Ok so i wanna clean my engine up REALLL good, i got the 3.1 v6. that are the things called inside where you pour the oil into. the cylinders? its a dumb quiestion i know but its at the top of my tounde but i cant remember the word anyone?

 

The valve cover has the opening, the oil ends up in the oil pan.

RBob.

 

im thinking they are the oil valves, because they are under the valve covers.

 

Under the valve covers are the intake/exhaust valves, valve springs, retainers, locks, push rods(which are assembled on the heads)
Then the camshaft and the lifters, the timing chain/gear.
Then the crank, rods, and pistons/rings that attatch to the rods.

Then after all of that is your oil pan/also has the pump in the rear of the blk that has a "rod" attatched to the dizzy.

 

did you ever clean up in there edd? mine is pretty dirty, im thinking of using that seafoam stuff and putting 2/4 in gas and half in oil and the rest through my vaccum hose

 

I did a long time ago, about 10 years ago when I first got the car, but keep in mind I had the engine basically tore down to the block 2 times before. And alot of cleaning can be done when the engines apart.

Seafoam works well, we used something like it at a chevy dealership I worked at before.

We let the brake booster vaccum line pull the stuff into the car upper intake manifold, and it smoked like a chimmny you know the stuff was working then.LOL. But I did my car back in the day when I frist bought it(I bought it at the same dealership)

 

nice, alright so ima get some seafoam and run it through, hopefully it goes good. sucks that the rear main seal is done though, gotta get that fixed 1st, my ONLY problem is i have no way to lift car to fix it. only got ramps

 

Well dont feel bad, ive done all of my work at home on jack stands.

Just research and take your time and do it right the first time. Youll be fine as long as you do that.

 

Removing either trans can be done on ramps with a floor jack, but I recommend lifting the rear and letting the axle hang free to get the rear springs out so that you don't have to fight them to get the torque arm back into the trans insulator, which requires jack stands. Change the fluid in the trans as well, as you're going to want to drain it anyways as the fluid will run all over you the second you drop the driveshaft and the tail of the trans (not to mention it makes the trans lighter to move around). And probably a new clutch while you're under there as if the RMS is leaking, the oil probably got soaked into the clutch plate and has ruined it.

However, are you sure that the main seal is bad and not the distributor o-ring seal? They cause almost the same leak...

 

how would i check?? all i see is that as soon as i turned on the car in the am to warm up a lil and defrost, it started leaking, made a small puddle, i checked it by putting a white board under and that is what i saw, do you guys reccommend the additive? idk if i shuds
because i dont want to waste money on something that might be too ruined to use at this point? either way, i have a feeling its the rear main seal, because RIGHT from the transmission it was leaking from the middle,

 

What Maverick H1L said about the distributor o-ring. They start to leak early in life.

If that isn't it (replace the o-ring first), there are two areas in the rear of the block that can leak. The next on the list is the rear cam cover. The last on the list in the rear main seal.

RBob.

 

Keep in mind that the lowest part of the rear of the block is either the bellhousing or the auto trans torque converter inspection cover. If the dizzy is leaking, the oil will run down around the back of the engine and drip at the lowest point. Easiest way to check is look around the base of the dizzy to see if it's greasy. If it is, the o-ring needs to be replaced.

 

does anyone have pics or anyhting of what i should look for to dint the dizzy, im new but learn fast

 

Oh, you'll know easy enough. If there is a puddle around the dizzy (there is a shallow well in the block on the driver's side of it), there's an oil leak there. And be sure to mark the position of the dizzy rotor on the base plate before you pull the dizzy if you need to, so that you won't have to fight to find the right ignition timing when you put it back.