Ok I did the cold air intake almost exactly like Brian did but I didnt put mine in the fender and I also used a HKS filter (very good filter). I removed the tray that the old intake box sat on and I just placed the filter over it. I put about 5 coats of gloss black engine paint and about 3 coats of primer and another 3 coats of clear coat. Hoping that this would block some heat. I got a 3"to3" rubber connector and cut the lip off of the tube that goes to the throttle body because the hump that the hose clamp sat on made a weird stance inside the 3"to3" thus blocking air some. So I smoothed the throttle body tube out and stuck it on. Then I turned the tube to where it faced over where the intake was. I cut a PVC pipe (dont know the length. I just cut as I needed) The filter I got measured 3" so I had to figure out a way to connect 3"to3". I could have used another rubber piece but instead I used the PVC version. It worked perfectly! The filter end (3") side fitted inside the PVC. This also lets the air flow better. I cut a 11/16 hole that I got the idea from SAEspinz80. Although mine didnt create the perfect seal I just used some crazy glue and added and added until it made an air tight seal. Let it dry, hooked it up, and took her out. VERY GOOD notice of power. I was very impressed. I also realized that just setting the air temp sensor outside of the intake like I had done for so long limited performance. It didnt get right reading and where you might not think that that little change in temp and speed of the air would change things it does. Not only did I notice that there was more power the shifts now are much much smoother in cold weather. I didnt notice how much difference there was until today though. This is how it went. And no bull **** here. There is this strip of road that from the turn to a speed limit sign I could used to reach 80mph. No more than that. I could red line every single gear but from a dead stop at that turn up to the speed limit sign I could only reach 80mph. So today on my way to school I figured this would be a good test to check out what I really got from this mod. Stopped, launched, had alittle spin but not much, spun 2nd alittle, hooked third and I was pulling HARD, 75mph and still about 20 or so yards to the sign. I got my hopes up and took 4th gear as fast as I could and watched my speedometer as I tore past the sign at 85mph!!!!!! I couldnt believe it and I got so light footed. I am sooooo happy with this mod and I would suggest anyone and everyone on this board to do this. Call my story BS if you want, I wont get mad cause its still hard for ME to believe that I got that much. BTW how much HP is about 5mph in the 1/4? 10hp?

 

I speak for everyone when i demand pictures =)

------------------
1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Coming Up
Hei conversion, Msd digital 6, Stock Cowl Induction Hood, K&N Filter w/ Xtreme Air Lid
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

hahahah.....excellent!! glad to hear it was worth the effort and little extra pocket change to do it yourself. to tell you the truth i did mine sooo long ago that i don't remember the exact gains, but i do remember definately noticing a difference over stock. doing it this way really lets SSOOOO much more air in, but i definately believe you haveing done the mod myself. sorry that the 11/16" was a little large for ya, but glad you got it to seal. but i found it interesting to read that you noticed better performance with the sensor inside the intake rather than hanging out. i never compared, but good to hear your feedback. glad it worked out and enjoy the cheap HP.

you basically tackled it the same way i did. that stupid lip on that ribbed tubing on the TB gets in the way so i ended up hacking off the end of the rubber elbow like you did...and that cool your filter fit inside the PVC, slightly smoother transition....

[This message has been edited by SAEspinz80 (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

I have heard , lets see if i can word this right . I have heard that , damn cant word it right , ok here goes ...example just say , i dont know what you run , but lets just say you run 17.20 .. well If 5 horsepower were added you would then run 17.15 if you added 10 you would run 17.10 ..understand ? Another words , for every 1 hp you add you bring your time down .01 .. Don't hold me to this but im %99 sure thats how it works .......It feels good to do something like that and see such a good improvement huh ? I know when I did my ramair , it felt good knowing I made it faster and it was so simple ....Wayne

 

I WANT THOSE PICTURES!!!

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86 firebird 2.8
K&N replacement filter
modified air box
MSD ignitor
Hooker cat back
GNX style wheels

 

10 hp might knock your times dow a tenth on a very powerful car, because 10 hp on a powerful car snt much. On a 150 hp car lie ours it is alot, so I would expect the 1/4 miles times to drop by .25-.4.

 

i didnt quite understand what u did there,
could u maybe rephrase it,
and how much did it cost u to do the cold air intake,
cuz i really want to make more horses out of my 2.8

 

this is basically what he did.....more or less because of the MAF



it'll run you 15.00 for the rubber elbow and PVC and about 45 for the filter....again if you have a MAF this needs to be modified....this in on a 90 3.1

and i really wanted to "Y" it like CamaoHunter....but need to figure out where i can stick the battery. I want to put it in the trunk...but don't want to have to drill holes into the body. Also, my next step is to enclose the filter(s) with plexiglass....


------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

[This message has been edited by SAEspinz80 (edited December 06, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by SAEspinz80 (edited December 06, 2001).]

 

ok, thnx for the pic , helped alot,
now one more quwstion , how hard was it to do , and is it possible to do it on a 1988
2.8v6

thnx for the help

 

If you move the battery to the trunk place as closr to the passenger wheel as possible. That is your drive wheel and any extra ponds you can put over will help with traction. www,summitracing.com sells battery relocation complete with extra long cables to help you get this done.

 

I mentioned recently about taking out my foglights since they don't work and using them as ram-air intakes, but after looking around in the nose of the car I'm not sure if I'd ever get any decent size hose through all that metal to the filter unless I used 5 or 6 smaller hoses for each side. Might have to find another spot for intake. All these pictures help though.

 

k, one more question , what did u do with all the sensors that are in fromt of the throtle body,( on that tube running to the stock air filters)
i really want to do this, so i need as much input as possible about the time it will take me, tools, precautions etc....

thnx in advance

PS. how much horses do u think it'll up the punky 130 stock once im suposed to be pushing

 

**i recall using a 11/16" paddle bit, but monkie said it was a little large for him but was able to fix it with some adhesive...mine screwed right into the pvc

 

Howd do u remove that sensor in the metal canister that holds the air filter, right behind the left head light. also what number K&N air filter or HKS filter(so i can order one) is that to fit directly to the MAF.

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86 firebird 2.8
K&N replacement filter
modified air box
MSD ignitor
Hooker cat back
GNX style wheels

[This message has been edited by 86BIRD-MY FIRST CAR (edited December 06, 2001).]

 

mine just screwed out....again i have a 3.1 w/o a MAF don't know the differences....i would say if its your only mod about 5hp or so....check my sig for the part# of the filter i used. monkie just did this on his and he has a MAF...not sure what he used...look lower in the posts...we had a pretty good discussion on this about last week

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

so, what u did was just bought the parts and put em on withough a problem,
where did u get em?

 

anywhere you can buy PVC....home depot. your making this way harder than it has to be...

 

doing my cold air setup from stock i noticed more acceleration and the ability to and chirp 2nd much easier