fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok dont laught too much but I wanted to see if anyone could tell me the steps in how to replace the cam in my car. This is where its at right now so all the crap is off the car that needs to be except the timing chain and pull out the old lifters.

I know theres a method to how you remove the chain and mark something??? So that the cam and crank are still in the same rythem as before. Really im have not a clue how to do this and my cam. (should) be here tommorow. I wish i lived closer to delta cams and not 1000 miles away from them.

Thanks a ton and yes I KNOW not to mess the cam bearings up by yanking the cam out. Its just the marking things that I dont know what to do.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

If you look closely on the crank and cam gears you will see a dot on each, near the teeth. Rotate the engine until these dots are pointing at each other. When you install the new cam, align the gear with the dots pointing at each other again. Simple as that.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Awsome!! Thanks a ton.

GTA50

Two thoughts come to mind for me:

1. did you check the cam bearings for wear to make sure they are on spec.

2. use a good assembly oil (I was told Cranes was good but Comp was bad) before you put in the new cam.

I did a full teardown/build and have had over 50,000 km with no problems.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok the cam didnt come today as of yet, but i did remove the old cam timing chain, gears..exc. I felt arround on the car bearings-sleaves. They felt fine, no scuffs or anything, but just a tad bit of copper color showing is some areas(mainly the front bearing) . The cam looked basically like new considering it has 100k miles on it.
Tommorow im re-assembling the ported heads since ill have new valve stem seals.

Anyone know the steps to bolting the rocker back on and how to adjust the valves, once the new cam goes in?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Bump... Tommorow i have to reinstall the valves, springs ,reatainer..exc..

Im sure they make a special tool for this but can I use something more practical to lap the valve and the seats. I already have that lap compound. Just not sure on the best way to lap them with the tools or ideas i have. Thanks!!!

Also how to properly set the valve lash.. .Ive heard bad things about our car manuals and how they can be adjusted to tight and wipe out a new cam/lobes.

The stuff in the search link is just to messy and seems like know one really knows what is right???

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Actually i did find this about the valve lash and priming of the motor before start up.

To adjust the valve lash :
1 . Put cylinder one to TDC (compression stroke)
2 . Adjust one, five and six intake valves
3 . Adjust one, two and three ehxaust valves
4 . Rotate the engine until cylinder four is TDC
5 . Adjust two, three and four intake valves
6 . Adjust four, five and six exhaust valves

To adjust the valve, slowly tighten the locking nut (make sure the pointed side of the nut is up) while you rotate the pushrod in your fingertips. When you feel the slightest resistance stop. Tighten the nut 3/4 turn, I like to go about 5/8's of a turn because more damage is done with them too tight that loose (can always re-tighten if needed).

When locating TDC of either cylinder four or one, make sure the timing mark is at "0" on the compression stroke.

Firing order :
(0) <----distributor
5 6
3 4
1 2
[iiiiiiiiiiiiii] <------radiator



But still am looking for how to lap the valves with out a special tool.. can i just spin them?? Use a low powered drill??

ex-x-fire

When the timing marks are dot to dot, #4 is at tdc, before you put the cover back on rotate them both to the 12 o'clock postion, the install the distbutor w/ the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire.

34blazer

i always lash the valves on the base of the lobe, takes longer but im more confident. to lap the valves go to your local auto parts store or maybe harbor freight and pick up the suction cup tool for lapping valves.

like this one....

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CHkQ8wIwAA#

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

(((When the timing marks are dot to dot, #4 is at tdc, before you put the cover back on rotate them both to the 12 o'clock postion, the install the distbutor w/ the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. )))

When i removed the timing chain the dots on the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket were facing each other and the cylinder #1 was at TDC.



like this one....

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CHkQ8wIwAA#[/quote]

Wow i could make one of those tools easy! Its just a suction cup on a stick....

ex-x-fire

#4 was at tdc too. The cam decides if its on compression stroke.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

OK i understand what your saying. When installing the cam the #1 will have both valves closed right? TDC

ex-x-fire

Yep.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!!

Once I prime the motor with oil, and set the valve lash, get the motor back together, what is the proper procedure to break in the cam? Detailed instructions please, i dont wana wipe the new cam out.

Once i fire the engine up do i immediatly rev the RPMs to 2-3K??? Even though the motor is cold?? I know im suppose rev the motor from 2-3k Rpms for about 20 minuets and focusing on NOT holding the Rpms at a fixed spot.

Any input is great!!!

ex-x-fire

I'd get some of that break in additive for the oil, get a big fan to help blow air through the radiator. I'd also keep a garden hose handy for spraying down the radiator. I like hose funnels that pop into the radiator neck, so you can top it off quick.
Yeah, you got the rpms right, it aids in spashing oil on the the cam to keep it lubed. Don't use synthetic oil to break in a cam. Try to get the timing set quick too.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

What kind of break in additive??

Also how am i suppose to set the timing fast?? Its gonna be 0' base timing from the start. Should I just have another person hold the timing light and look at total timing while its reving?? And leave the dizzy loose so it can be turned easily?

ex-x-fire

Redline makes an additive, you might get the Lucas 10063 additive locally.
You can idle it for a moment to set the timing. Leave the dist. bolt slightly loose so you can still turn it.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks again.. any opinion on what oil # i should initally put in the car when i prime it and then start it?? Then after the 20 min of breaking in the cam remove the oil, then replace with new normal oil.. correct???

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Bump.. another q.

I know that Base timing is set at 10* but what would the difference be if i set it at 12*. Would that really affect the car in a bad way?? Just woundering. I know back in the day.. I use to set it at 14* thinking that it was making the think faster at the track then lowering it to 10* after i left the track.. I had a sweet tool for that horrible spot that dizzy hold down is. But when i look back i really dont know if that even helped my Et's or not.

ex-x-fire

GM was conservitive w/ their timing specs, theres alot of crappy gas out there. You can bump it up to 12* & see how it runs. Listen for spark knock, either run a higher octane fuel or retard the timing. You can pick up a few ponys by advancing the timing.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok thank again. Here are a few new pics of the teardown. I got the valves laped late last night and now just waiting for the cam from delta, which better come one monday and the unbrella valve seals on tuesday morning.

How do those cam bearings look?? I did see there was a little bit of copper color but they are smooth as can be and really its only the front bearing that has any copper color in it. The motor has 107k on it. Can i get away with leaving htem like that till i intend to do a full rebuilt in a few years.



Heres the bearings, the front one.


Heres the old cam.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Another somewhat useless question but am i going to see any lopy idle from the Delta 260 grind cam??? Sure would sound nice to get just a little lope in the sound of the car at idle.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Enough of those dumb q's i was asking.

I got the delta cam today and installed it along with the timing chain, cover, water pump, harmonic balancer, and some other stuff that i could without putting the heads on.

I have to pick up the (right) valve seals tommorow morning and i dont have to work so if im lucky ill get everything back together tommorow. And just mabey ill get to break that cam in tommorow night. Mabey ill get see if that porting work and cam did anything.

ex-x-fire

You've been busy!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea. Just hope that it starts up easily.

I had the dots pointing at each other on the timing gears, after i installed the cam, the #1 cyl. had both valves closed and at TDC.. I hope i got that right because thats the only thing that worries me. I dont wana take the balancer off again and all the other stuff with it.

34blazer

best advice i can offer is to take your time cuz once you start it, it has to be revved right to 2K and if you didnt have enough coolant in the rad(like me lol) it can get messy.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I bet... I do have one (problem).. when i took the dizzy off i marked the thing at the base but now i can only see one mark.. is that a problem or can i just put it back in and turn the rotor to the 7pm area.#1 cylinder?? thanks, as im trying to make sure i know how to get everything right before i attemp to start it and the timing worries me as i know i only have so long to turn the motor over and then only so long to get the timeing close enough to run it for 20 min.

project89

iTrader: (1)

just reset the timing with a timing light at idle but do it fast then bring the motor to 2k rpms.

also check for leaks and such while the motor is running

get urself some rottella-t oil it still has the additives in it for the hyd flat cams.
for added insurance goto ur local gm dealer and get a thing of breaking additive zzdp or whatever they call it.

delta will supply u with a tube of breaking paste as well use it liberially on the base of the lifters and the cam lobes

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I did use that paste and a ton of assembely lube..non-synthetic. On the cam, the lobes and the lifters. I did see it said to get that zzdp stuff on the cam paper work. Ill get that tommrow. Thanks!

34blazer

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2071310

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

AM91Camaro_RS

Yeah, like these guys are saying... get it to fire, set the timing close. A lot of times we'll just get it to where it sounds good, I don't worry about getting it dead on until later. then rev it and run it for a little bit. if you've got someone who can help you that'd be good!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea i got someone who can sit in the car and do the reving and starting. Just long as it sounds ok(idles ok) then ill just leave the timing where it is. Untill after the break in. Thanks everyone for the tips. Its helped me greatly!!!!!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

OK i got the engine back together today although i had a few issues.

First the coolent line that goes into the lower intake manifold is crap and leaks constantly. I knwo someone has had this problem before so i think im going to just bypass that whole tb bypass. I already had the TB lines piped off. Any ideas that would work and not cost a ton of $$ on special fitting??

Also for some reason i am ending up with another vaccum line that i have no idea where it goes. Ill put a pic up in a bit but It comes from in the fuel rail area where all those vaccum lines are t-ed off. I have all the vac. lines on the map sensor, and the 3 on the back of the intake manifold. If you blow in it you can hear the air in the TB and it smells like gas.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Heres some pics of the new cam and the problems with the vaccum line( dont know where it goes.) and lower intake coolent inlet(that leaks like crazy).

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Heres the New cam...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Bump come to think of it i hooked the air pump back up beacaue didnt get a smaller belt yet and i didnt hook anything to it. Was there a small vac. line going to it? Could that be where the vac. line( i dont know where it goes) goes to?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Update. well that vac. line in question went to theair pump... what and idiot i am. It was t-ed off to the FPR and the Air Pump.

But im still having a delema trying to seal up that lower intake manifold up from leaking antifreeze through the t-stat port on the front of it.

I need to fix this so i can fire it up and break that cam in.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

He** yea!! I got the car started, broke in the cam, no leaks anywhere, chainged out the oil and it looked fine!
Took it down the street and back! Feels like its power range is more smooth. Doesnt fall on its face at 4k like it did before. I love the little lope in the idle. Makes it sound sweet! Thanks so much everyone who helped me through this project!!! Ended up setting the timing at 14* base. Doesnt knock at all. I did relearn the comp. after i set the timing.

AM91Camaro_RS

That's awesome, congrats! Now, don't blow it up before you take it back to the track!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I better not!! I do notice the top end gain alot! I drove it one more time this afternoon, just crused it for 5 min again then just floored it at 5mph(the roads were a little wet) but yea. i can definitly feel the dif. Not sure how much Hp was gained, but it seems like it definitly gained the power were i need it. Im sure those ported heads helped alot. But i did have to mount those crappy manifolds back up... anyone got some headers for a decent $$$$$$