Okay guys really dumb question here, is the top half of the EGR valve supposed to be loose, or more like, able to wiggle? I made a quick how it is now, but I just can't remember if it was that way when I put it on last year, or the year before...

The reason I'm asking is it just tripped a code 32 (which would be the EGR), but it was giving me an abnormally high oil pressure reading just before and during the code. Any ideas?

 

No its not suppose to wiggle. Tighten it up if you can.

 

Should be a T20 torx bit, IIRC. Use anti-seize on the bolts so you can get it apart again later (for cleaning it out).

Oil pressure reading has nothing to do with EGR, BTW. Our gauges are known to not be the best in terms of accuracy. The V6 should be at about 70 PSI when cold anyways. I would only worry if the gauge either reads extremely low or off the scale (off scale means bad sender, usually).

 

I found a bad cat on mine like that, not long after I bought the car. My EGR mount had broken off from the manifold because the cat had plugged. I don't know for how long it was plugged, but long enough for the pressure to break the EGR mount.

 

Yeah, your EGR is definitely leaking, and you definitely have some loose or broken bolts. The EGR itself may need to be replaced. I know, in Ohio, salvage yards are not allowed to sell used pollution control devices. That may be a federal law. If it is not and the valve itself needs replaced, then try to snag one from a boneyard. EGRs are NOT cheap!

I had the same problem, with my EGR, when I bought it 3 years ago. I had snapped bolts. The EGR, itself, had to be replaced. I used an EGR, from a '91 Lumina FWD opt "LHO". I haven't had a single problem or trouble code, since. i was also working in a boneyard, at the time. The engine i got that valve off of, had 309,000 miles on it. Car had been scrapped, because the trans finally went bad.

 

I also have a thread titled "Problems in the Engine Bay", for the 2.8L and 3.1L engines. You can find it in the V6 area, here. The oil pressure sending units were also another thing, that had a high failure rate. The best way, to see, if your oil pressure is correct, would be to hook up a manual pressure gauge, and test it. Like Maverick said, 70 psi on a cold start. I would say 40 psi at idle, between 45-55 psi, when operating between 1500-2500rpm. I can go home and get the specs, from a Haynes manual, later, and post what they claim.

 

Thanks everybody, I tightened the torx bolts back down and no more wiggling or codes so it looks good - I'll just have to make sure I check it whenever I do an oil change lol.

Yeah, next time I'll read through the "Problems in the Engine Bay" thread before I post. I was a little panicked, I didn't want to have to replace my new EGR with another new one . And no need for the oil specs, I've got a copy of the service manual (now I just need to learn to use it )