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Got the car ready to roll into the shop, old 305 is already out...
Since I'm in the V6 section....You guys may also appreciate y 3500 swapped 88 Blazer, with a solid front axle that I built, WOT crank trigger. So far a pretty cool little truck, I re-geared the Ford 8.8 rear to 4.88 gears and haven't yet done the front gears, so it gets stuck everywhere right now
thats one of the few things i miss about living back home , engines were dirt cheap , out here they would charge u 800-1k for an 2.8 , an 3500 or 3900 would be all of 1,200-1,400 bucks
thats one of the few things i miss about living back home , engines were dirt cheap , out here they would charge u 800-1k for an 2.8 , an 3500 or 3900 would be all of 1,200-1,400 bucks
Over here in northern ohio it's usually 250-350 for a engine... you gotta pull it out though.
Around where I live (Vancouver Island), wreckers always want top dollar for a good engine. I have to go over to the mainland to get any good deals. Unfortunately that's a $170 ish round trip ferry trip.
First one had around 30 cars in my class, made it to the semi-and the day ended with a rainout. So the 4 of us leftover split the purse, I made 320$ on that one
Weekend after that made it to the final, and lost due to a bad reaction, about another 30 cars. That was 400$
A race in between where I didn't do very well, was cutting poor lights, went 3 rounds i think, no cash.
And last weekend was a a large street car race (150+) street cars, and got a third place, semi-final, good for 100$.
So there, car is real consistent and actually winning races.
I got my gf to drive the car to the last race (about 150 miles away) and the heater core started to leak a bit... Old car problems.
So having a great year for the car. Another race in a couple weekends, then perhaps St Thomas dragway for a small tire shootout in october.
Nice. I'm seriously contemplating a bolt in 6 point for my car, just so I can be legal if *coughwhencough* I go under 11.50.
do yourself a favor , skip the bolt in , and weld it in , just install removable or swingout door bars, hopefully u never need the cage to do its job but if u do u will be glad it wasnt a bolt in bar
do yourself a favor , skip the bolt in , and weld it in , just install removable or swingout door bars, hopefully u never need the cage to do its job but if u do u will be glad it wasnt a bolt in bar
Weld in is not an option, due to insurance. I will need to remove it when I drive on the street (other than back and forth to the track) due to ridiculous insurance laws and stipulations around here.
Believe me, I'd rather weld in a cage, for more than just safety reasons. :/
Weld in is not an option, due to insurance. I will need to remove it when I drive on the street (other than back and forth to the track) due to ridiculous insurance laws and stipulations around here.
Believe me, I'd rather weld in a cage, for more than just safety reasons. :/
ive heard of that before wer eu cant have a cage/rollbar in a street car in certian areas and i never understood it , id much rather have an accident in a car with a bar then one without, specially when it comes to 3rd gens
i get the feeling it would improve the safety of the caged car at the expense of a non-caged vehicle in the event of a 2+ vehicle event.
That's the BS excuse I've heard.
But lets think about that for a bit, what if that same (non-caged) vehicle hits a large much more solid vehicle, say a large full framed truck, the damage to that same non-caged vehicle will likely be similar if not the same as if it had hit a similarly sized vehicle to itself that was caged, so really what's the difference then?
So lets penalize the owners that WANT to make their vehicles safer, just so that IF they were to get in a collision on the street the other vehicle MIGHT suffer less damage. *facepalm*
logic isn't always involved with the creation of laws.
I guess there is also the possibility that you could be modifying structure that is designed to absorb energy via crumpling and would now be stiff enough to cause the occupants to absorb that energy instead..... but in that case, why would rollcages ever exist to begin with, which is why I'm not so convinced of it being the reason.
Well that kinda settles it then. Im gonna clean the 3.4 up and sell it and buy an lz9..
With the Megasquirt I can even make the VVT functional too.
not to hijack but the factory cam is pretty weak.
not sure what year you are going to pick up but I measured a 2009 lgd 3.9 and here are the cam specs. I would seriously recommend a cam swap and ditch the vvt. then you can save money on a MS computer and use a factory gm 7730.
Duration at .050.
Int 194
Exh 195
Lift
Int .272
Exh .286
Cam events @ .050
Int opens 12 ATDC
Int closes 26 ABDC
Exh opens 38 BBDC
Exh closes 23 BTDC
30-40hp is easily achievable with a cam swap from WOT tech
Deciding on swapping to a TH400 with a brake, or maybe re-working my hotside and making real tubular headers. I've also ordered a new air filter and will be locating it out of engine bay heat. The one I was using was a 3.5" tall K&N and it was Way undersized and picking up heated air behind the rad. New one is 9" tall and larger, should do 9XX CFM and be located in the fenderwell area.
I replaced the muffler before I stored it also to a 3.5" ID round Magnaflow I got at a swap meet for cheap. Beats my 3" cherry bomb with louvereD core. My exhaust is 3" so I adapted it for now. I have all the materials to go full 3.5" but unsure if its required.
I also need a new turbo drain line as mine is showing signs of wear / heat damage.
I'd like to pick up a spare engine to play with also, either LZ9 or the smaller 3.5 version.
So all in all just smaller things, I need to decide what I want to do then just do it. I think a trans brake would be the end of my 9bolt rear end though. haha.
I forgot to add that I picked up a cheap vertical / horizontal bandsaw for easy turbo header pipe cutting. Should make building headers a breeze now. The last 2 sets I built were with the ziptie-hacksaw method. Very time consuming. This will also be nice for intake pipes, charge pipes, exh. whatever.
obv not fully assembled yet, but you get the idea.
Are you going to turn it up? Also curious what your plans are for the spare. Youre the guinea pig for the LZ9, pushing the limits lol.
I might. I know it would run 9.99 with a couple more psi and if I left at full boost on a trans brake. I only ran that mid 10 ONE time and I overreved the 1-2 shift on that pass. It was also a horribly prepped surface, but I'm pretty certain I didnt spin so who knows. There's a few HP hiding in my conservative tune as well. I'm happy with the 10.56 for now. I doubt you will see a quicker pass from me in 2016. My plan for the spare is keep it just as a spare in case mine bites it. I have 2 spare sets of bearing spacers now so I can have a spare engine swapped in a couple days and be back on the road. I would likely gap the rings, mls head gaskets, put in my arp head studs and maybe goto arp rod bolts and do a quick port polish on the heads. You know, all the easy things I should have done to my engine but didn't. haha
Also, if i end up re-working my hotside for headers I'll re position my turbo in a more spacious area so I can have room to upgrade to maybe a GT45 ebay turbo or like a nice ballbearing garett or something.
My concerns with the LZ9 is the piston/rod combo. The rods are PM, but don't seem very robust in terms of size, and not sure how long they would hold up to 100hp per hole.
Fitment with a 4" silicone 90. I'll have to redo a piece of charge pipe and re-mount my coolant reservoir someplace else but it should all be worth it to have a correctly sized filter.
I think that my restrictive original filter caused some pre mature wear on my turbos thrust bushing as it had in/out play rather early on. That doesn't usually happen on a genuine Garett turbo. Live and learn I guess.
Would anyone here be interested in my hotside complete ?
I thought I would ask here since I am re-doing mine and instead of hacking the old one apart to use the parts, I would sell it all for the price of parts...
So you would get 2 manifolds, T4 flange and dual wastegates, there's a nice flex in there as well as a 2" vband flange / clamp.
I will also include the turbo, but she needs a comp wheel and a rebuild kit. It's a journal bearing garrett so parts are easy to find.
I would need like 600CND for everything, so that's what like 73.25$ USD. haha
Any interest at all ? I highly doubt it, but whatever the offer is there.
Few updates, I decided to upgrade my turbo and redo the hot-side. 1-5/8" primaries. I may keep the stock lz9 cast manifold on the pass side, as by the looks of it a shorty header wouldn't really flow much better then the stock manifold anyways. I wanted to fix the drivers side though which had a rather sharp 180' bend. Car is still in storage, will have more updates soon.
