Distributor wrench for the GM HEI distrib real funky looking thing and welded a 15mm shallow to it, works great.
The wrench has a flat 3-4 inch bottom piece where it has a open socket for the distrib bolt, then goes up a good 10 inches then has a good 6 inch handle.
I got the wrench at sears, had a cheap 15MM shallow lying around so I welded it to the wrench cause it did not quite fit the way I wanted it too.

 

the thing of it is, is that i am having a hard time finding the bolt to loosen the dist. to adjust. also, why would 10 be too much if that is factory spec?

 

I agree with the use of the extensions also a universal works well too. Don't forget to unplug your distrubitor before you set your timming.

 

I have ran 10 deg for about 2 hours before I got sick of the poor response. Mine 92 3.1 just likes to be in the 12-14 zone. The bolt is on the passanger side of the distrib. If you can't see it get a can of degreaser and start hosing.

 

It kinda worries me that your timing is at 22 degrees. You probably have done this, but make sure your timing advance is disabled.
Also, I agree that running at 12 degrees is better than 10, although I have to use 89 octane now.

 

22, hah I run 55deg at 3k rpm. No wonder my car seems to have lack of power.

Isn't the timing supose to be 5degs @idle. Thats what it seaz in the chillton manuel.

 

I use a long extension (10"), a ratchet, a universal (swivel) adapter, and the 15mm socket. To find the hold down bolt, with a cool (and off!) engine, reach down behind the distributor cap, between the distributor and firewall. Feel underneath the distributor for it's shaft; follow the short shaft (an inch or so) until it hits the intake manifold, then you can feel for the hold-down bracket & bolt. It'd be a bit towards the passenger side, at the rear of the engine block, on "top".

It should be 10 degrees stock; it's written on the sticker on the inside of the hood... if you're lucky enough to have the car's original hood! That spec of 5 degrees advance might be for a V8 (or v6) carb'd car...


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited November 12, 2001).]

 

My sticker says 8, and it runs like @ss that way!! The engine heats up wayyyy too fast... I turned my distributor way CC to get it to run right... I went through a few tanks of regular, then advanced it till it knocked when cold, then, backed off a bit and now I run Plus... works great! Screw timing lights!

Oh, and all this was done with the EST not disconnected..., the driving and all was done with it on...

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

[This message has been edited by Xenodrgn (edited November 12, 2001).]

 

Xenodrgn,
You did it, exactly correct.
Timing by ear & engine performance (with testing).
Congrats.


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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

thanks for all the help. i just bought this car and i am trying to get it in good running order. previous owners trashed the poor gal.

 

Just loosen the nut, and twist until the engine sounds smooth.
Tighten.
Drive.
Up hills.
You'll know when ya get it right.
Takes some time to get that "sweet spot"
Don't we know that, guys !
PS
In the end, you MAY really have to bite the bullet and insert a new timing chain.
I've had too and it PAYS WAY BIG RETURN ON THE EFFORT for that job.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Did you ever put the timing light back on it to find out what your "final" base timing is?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Tom, no I never did...

When my timing was orginally set, my friends brother did it (the BMW top of his class tech guy), and he used his light... I never really needed it after that...

I suppose I could still go a couple degrees each way, this is the only flaw I see in my plan. knock retard. I should bypass the thing to do it right... because I may have advanced it too far, and now I'm getting some knock retard which is messing it up. BUT! I may not be, which means dropping a couple degrees might loose me some performance... Tom, what Ohm resistor do i need to bypass it? And where is it located?

Either way, it's not going to be set perfectly until my timing chain is done... it's getting bad...It just has to last me another month :crosses fingers: ... I'm keeping an eye on my oil to make sure the chain doesn't wear through any coolant passages, because then that would really suck. (that happend to my dads Toyota 4 banger PU... original chain + 225,000 miles = wear, and wear it did, right through the water jacket)...

 

If the sticker says 10 deg. BTDC than go with that figure, make sure you disable the timing advance before adjusting or checking the timing. There is no reason to go beyond the factory specs unless you have put a high performance cam in the engine. The timing will automatically advance to what it is designed for. Doing it by ear can get you close but use a timing light or probe to make sure it is right. If you advance your timing too much you will burn up your plugs or even worse eat up a piston.

 

I timed my swap job by ear.
Even with bad MAF unit. Then it was smogged tested (usiing a timing light) by smog guy.
My timing was 10, right on the dot.
IF the car runs right after you "timed by ear", you have the "right" timing for the car, as it sits now, stretched chain and all.
ALL cars loose exact tolerences as "wear" of parts set in.
Oh, when the timing cover goes, it'll look like Niagra Falls. I know. It happened to me.
800-831-0884, Northern Auto Parts.
I paid $50-ish for parts (chain, gaskets, shipping. Not the cover, included in that price, as I didn't need it for this V-6)

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA