I just fixed my A/C so have been running it the past week.. When I switch it on, it sometimes takes a little bit before the air ducts change to the dash instead of the floor.. Also, I just noticed that climbing a hill in 5th gear on cruise at 60mph that suddenly the vents dropped out and returned to the floor.. So, I am assuming that I might have a vacuum leak or some other problem.. Anybody experience this before?

I will check the vacuum level this weekend. Does anybody know the normal vacuum levels for the V6 with manual transmission?

Thanks...

 

Well I would look at the vaccum line that is ran into the car to move the vents damper. Those poor hoses get old and brittle. So much that they will leterly fall apart when you start to mess with them. The vac line I believe is coming off the rear of the intake.

I would look for a good 18-22" of hg for a stock car idleing and the vac level should be steady and not fluctuate. Im not sure what the book says about a ideal Vac level, thats just what ive been told in the past.

 

Checked the vac and I have a steady 19 at idle.. Still no idea what causes this unless it is and intermittent vac leak..

 

Mind if I butt in here and ask a question? The vacuum line coming off the intake connects under the dash to the grey on the grey/purple block. The purple one I have no clue where it connects to under the hood. Any help where it connects to? As you said, they do get brittle and mine disintegrated a while back. I'm replacing that line now, but don't know where it goes.

I've had the "blower-motor-only-works-on-1st-and-3rd-position-blowing-out-the-defrost-vents-only" problem for a few years now and am trying to fix all the issues with it, that being one of them.

Oops. The vacuum line coming off the manifold connects to the purple, not grey.
Does the grey one connect to the heater control valve?

 

No problem jumping in there... I don't remember the colors but will try to check that out when I get home tonight.. The vacuum line to the heater control valve is the really long one that runs through the wire loom on the passenger side. The shorter one that connects to the intake runs almost immediately through the firewall on mine.

Every time I have had trouble with my blower quiting on some settings its been the dropping resistor in the air flow path right next to the blower and mounted on the AC housing. Usually though mine always just worked on the high setting and only appeared to work on the low setting as when driving it, outside air was just blowing through without the fan... The high speed setting bypasses the dropping resistor set so is unaffected if the resistor burns out.. Sometimes the resistor legs have shorted together and that causes the blower fuse to burn out...

Hope this helps...

 

Found the thread about the A/C Vacuum Selector valve and how to repair it. When I took my panel apart, mine was broken.. I have repaired it and now the vents work fine and the vacuum leak from that is gone.. I thought this selector valve also controls the heater water bypass valve but I am still not getting any vacuum to it no matter what the A/C heater controls are set to.. There must still be a vacuum leak there somewhere.. Looking for a vacuum diagram.. I think there might be a second valve in the panel that controls the heater water bypass valve.. Back to research.. Need to find the right vacuum diagram that shows the heater control..